UKC

How busy does it get on weekends, do you need a matt or are there mattresses?
I guess it gives about 1.5hr-2hrs headstart compared to staying in the hut. Does it get so busy that you might have to turn back and hike all the way back to the hut?

In reply to alps_p: There are mattresses and blankets (and cooking stuff). I was there on a weekend a couple of years ago, and there was only one other group staying there, and plenty of room - though the forecast was a bit dodgy. I'd definitely recommend staying there, if you're doing the Westgrat then you're in for an big day anyway...

In reply to Mike Lewis: sorry no I'm doing the South Ridge. But we're not the fastest climbing team, and I'm worried that we might have to bail out if we set off too late - and I would especially hate bailing before the amazing summit needle!

In reply to alps_p: I haven't done it, so I might be wrong, but I thought the South Ridge was normally done from the main hut, and I'm not sure if you'd save any time by heading from the bivvy hut.

In reply to Mike Lewis: Interesting, thanks. I was under the impression that bivvy hut is 15mins from the start of climbing, while from the hut it's more like 1.5h - 2hrs. But perhaps it's not worth the hassle with melting snow for water, carrying the jetboil, sleeping bags etc. Guardian from the hut told me the same when I called to make a reservation, i.e. south ridge normally done from the hut not the bivvy shelter.
How long do people normally take on the route?