UKC

In August this year, four young Germans, Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur, made the first ascent of Dreams of youth on the 700m Tsaranoro Atsimo, in the in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar.
11 of the 18 pitches are 8a or harder, and with three 8b+'s and one 8c, it very...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64860

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: at the end it say's it's 7b, A1+ ?

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
No. At the end of the day, it's 8c. Why post stuff like that, it's just stupid.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: WOW! what a douche, I just wanted to know why it say's 7b, it's obviously there for a reason.

In reply to iamchris:

That is very odd. Perhaps it was the grade before they freed it? Although it showed them placing bolts, so unless they took a different line it can't be... Most odd.

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Gives would be repeaters an idea of the obligatoire grade, if nothing else. Suggests that the cruxes are all very well geared...

In reply to AJM:

Dave Hesleden and I were climbing in Tsaranoro at the same time as Martin, Phillip, Lukas and Toby put up 'Dreams of Youth'. I actually jumared their fixed ropes on one of my 'rest' days to take some shots.

It's an amazing line, but it turned out to be way harder than they had been expecting and, as it stands, it's currently more of a project rather than a route, open to anyone who fancies their chances on 8th grade granite.

The smoothness of the rock made sky-hook placements all but impossible on the harder sections, making bolting from top steps (of etriers) the only alternative.

This means that at the moment it's almost over protected, and could probably be climbed as an out and out aid route (apart from the lower pitches — up to 7b).

Pete.

In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

I you saying that it hasn't all been climbed then?

In reply to Franco Cookson:

It hasn't been climbed free, by a long, long way.

Pete.

In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

O, ok. Slightly misleading article then... Great effort all the same, looks like they had fun!

In reply to Franco Cookson:

They certainly had plenty of laughs, and also gave plenty to almost everyone they met along the way. A good time was had by all.

Incidentally, the 'easy' slabby section lower down the route has just two or three bolts per pitch and (as with many routes in Tsaranoro) it's a case of 6b going on E5!

Pete.

In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

haha, I can imagine. It looks like a superb route and at 18 pitches, fairly big. I'm interested how they came up with the pitch grades if they didn't free it, or did they make attempts to?

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Dear Franco,
How dare you hijack this thread with your ego?
Yrs,
Powly

In reply to Pete O'Donovan:

Sounds like you had a great trip - cheers for making more sense of the news article! Should be up your way in the next few weeks if you're around? Have mailed you re: Cogullons too.

In reply to Franco Cookson:

about the grades...the 7b/A1+ is the obligatory grade and the way we did it when we put up the route. About the other grades...we made attempts in 8 of the 11 hard pitches and we climbed all the pitches up to 8a+ free but not redpoint! In the other pitches we've tried we couldn't do 1 or 2 moves or even more and that's why we proposed something harder than 8a+. If you have a look at the original topo http://kletterszene.com/news/madagaskar-expedition-2011-bericht-exklusiv-vi...
you can see that all the grades are just proposals and with a question mark!

In reply to Pete O'Donovan:
and thanks Pete for setting things straight

In reply to Philipp Hofmann:

Thanks for clearing that up, it was quite confusing. It's great that you've made a ready-bolted monster route for someone to free.


Schaut echt Geil aus!