UKC

Right firstly, i realise that this topic must have been totally battered over the life of the ukc forum so if another finger injury topic has p***ed you off, i'm genuinely sorry.

Right i was at the boldering wall last night and it was bloody baltic. I did a brief, token, warm up and jumped straight on a hard problem. It was a flakish type hold on the 30 degree wall. I had my full right hand and the middle two fingers of my left hand on the hold and pulled. I immedietly felt a horrible pain in my forearm, hand and left ring finger.

My mate's diagnosis was 'f***ed that mate' and the walk-in centre didn't offer much more insight either.

I've got up this morning and even slight movements are really sore in my hand and finger.

Can anyone with experience or expertise give me some advice please?

Thanks in advance, Ross

In reply to RossKirtley: rest needed old boy, no-one on here will be able to tell what extent you have pulled your fish mitten but lots of rest and see how it is in a couple of days.

The few times i have been injured i have been certain it was bad and after a few days been back to normal.

In reply to RossKirtley: Im not medically qualified but sounds like Flexor unit strain.
Ive experienced it before, a sharp tingling type pain from digit all the way to elbow, via the palm and inside of wrist

Apparently its common to tweak it when using pockets, or in your case, using the middle two

Sound familiar?

http://climbinginjuries.com/forums/read.php?2,805

http://www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx?ObjectId=31826&ObjectClass=...

In reply to jas wood: I'd agree with resting it (The time required depends on how bad it is). When it get's to the point when it's no longer painful then start easy climbing again (stick to jugs), but don't make the mistake off jumping on a hard problem too soon or you'll be back to square one (I learnt the hard way!).

When you get to the point of easy climbing again then start squeezing some theraputty (soft-medium) to help build up the strength. Also a common method to help speed up recovery is giving the injury cold treatment for about 10 mins at a time, although from past experience i'm not sure how effective this is, but certainly won't hurt to try it.

In reply to SeanB: btw, I was back climbing within 10 days.I tweaked it just prior to going to font.

In reply to RossKirtley:

Hi Ross. I did a similar thing a few months ago, warming up on a 7a+! Doh.

Very sore the next morning but soon felt better and I went back to climbing after 4 days. Initially continued to climb harder routes but kept wrenching it again. Reluctantly spent the next three weeks climbing only easy stuff with big juggy holds.

Still it was showing no sign of healing, and I was often resorting to wrapping my entire hand around holds, claw style!

Eventually I took a month off climbing. Since I was going on holiday anyway, the month passed quite quickly without too much frustration. Came back after my holiday, went back to climbing and it's been fine since.

So in my case, complete rest was the only cure.

In reply to RossKirtley: sorry mate but it sounds like you haver done some serious tendon damage to your ring finger tendon , i did this same thing about 4 months ago,short woarm up follwed by a hard problem.
did u hear a popping sound when u came off the wall? if u heard a popping sounds then u probablly have torn/ruptured the tendon,as i did.

there is nothing u can really do but rest xrays wont show anything,you need to ice ice ice everyday 15mins on 15 mins off ,i did this for about 2 months and it greatly helped speed up my recovery,
when u get back into it just take it esy for the first feew weeks jugs etc,i started to boulder again after about 1 month but very easy,if it starts to hurt of twinge stop.but do no let it completely rest and waste away

while u have spare time work on other things ie core strength or cardio,

also avoid deadlifts and pullups with sausages on your back,or u will reinjure yourself,i have great experience in this field

sorry buddy hope this helps

In reply to jas wood:
no-one on here will be able to tell what extent you have pulled your fish mitten