UKC

After 14 years in the waiting Jordan Buys made the, very impressive, 2nd ascent of John Dunne's Loaded at Ilkley on Saturday.

Naomi also head-pointed Snap Decision, her first E7.

Some pictures posted on here: http://jr-climbing.blogspot.com/2011/10/grit-season-has-begun-loaded-2nd-as...

Well done Jordan and Naomi...

In reply to John Roberts (JR):

Very Impressive climbing JR , nice blog & great pics too . A good day had by all concerned then . Good use of boulder mat too . Excellent stuff 80) cheers .

In reply to John Roberts (JR):Amazing effort by the Buys team what a fantastic day. I have made a small interview with Nao and Jordan you can read it on here. http://www.gazparryclimbing.com/2011/10/jordan-buys-completes-yorkshire-are...

In reply to John Roberts (JR): Good effort, shame he can't claim the E grade. What Font grade did he claim?

In reply to gaz parry: Hi Gaz

Nice interview there might be a 4th arete soon watch this space

In reply to John Roberts (JR): Great news that its been repeated well done Jordan

In reply to MikeRobbins:

Shut up.

In reply to John Roberts (JR):

Good stuff - well done folks.

In reply to Calder: ??

Censorship is a slippery slope Calder my friend.

The E grade is only given for routes climbed in the pure on-sight style.

Buys is certainly a talented individual but look at the facts: He placed a high side runner, multiple crash mats and had a second belayer, and had multiple attempts on the route: hardly a pure ascent.

The problem with UKC is that the majority of posters put too much weight on numbers and not enough on purity.

Mike.

In reply to MikeRobbins:

Either way, I don't suppose he's that bothered about "claim[ing] the E grade", as he's previously on-sighted E8 anyway!

In reply to MikeRobbins:

No it's not, it's given for every trad route in the UK. It gives very appropriate information for the headpoint. You can't claim the onsight of an E8 in this style but you can claim the headpoint.


Yes, it's not the greatest style, but it's failed to have an ascent for 14 years. I'll be very surprised if this is on sighted, or flashed, in the next 20 years due to the technical difficulty. The "side runner" is the runner. You'll notice that it was reported with clarity, that's the important point.


If you understood the context, and given it was Jordan, who has on sighted many routes above E6, in this instance your point is a bit irrelevant, but of course, sometimes, you are correct.


Do you need to head your own advice - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=479536&v=1#x6605415

In reply to John Roberts (JR):

What area is the backdrop photo for your blog?

In reply to MikeRobbins:


FFS! A notoriously overlooked hard JD route gets it's first repeat in what, 14 years and this tired pish is the the best you can come out with? Grow up or shut up.

Good effort Jordan, hopefully you'll inspire some others to give these routes the attention they deserve.
jk

In reply to jkarran:

Too right. And maybe it'll also inspire some of us mortals to try a bit harder next time we're out.

In reply to MikeRobbins:

Shut up.

In reply to John Roberts (JR):


Not true i'm afraid.

Anyway, this is ace. Looks like sage climbing and it must be hard not to have had a repeat in all this time. Certainly Looks like it needs a Direct start though, traversing out of wellington just looks weird.

In reply to John Roberts (JR):

Was in the quarry on sat and watched both climbs - very impressive to watch, nice one.

Nearly fell off the top of Blucher after Jordan climbed Loaded - must have been the shouts of joy putting me off!

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Just because you gave a new route a H grade so it doesn't have an E...

It's an estimate for headpointed routes, we know this Franco.

Direct would be "impossible"

In reply to John Roberts (JR): looks an amazing position on that loaded wall. Really goof effort too for Naomi, especially after seeing that fall from their mate in grit flick, a looonnggg way down.

In reply to John Roberts (JR): *good

In reply to MattDTC:

To be honest I either:

A) can't remember

Or

B) it's a stock theme from blogger

So not sure...!

In reply to John Roberts (JR):

Like the position of the red crash mat, handdy for those pendulum falls

In reply to MikeRobbins:

Reckon you could improve on the style? The floor's wide open - I for one can't wait to see your attempts.

Fantastic to see this get done at last. I watched someone try this last year in brutally cold weather and it looked amazing - always wondered why it didn't see more attention before.

In reply to neilh:

He hit it first go...

In reply to John Roberts (JR):

Brilliant! Inspirational. You see stuff like this going down and just get motivated (at whatever standard you climb).

Has the red mat blown half-way up the V Diff? And didn't Scott MacKenzie sing that hippe anthem, "San Francisco"? Surrealistic!

Mick

P.S. To Franco: Not sure that direct start will ever go, mate. Don't remember anything resembling holds on the lower arete. Still, who knows?

In reply to J Dunne: Is it this line on the left?

http://tinyurl.com/5rjkpye

I saw it too. Looks tastey!

In reply to John Roberts (JR): Can anyone explain to me the logic behind going to the effort to place the crash mat and having a second belayer and then not going to the effort of wearing a helmet?

I understand it is personal choice, and i'm not criticising the climber for his choices, i would just like to understand them.

In reply to ablackett:

Maybe he thought there was a real chance of hitting feet-first but very little chance of hitting anything with his head?

Maybe he didn't want any perceived additional security when in reality the threat would not have been to his head anyway?

Maybe he prefers not to wear a helmet because he enjoys climbing more without one on?

There' lots of possible logic once you accept that helmet=safety=preferable may not always be the case for everyone.

In reply to ablackett:

I think the quote from Jordan was:

"I'm not sure I could have done it if I was wearing a helmet"

Something to do with him fitting his face round the arete so close to the rock.

In reply to MikeRobbins: agreed

In reply to MikeRobbins: have you done it???

In reply to Simon Rackley:

What, from his armchair?

In reply to Simon Rackley:

Of course he has! He's already done it in impeccable style, which is why he can talk so knowledgeably about it. He'd have to have done really, wouldn't he, otherwise he'd look like a dick.

Oh, hang on...