/ NEWS: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner - K2 Success - 8000ers Ticked

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UKC News - on 24 Aug 2011
Gerlinde Kaltebrunner, 3 kbAustrian climber Gerlined Kaltenbrunner has become the first woman to climb all 14 8000 metre peaks without supplementary oxygen.

She summited K2 yesterday (23/08/11) by the difficult north ridge, which has only seen a small number of prevous ascents.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63763

GrahamD - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:

I would have thought without supplementary oxygen would have been part of the thread title ! I opened it thinking good effort, but another self publiscising 'ticker'. Without supplementary O2, and not by trade route (if there can be such a thing on K2)is a much more significant outing.
Mr Fuller on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: Amazing effort, but K2 alone is super impressive. I was under the impression that only one other woman (no idea who) had got up and down K2 alive??
ice.solo - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Mr Fuller:

several women have summitted, tho there is the 'k2 curse' where until recently all women who had either died on the descent or not so long after in other climbing accidents.

plenty of ladies attempt it tho.
Conor1 - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Obviously i can't appreciate the scale of this achievement, but it strikes me as incredible. i hope more details and interviews to follow.
The Scarlet Pimpernel on 24 Aug 2011 - 94-195-177-100.zone9.bethere.co.uk
In reply to UKC News:
The word 'ticked' seems curiously inappropriate for this subject.
In reply to UKC News:

Wow - big news! Awesome. Nice line: http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/images/dbpage.html?id=5049
John Roberts (JR) - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Mr Fuller:

It is a very fine effort. They have been on K2 for ages, I think they arrived mid June, good effort just keeping the psyche up given the iffy weather over there this year.

I might be wrong but I think that there's only one woman still alive who has climbed K2: Edurne Pasaban
alpine.sketches on 24 Aug 2011 - 147.162.59.99 whois?
In reply to JR: Nives Meroi (with Romano Benet on top of K2 in 2006) is still alive and well.
;-)
alan_davies - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: Simply epic effort! Nobody has popped the grit question yet tho......................... :)
Blue Straggler - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Wow - earlier this year I was struggling to find out if more than one woman had summitted Everest without supplementary oxygen (in the light of inaccurate reports about Annelie Pompe's attempt)
Had no idea about Gerlinde. Hugely impressed.
lowersharpnose - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Blue Straggler:

Is Alison Hargreaves the only other woman who has climbed Everest without bottled O2?
Blue Straggler - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to lowersharpnose:

I don't even know that! All I could find out was that Lydia Bradey was the first, not whether anyone had subsequently done so.
chopin-smith - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Absolutely brilliant. The fact that she did it without oxygen makes her the first in my book -- using oxygen is either cheating or just not interesting... either way ascents with oxygen just shouldn't count, just like doping annuls results in other sports.
Milesy - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to chopin-smith:

Away you go. Take high altitude boots, crampons, ice axes, fixed ropes, sherpas, porters and down clothing with you as they are more unnatural than oxygen which we actually need to survive. It is not a sport. It is mountaineering.
Blue Straggler - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to chopin-smith:
> either way ascents with oxygen just shouldn't count, just like doping annuls results in other sports.

I respectfully disagree. What about ascents with: lightweight stoves, breathable clothing, crampons, axes, ropes....? I am being facetious to emphasise a point.
Blue Straggler - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Milesy:

Great minds cross-post :-)
RKernan - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Is she any relation of WWII figure Ernst Kaltenbrunner, out of curiosity?
chopin-smith - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Blue Straggler:
> (In reply to chopin-smith)
> [...]
>
> I respectfully disagree. What about ascents with: lightweight stoves, breathable clothing, crampons, axes, ropes....? I am being facetious to emphasise a point.

The point is that the title of this thread is "Austrian climber Gerlined Kaltenbrunner has become the first woman to climb all 14 8000 metre peaks without supplementary oxygen."
The title is not "Austrian climber Gerlined Kaltenbrunner has become the second woman to climb all 14 8000 metre peaks."

That's because whether or not supplementary oxygen is used is now relevant to all reporting on high-level mountaineering.

To me it means that the woman who was first didn't get to the top off of her own steam. Good for her, but not even vaguely interesting to me, because she may as well have taken steroids, testosterone and EPO for all I care.
Kaltenbrunner, however, did it using her own lungs. So that's fantastic, extremely interesting, and makes her achievement relevant to the future of mountaineering and a great inspiration for women.
My opinion, that's all :)

Milesy - on 24 Aug 2011
I would much rather see the guys who done the technical route of SW Face of Everest with Oxygen than see someone slog up someone elses fixed ropes without.
Milesy - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to chopin-smith:
> Kaltenbrunner, however, did it using her own lungs. So that's fantastic, extremely interesting, and makes her achievement relevant to the future of mountaineering and a great inspiration for women.

Would she have been able to do it using her own lungs while carrying her own gear, fixing her own ropes, and setting her own camps.... i doubt it.
Mr Lopez - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Milesy:
> (In reply to chopin-smith)
> [...]
>
> Would she have been able to do it using her own lungs while carrying her own gear, fixing her own ropes, and setting her own camps.... i doubt it.

As it happens, that's exactly what she did.

Her team was just her and another 3 team mates. They broke the trail, fixed the ropes, and set up the camps. No HA sherpas.

As far as himalayan climbing goes, this is one of the purest ascents around.
Denni on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Milesy:
> (In reply to chopin-smith)
> [...]
>
> Would she have been able to do it using her own lungs while carrying her own gear, fixing her own ropes, and setting her own camps.... i doubt it.


What a ridiculous statement to make.

Typical UKC comment, someone climbs one of the most challenging mountains in the world and all you can do is deride it. Why not go and do it yourself as you told someone else earlier in the thread.
ice.solo - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Milesy:
> (In reply to chopin-smith)
> [...]
>
> Would she have been able to do it using her own lungs while carrying her own gear, fixing her own ropes, and setting her own camps....

for the record: as part of a team she did. the chinese side of k2 doesnt have other options.
they did have 2 HAPs with them who would have gone to maybe camp 4, but the fixing, carrying etc is all shared. HAPs dont do the fixing on k2 as far as i know, maybe only assisting with carrying rope.
recall she had 3 other exceptional climbers with her.

i was with her on the pakistan side last year, and like everyone she did her part of everything, along with climbing to the highest point that year other than freddy who died not far ahead of her.
the HAPS went 'only' to camp 3 tho may have gone higher after to clear camp 4.
Mr Lopez - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez:
> (In reply to Milesy)

> Her team was just her and another 3 team mates.

Actually, not quite correct there. Her husband and a cameraman were also there.
ice.solo - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez:

too right, and both formidable climbers in their own rights. a really good team.
Milesy - on 24 Aug 2011
I concede defeat then. My comment was really just aimed at oxygen attempts not counting rather than her. Caught up in the steam train.
ice.solo - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Milesy:

a little fiery, tho forgivable.

i agree that without supplmentary oxygen is a horse of an entirely different colour.

it really must be restated what an amazing ascent this is: k2, no sup ox, minimal support, chinese side.
fvcking brilliant in every aspect.

add to that its her first attempt on that side (all other attempts were from pakistan).
unlike the baltoro theres no helivac, no BC scene, very little porter support, permits were hard to get.
Conor1 - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Milesy:
'Concede defeat'? In the world of UKC forums, that's a first almost as noteworthy as the OP! Well done to you, sir! Especially as your comments seemed to have been misinterpreted as far more inflammatory than they actually were and then jumped on by a gang of eager finger-pointers.

Besides that, as more details have been posted the achievement just seems to get bigger and bigger. Amazing stuff.
Blue Straggler - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to chopin-smith:

Thanks for clarifying your position and the intent of your comment. Understood.

Damo on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Conor1:
> (In reply to Milesy)
> 'Concede defeat'? In the world of UKC forums, that's a first almost as noteworthy as the OP! Well done to you, sir!

LOL! I know, I had to read that one twice :-)

Actually Milesy's comment, though unfair and incorrect in this case, is pertinent to most of the few people who make O2-less ascents of Everest and other high peaks. They rely on the trodden path, fixed ropes, set camps and indirect security of other 'less pure' Sherpa-powered expedition around them. Makes a huge difference. I think the last oxygenless ascent of Everest with no indirect help from Sherpas might have been Venables in '88?
Rourke - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Denni:
> (
> Typical UKC comment, someone climbs one of the most challenging mountains in the world and all you can do is deride it. Why not go and do it yourself as you told someone else earlier in the thread.

Well said, these threads are always ruined by people trying to belittle achievements from their keyboard

Fantastic achievement and great effort by the whole team, well done

hillman - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: Cecilie Skog has summited K2, in 2008. Still alive.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cecilie_Skog
USBRIT - on 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: Superb ....Sure beats the non stop news of the one finger pull up performers.
punj - on 25 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: Awesome on so many levels! read somewhere that attempts on the south side had been abandoned because of the weather and conditions.

just a point on the 'it dosnt count if oxygen is used' comment above

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerzy_Kukuczka

he used o2 on everest only, but done them in half the time messner done them in, 10 new routes and 4 first winter ascents

almost certain his route on K2(hockey stick gully) hasnt been repeated and proberly never will be

does his 'tick list' not really count?
ice.solo - on 25 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:

more to the point, looks like gerlinde not only summitted but has also made most of the descent, the lads somewhere behind.

http://www.valandre.com/blog/2011/08/24/24-august-2011-team-still-descending-international-k2-expedi...

now lets hope the shaksgam river is behaving itself.
ice.solo - on 25 Aug 2011
In reply to punj:

ive sat and looked up at kukuczkas 'route' for hours. it defies belief.

to my juvenile eye there is no route, he climbed where there isnt one, linking shelves with avalanche gullies and sheer walls. someone was pointing it out (a memeber of gerlindes team as it goes) and it says it all when the description isnt just 'up that gully, across that shute, follow the arete etc'. he was describing features that come and go with the years, subtle lines that make no sense now, a route thats in no way an obvious way to the summit and could only be thought up with extraordinary vision and confidence.
finest route on earth to my mind.

calls to mind the saying: 'talent is the ability to hit a target higher than anyone else. genius is the ability to hit a target no one else can see.'
punj - on 25 Aug 2011
In reply to ice.solo: that must have been brilliant, getting that described while looking up, right there. its the most incredible route on the mountain of mountains. hopefully i'll see it one day as well ;)

maybe messner recognized and named 'the magic line' but 1986 wasnt just tragedy on K2

im going to get his book in the near future, something ive been meaning to read for a while. mainly for that 'line', let alone his other awesome feats

poeticshambles - on 26 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: What about Oh Eun-sun? I thought she was the first woman to climb all the eight thousanders. The Spanish woman led a huge assault to rail-road her from her achievements. Evidence suggests that she made the final climb as people last saw her near the summit. Anywho, Oh Eun-sun gets my vote.

Well done to Kaltenbrunner, though, for her massive achievement. Very impressive.

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