/ NEWS: VIDEO: MacLeod Frees 400m E8 in Norway
No sunbathing for these guys, instead they fight their way up a 400m granite wall with a crux pitch of E8.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63849
Wow! When the camera pans out and you get the scale... what an amazing wall!!
Consistently the most impressive, motivating and entertaining climber. Great stuff
BTW, the wall is named in the guidebook as "Blåmannen", although sometimes Norwegians seem to also call it "Blåmann". Not sure why - perhaps a Norwegian speaker could explain, is it the genitive perhaps? But, anyway, it definitely isn't "Blamman". "å" isn't just an "a" with a squiggle over it, it is a different letter - in Finnish it is called "Swedish o" and it sounds like "oh". I find Norwegian a nightmare to pronounce properly (my climbing partner when I was last on Kvaløya gave up trying to get me to say the island's name properly!), but if you can't find å on your keyboard - it will be there somewhere - I suspect Blomann is closer to the mountains name in Norwegian.
Kvaløya is a magic place that should be better known, but if you go respect it! http://www.slouppi.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4277
I think it's somewhere between 'oh' and 'or'. For instance, Pål is a common Norwegian name which seems to be pronounced pretty much like Paul.
I mean, runing a competition to find two chicks to go climbing with - that's the way forward!
The name in Norwegian is "Blåmann", meaning the "blue man". With definite article it is "Blåmannen", meaning "the blue man". As mentioned here the letter å is pronouned like the au in Paul.
That's immense, in both senses of the word!
Nice on Dave.
It couldn't have been done or filmed by any nicer guys.
Also on Store Blåmann: Andreas Klarström, Erik Grandelius and Martin Skaar Olslund repeated "Arctandria" (8a+ R) in great style (2nd repeat/3rd free ascent over all). Andreas Klarström stayed in Tromsø this summer and worked the first two pitches (including the second crutch pitch which goes at 8a+ with bird-beaks and micro-nuts for pro) by himself.
Erik Grandelius and Martin Skaar Olslund flew in to Tromsø, touched down at 11 PM, got picked up by Andreas and then they went straight up to Båmann (40 min in car + 2 h approach) and free climbed the whole route in a single push through the night with Andreas leading the first two pitches. Erik Grandelius followed free (all onsight) and onsighted all his pitches (up to 8a according to topo, but they feel the roof pitch was much easier than the 8a given in topo, maybe 7c or so). I don't know exactly the style Martin climbed in (other than that he did it free, since I've only talked with Erik).
Dave is doing so much mind blowing stuff. That wall looks incredible. Great effort.
I'm not sure I understand the grades. The crux is E8. The pitches are given French(?) grades. The wall is in Norway. Is the route trad? Is the gear fixed? Help.
Well, it looks quite amenable to me, and now I'm an old fart. Most of that clip looks like really good E1/2 5b/c climbing, wonderfully old-fashioned in style, i.e not overhanging and not relying on fantastic finger strength (huge layaways and jugs on every move in that clip), just good old-fashioned technique.
I think what you are seeing is someone climbing four grades below their best with the benefit of some cleaning and inspection of the route. Yes, he does make it look easy because, for him, it probably is.
Must be a record for the biggest armchair downgrade though - E8 down to E1/E2. :-)
You'd be quite wrong then. So far I don't think any of the routes have that have been climbed free have been much below 8a. I'll check the guide book later. As aid routes I've heard they are reasonably OK, although if you do them in winter it obviously adds a challenge as you are something like 300 kms north of the Arctic circle.
That's deserving of a thread in its own right! :-) Of course any grade can be compared to another system grade, but it seems different areas develop nuances even within one system (in my limited experience: Kvaløya 5+ = Lofoten 6), so comparisons tend to be a bit fuzzy.
So the grade translations will be an art of expressing nuance, like translating poetry! I'm quite proud of that analogy :)
I had to look up 'isomorphic' in this context (since we don't seem to be talking about crystallography). 'Corresponding or similar in form and relations' according to my dictionary.
Still not sure what isomorphically identical would mean though. Consistently comparable for similar sorts of moves?
I agree with Gordon though, that the section in the clip has visible holds and gear placements. From which I conclude that it might not be the hard part!
> You'd be quite wrong then. So far I don't think any of the routes have that have been climbed free have been much below 8a.
I seem to recall the easiest being 7b or so...
> Still not sure what isomorphically identical would mean though. Consistently comparable for similar sorts of moves?
I assume he was just trying to say that all grading systems other than the UK adjectival system measure the same thing and that therefore a direct translation is possible. "Most" might have been more accurate than "all"; the US system, for instance, certainly does not measure the same thing as a French grade (except when used for sports routes).
Great vid and idea for a trip. Very nice to see a sponsor supporting a long term project as well. Does this mean Dave might be having a go at more Euro Alpine stuff more often in the future?
Also - has it been a dry scando summer this year? My only experience of that part of the world is from the joke where the American tourist arrives in northern Norway and asks the kid at the train station "how long has it been raining here?" with the kid replying "I don't know i'm only seven"
Places like Bergen get vast amount of rain but they are much, much further south and also to the west. The Arctic weather is different. I've done 3 different week long trips to Lofoten in different years (and differing months) and never lost a climbing day to rain. Most times we've had rather good weather. I've been to Tromso region twice on summer trips - we've had rain both times at some points, but by climbing at the sea cliffs on Kvaløya rather than going up into the mountains, managed to climb each day. Ok; each day except one where we totally knackered after a 17 hour drive from home then climbing this: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=51061 straight out of the car - so were quite happy for it to rain and spend the day at the Arctic museum in Tromsø.
I take it English isn't your first language... even Dave had to look it up!
> I take it English isn't your first language... even Dave had to look it up!
Mathematics is my first language.
There's a good bit on Steve McClure's blog about his trip to Norway this summer. Sounds like it was really wet but they found some sports cliffs that are perma-dry, so there are options even if the weather is bad.
I think though where Steve went was down south. A bit like basing your views of the weather in Torridon on how it is in Cheddar or Swanage!
That Flatanger cave looks like it will stay dry though.
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