UKC

Which is likely to offer me the best climbing potential this weekend, I'm undecided so allowing UKC to make a decision for me.

Wales
*multipitch
- 3+ hr round trip
-hut full or students or camping at erics

Peak
*no or minimal journey time
-single pitch
*sleep in my own bed

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

Last weekend Trem was crawling with students from Sheffledld. Two of whom insisted on simul-climbing up, across, down etc on one of the busiest days I've seen there for a while (largely due to the other students I might add). Oh and abb'ing down on top of some poor chap trying to lead Grim Wall Direct (and yes I did says something).

But don't let that put you off. Trem is of course fantastic at VS/HVS and would be my choice.

In reply to JonC: Where is Sheffledld? Pleased you says'd something. I had three punters abb'ing on me on Grim Wall Direct when I had no gear in. One of them we had to make safe when he got to the ledge as it was his first time climbing... was it you? I saw the guys simul-climbing, they were polite and just massively psyched. They actually abb'ed to the side of the guy on Grim Wall Direct.

In reply to JonC: I know the guys who were simu-climbing, nice guys, they helped out with the beginners on the Sunday and insisted on taking them to a different crag to ease congestion, and as far as i saw they were polite and asked before getting in peoples way and got out of the way as soon as possible.

In reply to chrism225:

The two guys simul climbing did seem very psyched and I have no doubt they are lovely guys and well meaning. They looked to be having a lot of fun (and I really do mean that).

However, on one of the busiest areas at Trem on quite a busy day, they abseiled down Grim Wall (as did a couple of others on the same set of ropes I think). The first guy down, not on reflection the two simul-climbers, asked the guy leading GWD if it was ok to continue down. Whilst the chap leading GWD didn't explicitly say no (he didn't say yes either), it was clear he was unhappy, to the extent that he downclimbed from the 1st crux and waited. I think (though I was by that time unsighted) that he had set off again when the two simul-climbers started descending. When I pointed out to one of them that there was someone leading GWD beneath them, which is let's face it a reasonably bold route, he continued (though I agree he tried to abseil down to one side). His partner and then a girl (also a student I think) followed. I imagine the guy on GWD was sick of this and it must have pretty much ruined his climb. I had exactly the same happen to me a few years ago whilst on GWD.

By which time (and having waited around a while) I was leading the top pitch of GW when one of the simul-climbers then started to pull his ab ropes. They would have come down on top of me. I asked him to stop, which he did, before starting again before I had topped out.

At the top of the crag I was bringing up my partners when the two simul-climbers appeared beside me at the top of the crag and asked if they could come in next to me and abseil down again (presumably to do the top pitch of GW or GWD without the faff of the 1st pitch). I pointed out that my partners were still climbing and effectively refused. I accept that they could have abbed down more or less to the side of the GW finishing rib but I had by that point had enough of having ropes chucked down it and almost pulled down on top of me. To be fair, they politely accepted this and wondered off.

I could be wrong but I thought that the BMC (who own the crag) had published guidelines (I think included in the guide) to the effect that the abseil points are to be used with care, which is common sense. Surely using them on a busy day with people clearly leading beneath it, is not only impolite but potentially dangerous. I don't get why people do this given the walk off is only 10mins and not exactly onerous.

Later on in the day whilst we were pottering up Micah Elim (yes, I'm a punter as you pointed out) the two simul climbers appeared and went cheerfully up (I think) the HVS Treemudrock finish to Xmas Curry, cutting across my seconds and for a while effectively soloing just above them. As you say, psyched, having fun, but also rather oblivious to those around them. I couldn't be bothered to get worked up about this and it was quite funny as they didn't seem to have a clue what they were climbing, but it wasn't particularly respectful of other crag users safety.

Trem is not a sports crag, it is very solidly a trad crag and normal crag etiquette should apply. I actually wish someone would chop the blasted ab points.

In reply to JonC:

I dont want to sound selfish but this thread was supposed to be about ME ME ME! ;0)

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

The Peak - it forecast to rain in Wales on Sunday...simples as they say.

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

lol, sorry! To be fair, it was the other kids who caused the trouble

check mwis later for the weather...

In reply to JonC: i was there when they climbed Christmas curry and they actually waited while the first of your seconds got a reasonable distance away and were at the top before your other second had started, they also asked us if it was ok to over take. i don't see this behaviour showing thoughtlessness on their part. and they had plenty of gear between them so they wern't really soloing.

more annoying i'd say is people who seam oblivious to the invention of guide plates and insist on climbing as a 3, taking hours to individually climbing each pitch.

In reply to CrankWhore:

Oi!

In reply to CrankWhore:

I note that your only disagreement was with the Micah Elim thing - where I said I was mostly amused. However, for the record, although I couldn't see myself, I was told that they didn't have gear between them all the time on that pitch.

Did my seconds take "hours" to climb the pitch? I don't think so. Am I oblivious to the existence of guide plates, or is it simply that I don't have one as I don't normally climb as a three? However, it is very common for people to climb as a 3 on half ropes one after the other, as you well know, even multi-pitch.

You weren't the 1st guy down the ab rope on GW were you?

In reply to JonC: nah i'm just screwing with you i was the second guy simulclimbing.

in reply to the op you should got to tremadog and simulclimb its ace we got 12 routes in despite waking up at 11.

In reply to CrankWhore:

lol, well done.

I just checked your ticklist and you did indeed get some mileage in. We were intrigued, were you training for something?

As I said, I was just getting rather hacked off by all the abseil action around GW on what was a busy day. The Xmas Curry thing was quite funny really.

In reply to CrankWhore:

I feel like a spanish tanker, powerless to repel Somalian thread hijackers!

I'm offf to my safe room to compose a message in a bottle.

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):

The moral of the story is, if you go to Trem, stay well clear of GW unless you want to have ropes thrown over your gunnels and boarded by simul climbing pirates.

Right, I ought to do some work in the last hour or so of the day to make it seem like I achieved something this week...

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC): Pretty funny thread. I wasn't simul-climbing, I am not that cool, I wish I was.