/ NEWS: Wideboyz Climb Century Crack Placing Gear

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UKC News - on 07 Nov 2011
Tom Randall climbing Century Crack placing the gear on lead, 4 kbThe UK's favourite wide-fetish trout-ticklers Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall have returned to Century Crack and climbed it placing the gear on lead.

Here is their full report...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64870

jon on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Interesting graded list. Makes a bit of a mockery out of the original grades.
johnl - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Interesting graded list. Makes a bit of a mockery out of the original grades.

Interesting indeed. I certainly can't think of anyone better qualified to make the judgement though.
Reading about the boldness of placing the minimally spaced gear on lead and with the possibility of decking up to halfway, I wonder what UK trad grade the 8c would convert to?
Stefan Kruger on 07 Nov 2011
mkean - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to jon:
Interesting graded list. Makes a bit of a mockery out of the original grades.

A mockery of the grades or just that cracks can be very morpho: Mr Fatfingers won't be able to climb meltdown and you'd find classic jamming cracks like the Crank a lot harder if you had tiny hands and had to teacup your way up?

Maybe we need to send someone up these routes with a ruler so we can get a "fatness factor" for them? So we could have Century crack 5.14d (36, 28, 39) ;-)
Scarab - on 07 Nov 2011
Woohoo, some got told!
Oliver Hill - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC News: What an inspiration! and thanks for all the technical detail. This should help and inspire others. A really professional approach to climbing.
To the rest of the world: to become a Master of Climbing you need to get a full compliment of technique in all disciplines, not just fingery things.

I am not surprised your ground up placing of pro was an anticlimax. But to be a Master Master Climber you needed to satisfy your critics. In an ideal world not necessary nor even sensible, but then that is trad climbing and what the pundits want. Just don't take too many such risks per year, or statistics will catch up with you.
conorcussell - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to johnl: The boldness of their ascent shouldn't really affect it's trad grade. You could protect it every inch with enough cams. They just chose to climb it in a bold way.

Like how ignoring half the protection on a route wouldn't bump up the adjective grade.
ClimberEd - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to Scarab:
> Woohoo, some got told!

Totally agree.

The naysayers were very boring on this one.

Great stuff.
Franco Cookson on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to conorcussell:

The point is mr. connor that you couldn't carry enough gear to protect it, or carrying enough gear is physically harder, so it would effect the trad grade.
Jimbo C - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to johnl:
> (In reply to jon)
> [...]
>
> I wonder what UK trad grade the 8c would convert to?

The few E10s that exist are bold and come in at around the F8b grade, so bold F8c probably comes in at around E11.

What a way to put down your critics! Although I think it's sad that they felt pushed into repeating the route.

franksnb - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to Jimbo C: "Although I think it's sad that they felt pushed into repeating the route." yep
johncoxmysteriously - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to jon:

It certainly is. In my own modest area, Gin Palace easier than Goliath?? Really - suspect that would be a minority opinion.

Good effort - am I a naysayer/hater/grumpy old man, I wonder? I thought it was a brilliant effort before and even more so now - doesn't everybody?

jcm
jon on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to franksnb:
> (In reply to Jimbo C) "Although I think it's sad that they felt pushed into repeating the route." yep

Agreed, but of course it's the curse of the professional climber. Along with video footage, witnesses, photos... Great that they did though!
shark - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to jon: johncoxmysteriously:

> It certainly is. In my own modest area, Gin Palace easier than Goliath?? Really - suspect that would be a minority opinion.
>


I think they are including this for an ascent of Goliath without laybacking
Dave Garnett - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> am I a grumpy old man, I wonder?

Sorry, John , you nearly made me spill my coffee!
johncoxmysteriously - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to shark:
> (In reply to jon) johncoxmysteriously:
>
> [...]
>
>
> I think they are including this for an ascent of Goliath without laybacking

So am I! Laybacking, my arse. I don't reckon we'd hear half so much about how laybacking it is easier if the people who laybacked it had to get in and clip the sling on the chock(!) and then back out again.

jcm
Dave Garnett - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to conorcussell)
>
> The point is mr. connor that you couldn't carry enough gear to protect it, or carrying enough gear is physically harder, so it would effect the trad grade.

I agree. It's a bit more complicated in that it's apparently harder to get past the in situ gear then it is to place it en route, but the need to carry fewer pieces because of weight surely must make the route bolder in practice.
Bulls Crack - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC News:

All very well but surely now attention must be focussed on the first top-rope ascent?
royal - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Great news. But it's not a real ascent unless it's been solo'd in nailed boots.
Offwidth - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

In my own modest area am I a naysayer/hater/grumpy old man, I wonder?

In my own modest area am I a naysayer/hater/grumpy old man, I wonder?

In my own modest area am I a naysayer/hater/grumpy old man, I wonder?

In my own modest area am I a naysayer/hater/grumpy old man, I wonder?

In my own modest area am I a naysayer/hater/grumpy old man, I wonder?

In my own modest area am I a naysayer/hater/grumpy old man, I wonder?

Somehow it it fails to loose its effect even when repeated.
Chris the Tall - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Great stuff. All they have to do now is repeat it without taping up their hands and they can claim the first free ascent ;)
mike kann - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to Bulls Crack: Indeed - a top roped ascent would be substantially bolder than all previous ascents. Come on wideboyz, show us what you're made of.
shark - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:> So am I! Laybacking, my arse. I don't reckon we'd hear half so much about how laybacking it is easier if the people who laybacked it had to get in and clip the sling on the chock(!) and then back out again.
>
> jcm

Search your memory (and conscience!)are you sure you didnt layback the last two moves above the chock? I know I did. Answer on another thread or postcard !

x

Offwidth - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to shark:

I failed horribly trying to second a strong german who's resident in the UK. He got in and out ok but otherwise laybacked. Like most steep well protected offwidths I suspect trad style its slightly easier to lead than second as any tension on the rope tends to keep you in the crack. I've also watched a yank lead it beautifully trad style who was struggling on F6 problems on the boulders below.
johncoxmysteriously - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to shark:

Quite sure. Indeed I failed miserably when attempting this approach, fell off and bashed my shin rather painfully. I remember this particularly because my second observed crossly that I was dripping blood on to her new bouldering mat, and rather unsupportively moved it out of the way. Thrutching was much easier - I won't say probably only gritstone V Diff really - but definitely easier than laybacking.

jcm
Will Hunt - on 07 Nov 2011
In reply to conorcussell:
If I see you in the Packhorse on Wednesday, Conor, you're getting a slap round the chops for that!
Dave Warburton - on 08 Nov 2011
In reply to conorcussell: Should have stuck to writing your essay my friend... your brains clearly been fried!
Jonny2vests - on 08 Nov 2011
In reply to Will Hunt:
> (In reply to conorcussell)
> If I see you in the Packhorse on Wednesday, Conor, you're getting a slap round the chops for that!

So if I do London Wall with two runners, do I get E7?
mkean - on 08 Nov 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:
So if I do London Wall with two runners, do I get E7?

Don't be a wally; you'll only get E3 because you are carrying a lightweight rack that doesn't weigh you down, unless you are also carrying a brickies hod and wearing riggers boots in which case I'll let you have the E7 tick.

:-)

Craig Smith on 08 Nov 2011 - l-mid4416.smith.man.ac.uk
In reply to UKC News:

Great job. Well done. This is a great achievement. Definitely, one of the ascents of the year.

bravo,

Craig
GrahamD - on 08 Nov 2011
In reply to Craig Smith:

As an academic point, do you ascend a horizontal crack ?
JoshOvki on 08 Nov 2011
In reply to GrahamD:

More of a steep traverse really.
Jiduvah - on 08 Nov 2011
In reply to GrahamD: well you do ascend that one right at the end.
peewee2008 - on 09 Nov 2011
In reply to mike kann: i dunno, the belayer could stand on top and just walk along the crack.
mike kann - on 09 Nov 2011
In reply to peewee2008: Would that not count as a side runner seeing as the majority of the climb is horizontal?
peewee2008 - on 09 Nov 2011
In reply to mike kann: Depends how fast the belayer runs :)
James Mann - on 09 Nov 2011
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to conorcussell)
>
> The point is mr. connor that you couldn't carry enough gear to protect it, or carrying enough gear is physically harder, so it would effect the trad grade.

It wouldn't effect the trad grade Mr Cookson. It would in fact, affect it. Having recently read your post which rather strongly criticised the use of the English language, I thought that a dose of your own medicine might be just what you need! Aren't you supposed to be in Innsbruck studying? Not English I hope!
Craig Smith on 10 Nov 2011 - l-mid4416.smith.man.ac.uk
In reply to GrahamD:

Yes Graham as you said 'an academic point'

: )


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