UKC

ONE ice axe

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 AdCo82 01 Nov 2011
Evening all,

What grade have you managed to climb in winter with just a walking axe???

I have a friend who has C2 crampons and a Grivel Evolution ice axe. He has climbed grade I gullies before but wants to take it further this winter but cannot afford to buy new axes.

What have people managed in this style before???
 alan1234 01 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas:

I used to make clients climb WI3 (Scottish 4, roughly) with no axes at all to improve balance, and I know of a famous climber who's lead a big WI5 pitch with no crampons for a challenge (points for guessing who).

I have a question though, why not buy some axes second hand off UKC and then sell them back after the season? Or join a club that lends/rents them out.
OP AdCo82 01 Nov 2011
In reply to alan1234:

I have been trying to get him some second hand axes but they are either too technical or people asking too much for them???
ice.solo 01 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas:

lots of approachs at maybe WI2. some training on a top rope at maybe WI4 (in case of a dropped tool) but scary and not very realistic.

the better one is at crampon technique and pioleting the further one can go - some pretty crazy stuff was climbed in days of yore like this, with good step cutting.

if your mates seconding he wouldnt need 2 new axes, one would do with the evolution. one now, one next season.
or lower one of the leaders tools down.
or they could jug the section with a single tool and an ascender.
 franksnb 01 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas: if he can't afford one ice axe (which sound seriously improbable) he should be address his financial problems before going ice climbing.
1
OP AdCo82 01 Nov 2011
In reply to franksnb:

sill reply.....why is that????
Chariot 01 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas:

I've done I-II grade in Tatras, Poland, with C1 crampons, bending summer boots and straight-shafted walking ice axe
but obviously if your friend wants to make progress, he has to buy a more technical ice axe
if he doesn't want too technical, DMM Fly would be a good choice
he can buy a new one for under £100
 Franco Cookson 01 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas:


Bowfell buttress goes with a single axe. Make sure it's a long one though.
 Davy Virdee 01 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas:

I started winter climbing with one mountaineering axe - many grade I routes can be climbed with one axe. I then progressed to borrowing a second mountaineering axe from a friend, and this then got me up many grade II and III climbs.

I then bought a hammer to match my mountaineering axe, and climbed many grade IIIs and alpine routes with this combination.

Finally, I got a pair of matched technical tools and off I went....

As other posters have said, you can borrow or get a good condition second tool from someone if your budget is modest and climbs loads of good routes.

Davy
 Scarab9 01 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas:

I got a pair last year for £60 in good condition

sadly they got lost in an avalanche.

I just got another pair yesterday for £60 in good condition.

I'm also looking for a walking axe and expect to get one for potentially 30-40 on ebay in good condition.

tell him to buy a second axe if he's worried!
 Jim Walton 01 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas: Comb Gully on the Ben goes with a 70cm walking axe and a B&Q hammer.
 TobyA 01 Nov 2011
 Pay Attention 01 Nov 2011
In reply to alan1234:

Jimmy Marshall?
 top cat 02 Nov 2011
Probably depends on the route, but I have done Tower Ridge twice with one axe, walking boots and c1 crampons (and 3 times more with the full kit: I enjoyed the one axe ascents more).
I have done a few Gd2 gully climbs with just a single axe. However, at that time I was climbing Gd5 regularly, so was pretty comfortable on Gd2.

There is a lot to be said for doing easy routes with minimum kit; useful training for when you drop a tool (don't ask!)

TC
 Billhook 02 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas:
You shoud be able to climb grade ii and some grade iii with only one axe.

In my opinion it is also overkill when you see pairs going up simple i/ii routes fully togged up with tons of gear.

As said its also good practice and makes for more fun and challenge.
 Mattyk 02 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas: north buttress on buchaille with one axe after getting one stuck in a crack and foolishly climbing on above it. it was quite a frightening experience and we ended up benighted as i took me so long.. lessons learned!
In reply to An Triubhas:

Should be no problem up to grade III. The first time I did Central Gully on Great End (grade II) we had one walking axe each and no crampons. The twin axe and fancy crampons approach probably has more to do with the ease with which we are all susceptible to good marketing rather than the necessity of the gear for the intended use?

I guess most winter routes pre 1940's were climbed with one (very long shaft, straight pick, walking axe)and nailed boots rather than crampons. Steep Ghyll on Scafell was climbed with minimal gear in about 1890. It is Grade V (technical 4) so a 1930's Grade III with a modern walking axe (curved pick) and some good walking crampons ought to be OK. I would caution that pure water ice climbs will be more challenging with the one axe approach than the traditional gullies.
 Tony the Blade 03 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas:

I solo'd Number 2 Gully on Ben Nevis with a DMM Cirque. I shat myself as what was a snow plod on my first ascent was an ice pitch a year later!!

I certainly wouldn't do it again, and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone!
 Solaris 03 Nov 2011
In reply to An Triubhas:

I seconded my first winter climb on a single walking axe (and a tight rope!): Central Gully, Lliwedd (V).
Jim Crow 03 Nov 2011
In reply to alan1234:

Will Gadd

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