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Monte Rosa Traverse itinerary possibilities?

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owenel 16 Aug 2011
Hi,

I'm having trouble understanding the itinerary options for a monte rosa traverse, given the limited info and maps I've found online. What I would like to do is a four day itinerary without back-to-back alpine starts. For example:

day 1: klein matterhorn, climb something easy, overnight in a hut
day 2: easy day (short day, no alpine start), overnight in a hut
day 3: climb to margherita hut, overnight in margherita hut
day 4: climb dufourspitze, back down.

Is such an itinerary possible? If so, which of these days necessarily requires an alpine start?

Thanks!
 jon 16 Aug 2011
In reply to owenel:

You've just described it.

Alpine starts aren't just to upset you... they are to ensure you aren't wallowing around in slush up to you knees in the afternoon heat.
owenel 16 Aug 2011
In reply to jon:

thanks. i don't mind an alpine start (i.e. 12am), i'm just wondering if it's possible to avoid back-to-back alpine starts. also, the itinerary i provided is incomplete in terms of which huts and climbs or routes on each day. those are what i'm trying to identify. another way of asking the question is: how are the various huts situated between klein matterhorn and margherita hut, and what are the possible routes between them?
 jon 16 Aug 2011
In reply to owenel:

None of the days need a start at 12am. 4am is about right. Have you got a map? It doesn't take much to see the itinerary.
1. KM > Ayas
2. Ayas > Castor > Quintino Sella
3. QS > Naso Liskamm > Margherita
4. Marg > Dufour > Zermatt.
 stevev 16 Aug 2011
In reply to owenel: There is swiss online mapping
owenel 16 Aug 2011
In reply to jon:

ah, thank you. that's exactly what i was seeking. i've been using google maps with the terrain view and information on mountwiki.com. i can see where the huts and peaks are (according to google) but it was difficult to ascertain what the recommended routes are between them, just from looking at the map. i'm surprised there isn't a good map of routes for the monte rosa area anywhere on the web. probably due to the fact that i'm searching in english.

thanks.
 stevev 16 Aug 2011
try this swiss map, keep zooming in to get real OS type maps
http://map.schweizmobil.ch/?lang=en
owenel 16 Aug 2011
In reply to stevev:

great, that map shows all the huts and peaks. very useful, thanks.
owenel 16 Aug 2011
it looks like there are some interesting 2-3 day routes to the dufourspitze from the italian side as well.
alwyn 17 Aug 2011
In reply to owenel:
Are you planning on doing this trip solo ?
 MG 17 Aug 2011
In reply to owenel: When you buy maps go for the Swiss ones. They do the bits of Italy near the waterhshed too and are much clearer and more detailed than the Italian ones. Buy the 1:50000 ones as they have virtually the same informaion as the 1:25000 and are cheaper. If you need more of the Italian valleys, go for the Excursionista series not the IGM or IGN maps.
owenel 17 Aug 2011
In reply to alwyn:

hi,

no, i'll be hiring a guide.
owenel 17 Aug 2011
In reply to MG:

great info, thanks!
 MG 17 Aug 2011
In reply to owenel:
> it looks like there are some interesting 2-3 day routes to the dufourspitze from the italian side as well.

Yes there are. Start in either Alagna, Gressoney or Champoluc. Cheaper and quieter than the Swiss side.


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