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Anybody lived in New Zealand?

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 dti 29 Aug 2011
Hello!

The Missus and I are moving to New Zealand and have both been offered jobs in two different areas;

Christchurch and Whangarei (Northland). Currently undecided where to go...

Pros of Christchurch: Nearish to Skiing, Castle Hill Bouldering, Southern Alps. Cons: Frequent aftershocks, no very local cragging, weather not as good?

Pros of Whangarei: Warmer, Drier, Some limited climbing nearby, lots of surfing. Cons: Long way from any skiing, mountains.

We like to climb/walk/ski and plan on doing a bit more surfing.

I was just wondering if any of you had any other additions to my pros/cons list and what your suggestion of where to live would be?

Thanks!
Tim Chappell 29 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:

I've been to Christchurch but not to Whangarei. I'd say Christchurch is a very pleasant city. If you like heat, it can get hot there too. And there can be surfing as well.

If you want to be in the sticks, then Whangarei. If you want a decent-sized city to play with, then Christchurch.

If I was making this choice myself, I'd go for Christchurch. But if I'd been to Whangarei, maybe I'd say different.
 Rod Strachan 29 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:

I lived in Christchurch for 4 years and if you're into the hills at all then this is the location to go for. There are currently still earthquake aftershocks but it seems to be quietening down now. I think you might regret going to North Island if you're at all into climbing and the hills.

All the pros you've listed for Christchurch are correct. Nearish to Skiing (1-1.5hr drive), Castle Hill Bouldering (1 hour drive), Southern Alps (1 hour drive to some good hillwalking in Torlesse hills, I think it was about 4-5 hours for Mount Cook), there seems to be a good core of people into kite surfing too. The Port Hills right next to the city are used a lot by outdoor folks for training and recreation (mountain biking, running, etc); there is a small amount of cragging to be done around the Port Hills and the coastline on sea cliffs (it's a bit crumbly but ok). Christchurch weather during the summer tends to be good during the summer but it can change very quickly, sunny and hot (20-35 oC) and occassionally windy (when the 'Norwester' blows); winter is a bit like Scotland.

Christchurch being the biggest city in South Island definitely has it's bonuses as you're still in the 'cosmospolitan' loop.

I hope this helps!

Cheers,
Rod
OP dti 29 Aug 2011
Thanks for the replies!!
 KiwiPrincess 29 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:

I live in NZ I grew up an hour south of Whangarei and it was our big City.
Northland has a large Maori population and will be a good cultural experience. Warm weather, fishing,hunting, beaches a relaxed way of life. Very few climbing opportunities, Some good caving at Waipu though, and lots of tramping/ exploring.
Being quite high unemployment( and low wages), there is social problems that come with that overcrowded households, health issues( we constantly got headlice from kids at school) drugs and Crime.

Christchurch
Well currently the Earthquake after shocks are still quite big and regular. The centre.. therefore bars, museums etc are still closed. Normally it would be more of a City than Whangarei.
Much better for mountain biking, climbing, skiing.(still has surfing)
Cold at winter. Lotss of climbers

I like both but they are a totally different NZ experience. A cruisy beach life or the Southern Mountains an hour away.( can you try and Spring a mix?)
 Joint 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:

I lived in Christchurch for just over a year. Was great. There is lots of local cragging around the Port Hills(easy to get to after work) and it wasnt crumbly? as Rod said.

I'd defo go for that area if you are into he outdoors

Joint
 Banned User 77 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti: Lived in NZ for a year, Wellington. South Island would be better for most things really. That's the NZ we dream of for me.
 ben b 30 Aug 2011
In reply to Joint: Trouble is Chch crags are pretty crumbly now...

I lived in Chch in 2006 and really enjoyed it - had a house up in the Port Hills and ran about 50k a week despite still working full time. Easy to get to skiing, Castle Hill, Arthur's Pass etc. It is settling down somewhat after the last big shake but still too shaky for comfort at present and the city centre is still basically out of bounds. I wouldn't take the family there to live... but some suburbs (the expensive, western ones) are almost untouched whilst the poorer eastern suburbs are devastated.

Like all big centres Chch had a pretty sleazy underworld but it was very rarely apparent day-to-day. Goodness knows where that's gone...

What work were you going for?

b


 KiwiPrincess 30 Aug 2011
In reply to Joint:
Port hills are unstable due to Earthquake and Closed to climbing. The situation will probably be fairly long term as there has een a huge amount of rockfall and those area's threatening residential areas will be sorted first( if possible)
OP dti 30 Aug 2011
Again thank you for all the advice:- We are both doctors so work will be hospital based.

Has anybody been to Christchurch recently? Given that the hospital and climbing wall seem to be pretty central is it as bad as we hear?

OP dti 30 Aug 2011
when I say bad, are a lot of businesses/bars/amenities still closed?
 ben b 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti: Hospital wise I'd go for Chch Public over Whangarei - what specialty and grade are you looking at? Have a look at the drs.net Aus/NZ work forum and cross post there. PM me if you want - I was a reg there in 06 but still know a good number of folk there. Top floor of riverside block still shakes like a tree in the wind whenever there's an aftershock and the med school is still unsafe so there are issues you need to know about.
HTH
b
 ben b 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:
> when I say bad, are a lot of businesses/bars/amenities still closed?
yep. Unless they have managed to move to one of the malls then pretty much everything in the town centre is shut and will be for a long time yet.
b
 KiwiPrincess 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:

The climbing wall- Roxx is still open there. It is shut for checks after the major after shocks but seems to be opening really fast.

I was there last week for 1.5 days and Lots of porta loo's and wavy roads in the eastern suburbs.
Town Centre is closed and one way system is hard to navigate with Road closures and roadworks.

Park had domes up for some event but lots of places seemed closed other than the malls and centres to the west which seem like nothing has happened. I wouldn't expect a thriving social scene when some people haven't had a visit from the insurance assesor 6 months in despite their house being uninhabitable.

People are parking accesible places, and keeping torches handy still, But for me the shakes were enough to wake you but not enough to get you to move somewhere safe.

Shakes should keep decreasing but can continue for Years.



lisaw 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti: try looking here http://mojozone.co.nz/forum and or asking people who actually live in the towns ie post on this site. My folks live in chc and for them no drama (Harewood - suburb) Have been there 3x since last big shake (6x since 1st, sept 2010 - in fact in chc airport when that occurred) Lots still going on in the city only writing this as my reading of the thread seems overly pesimisstic. Personally for lifestyle would go there in a flash
Cheers
Lisa
 Bobling 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:

As ever with all things NZ Kiwi Princess gives you good info, I remember on our brief tour of the North we could buy a hangi in the local milk bars, a very different vibe. FWIW we have friends who have lived in ChCh for about a decade, they have four young boys and apparently are considering moving for Oz or Ireland (Ireland, WTF?) due to the quake and aftershocks/math. Like IainRUK i was in Wellington and still dream of going back, see here for some nostalgia Ian vimeo.com/27709878
 Graham 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:
I live in NZ - have for 6 years, but I'm a north american ex-pat. I currently live in Palmerston North (on the North Island), but I did spend a year living in Dunedin (South Island). As a climber and a skier - don't even think about going to the North Island. The amount, and variety of climbing and skiing available on the south island far out strips anything there is to offer on the north island. Without (too much) hesitation I'd go to Christchurch. - there was cragging within city limits (mostly gone/off limits now), but castle hill is very close, skiing in Arthur's pass is about an hour and a half away to the good stuff. For longer trips, there's heaps about. If you're at all interested in alpine climbing, the south island is the place to be. The north island is basically one big clear-cut with a few bumps (Taranaki, Ruapehu) sticking up. There is some great rock climbing, but it's still better down south.
davo 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:

Hi

Lived in New Zealand for 3 years, 2 in Auckland and 1 in Christchurch and it was all great.

To me the best bit about living in the North island was the surfing. It was truly brilliant in the summer. Although I didn't live in Whangarei,it is like Auckland in the fact that it is very close to the surf (very close to East Coast beaches). The water is genuinely warm from around Jan to April and the swell on the west coast is excellent. From Whangarei you are maybe a couple of hours from some of the best breaks I have ever seen (up in the Northland). In the winter, there is often swell on the east coast from cyclones up in the north. The west coast is however mostly blown out and unsurfable unless you head up to the points in the north. The countryside up in the north is absolutely amazing but can't say I ever fancied moving to Whangarei myself, it is pretty small and not that great a place itself.

Climbing around Whangarei would be very limited. There is a small bouldering crag near the town and then there are various dubious lumps of volcanic rock knocking around. To be honest if climbing/walking/skiing is more your thing than surfing I would consider strongly the south island. On a last positive note, the summer is very long and warm.

Christchurch was very different but I left before the quakes. Surfing is not as good but the beach is very close. Water is a lot colder and you need a wetsuit year round. (Up in the north island you can ditch the wettie around feb). Climbing is great, the port hills are very close and depending on your climbing grade the cave was a cool sport climbing spot. Castle Hill is an hour away (amazing bouldering). In the winter the skiing is an hour or so away. The city is pretty easy to get out of and into the countryside, not much traffic. Queenstown/Wanaka are about 5-6 hours away and if you don't mind the drive (about 8-10hrs) The Darrans are utterly amazing for walking, climbing and mountaineering. Obviously there is also the southern alps.

Anyway hope all of that was of some help...

Dave
 ben b 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti: You could always come to Dunedin.... surf's good and 3 and a bit hours to Queenstown

Sounds like the question is "are we surfers or climbers first?" Of course you can do both but there will be some compromises on location... definitely SI for climbers (and skiers, and mountaineers)
b
 damowilk 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:
Interested in this thread as also moving to NZ, also as a medic. Before I would have said CCh of your two options, although friends who went to Whangarei for a short period enjoyed it, however as others have said the Earthquakes and high likelihood of further ones have changed things somewhat.

I'm probably going to turn down an offer in CCh and go to Dunedin instead, where I worked for a year some 8 years ago, and really enjoyed although there didn't seem to be a very active climbing scene there, unless you climb hard, and the only wall is not that great.
 ben b 30 Aug 2011
In reply to damowilk: The old woody wall down in town is no more; there is a bouldering room in the old tech college halfway up Stuart St
http://room14.50webs.com/
...which I have never been to <blushes>
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Dunedin-Climbing/208069165814

Paul is looking at wall building, and he works on the 4th floor.... could be your chance!
b

 Graham 30 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:
Dunedin is fantastic and there is a very active climbing scene there. A great town. Close to just about everything worthwhile. The bouldering room is quite good for what it is (not a massive gym, but a group of locals having fun).

Best city in NZ, if you as me.

 damowilk 30 Aug 2011
In reply to Graham:
Hi,
I agree that Dunners is great.
Is there much good climbing nearby at lower grades, say VS-E2 UK?
Liked Mili-Waka(?sp) but had climbed it out at my grade. and wasn't blown away by long beach. Heard some new routing going up on sea cliffs but sounded hard and committing. Is there a mountaineering club or alpine scene that's easy to get involved with?
 Helen R 30 Aug 2011

I don't think i'll be much help here, I deserted Dunedin a couple of years ago for Auckland. I like Auckland (I know, I know, it's just me)and it's where my other half was based and I got a good job offer, so it has made sense for us.

Outdoor stuff is much better (and a lot less sweaty) in the south island. If the outdoors, especially climbing, is the most important thing, then south island it is. I make it down about 4 times a year and it's not enough. If it's more walking or watersports, then north island is pretty good.

If it were 12 months ago, I'd recommend Christchurch, no question. However things are pretty bad there, even tho the news has finished covering it. I know plenty of people who have moved away, or are trying to move away. We had our uni open day at the weekend, and numbers of our potential new students were much higher than expected - as no one wants to go to chch. I was there a few weeks ago and i was pretty shocked - I saw it after the first quake last Sept, but this was the first time i'd visited since Feb. Get the info from ben b - it really will make a difference to your decision.

Good luck. There's good things and bad things about NZ, but on the whole I reckon it's pretty good.

HR
 ben b 30 Aug 2011
In reply to damowilk: Mihiwaka, I think. Try the facebook page above - should have more details.

The local NZAC are pretty active - Paul Prince is your man - there were a few hundred people at the Banff Film Festival screening so plenty of people out there.

b
OP dti 31 Aug 2011
Wow, thanks for all the replies. We are going to have a good long sit down and think - we initially applied to Dunedin but have been told they have filled their quota of UK docs at our level.

Shall have a good long think, either way both very excited!!
 Rourke 31 Aug 2011
In reply to dti:

My brother and his wife (who are also Doctors) lived in Christchurch for a year.

There is definitely some surfing in the area, in Sumner where they lived, but not knowing much about surfing I can't tell how good it is

Have fun, they loved it there
waynowski 01 Sep 2011
In reply to dti:
totally different climates, whangarei is mild all year round, never snows, seldom has a frost, small town. only a few hours drive from auckland.
christchurch has a much shorter summer, much colder in winter, not quite as cold as britain though.
watch nz houses, most arent as warm as british houses. plus there ar e lot of newer leaky homes you ahve to get inspected properly to avoid buying one. so if you're going to chch you really want to be able to get a decent house which are in short supply at the moment.
in chch they are busy tearing down half the city centre and 30,000 houses written off by the earthquakes.
if you like mountains the south island is it though.
not a lot of jobs going in whangarei though if one of you is still looking for work... you chould chance your arm in hwangarei and if it doesnt work out job wise or whatever you can look around for work elsewhre, plenty of jobs in aucklnad and welllington or find something else in chch
 ben b 01 Sep 2011
In reply to waynowski: Good point about the housing. Most SI housing stock is dreadful... uninsulated, single glazed, comes in "tin shed" or "brick fridge" varieties.

Central heating is almost unheard of (well radiators anyway). Some people have pellet burners but mostly open fires and oil column heaters which are very expensive to run. As a minimum I suggest you look for a good 'heat pump' if you are staying S Island. We have an (admittedly quite big) house built in 1885 and it has 2 huge heat pumps, 3 open fires, 2 night store heaters and 3 panel heaters, double insulated curtains and a roof space full of fluff and outside the summer it's a fridge. Alternatively we could just burn the money to keep warm.... and CHch is much colder than Dunedin in winter...
Good luck with that...
b


 Graham 01 Sep 2011
In reply to damowilk:
Yeah, the housing SUCKS in all of NZ - a wet cold that permeates everything. Almost no houses have insulation, and it's often colder inside the house than out. No Shit. +5 in dunedin is way colder than -20 in Canmore. A friend has a house out near Port Chalmers (just up the penninsula from dunedin) that the previous owners had insulated with 10cm thick blocks of styrofoam.
Doctor's point - I think that's what you're thinking about with the sea cliffs has some decent sport climbing. Or maybe Lover's Leaps - basalt columns? Well known for rockfall? I only climbed there once in my year there. None of the climbing around dunedin is a "destination" area, but it's great for a quick couple of routes after work or school. Wanaka, Queenstown,Mt. Somers, the Darrans are all a couple hour's drive away, and have much better climbing.
The Otago section of the NZAC is quite active - a good group to get involved with. The University of Otago also has a active club (OUTC) which probably won't mean much for you except American exchange students that are keen to climb any time.
kiwitele 01 Sep 2011
In reply to dti: Live in Chch. I reckon come summer people will be back biking, climbing on hills irrespective of earthquakes. Despite a few aftershocks this week generally they are dying down (touches wood).
Probably the major impact is the rebuild of the central city. That will take longer than it will take climbers to clean up a few crags or bikers to build a few new tracks.
It's annoying not having a supermarket close. But i still have a couple of local pubs.
OP dti 08 Sep 2011
Thanks for the all replies,

Have just accepted a job in Christchurch so pretty excited!!

Again, thanks for the advice

Dave
 Helen R 08 Sep 2011
In reply to dti:

Congratulations! I'm sure there's lots of people on here (including me) who are happy to help with any questions or advice about moving over here.

Number one: bring all the outdoor gear you can!

Good luck
Helen

OP dti 08 Sep 2011
Thanks!

Once I think of them I'm sure I will.

Am planning on at least a rucksack of climbing gear

Oooh question already: Is a 60m single rope sensible? Or is it worth bringing a set of half ropes?

Thanks again!
 Graham 08 Sep 2011
In reply to dti:
A single 60 will do you fine for just about all the cragging you'll need. The cliffs in NZ tend not to be very high - most routes are less than 30m.
 Graham 08 Sep 2011
In reply to Graham:
It might be worth joining NZ's version of UKClimbing: www.mojozone.co.nz
there's even a thread on it now about moving from the UK to christchurch.
 Rubbishy 08 Sep 2011
In reply to dti:

Out of idle interest I just looked at the LTSS list and pleased to see Surveyor is on there

My ex moved out there a few years ago and lives in Wellington. Apparently it is a fabulous place - especially when you work as a pro yacht racing skipper.

Good luck - I am sure you will love it, as has everyone else I know who has moved there.
Mr Poo 08 Sep 2011
In reply to dti:
I lived in Christchurch for 12 months.
I would go there! you have also rock crags about 10 - 20 min drive upon the port hills and the southern alps is not to far away.

cheers

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