UKC

Over the years my climbing partners have fallen by the wayside and I my current climbing friend only wants to climb winter or alpine routes. I have never been winter climbing before and I need to buy the right gear. He seems to be climbing grade IV/V but has suggested I need full on mountain climbing boots. I need to replace my 4 season walking/scrambling boots and though I could buy a boot that would cover all bases. The two boots I have been looking at are the above mentioned. The advice I need is this: will these boots cut the mustard on Scottish routes or will I wish I had bought a more climbing oriented boot? And if they will do the trick, which is the better boot to buy?

In reply to Little John:

Don't know anything about the Asolo boots so can't really help on those but I have a pair of the Charmoz and all I can say is if you don't suffer from cold feet they are a brilliant boot that I wear for easy winter climbs and summer scrambles.
If you suffer from cold feet you definitely will feel the cold in them hanging about on belays and stuff in a cold Scottish winter.

Good luck with whatever you chose

G

In reply to Little John: I have got the Scarpa charmoz boots and love em for all round boots ie climing Scrambling and walking. I have climbed up to Winter grade II in them. I think a B3 boot would be a better idea especially at higher grades as the Charmoz are only a B2 boot and they are not really a solid scottish winter boot IMO for the Grades your friend does.

In reply to Little John:

Yeah, what they said. I love my Charmozes too, but for summer scrambling and easy winter stuff when it's not too cold. The sole does bend quite a bit, especially at the toe, which is great on rock slabs but not so good front pointing.

In reply to Little John: Well I've got a pair of Asolos, different B3 model but the same last. If they fit you then the Scarpa won't - they are very different fitments. The Asolo have narrow heels and forefoot, the Scarpa are very volumous in comparison.
Have you tried both pairs on yet? If not, then you may have your answer when you do. My Asolos were fine in scotland last winter.

Thanks for the feedback. From what you are all saying I think I need to get two pairs of boot for walking and climbing. Thanks for your help. Now I just need to decide which is best, then which crampons to get and ice axe, and the rest!

In reply to Little John:




IMHO there are boots that you can do both on the market that are worth a look. The Scarpa Jorasses and the La Sportiva trango extreme are both lightweight B3 climbing boots that I would happily winter walk and climb in. I am sure there are more. Or as you say get 2 pairs of boots and 2 sets of crampons!!!

You have a bit of a decision as grade IV and V winter stuff is on the cusp of needing specific climbing crampons and b3 boots.

Please be aware I am pretty much a punter so please take this advice with a pinch of salt.

cheers

G

In reply to Johnny Rowland: What size foot are you. I have a set of Asolo Alpinist GV, the forerunner of the Sherpa in size 45 going cheap. Only used twice if you're interested.

In reply to Gazlynn: Totally right Gaz. One of the lads in my club did the Welsh 3000s in his Sacarpa freneys which are b3 and they are a good winter boot. I have the charmoz but use Scarpa cumbre B3 boot for my winter climbing and they are heavy but bomber but the Jorasses look nice.I seen a guy climing in them last month and he said they where nice boots
Andy