/ THE LOWDOWN: 8C+ boulder by Ondra

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Björn Pohl - UKC - on 14 Nov 2011
Adam Ondra and Dai Koyamada, 4 kbAdam Ondra seems to have made the first ascent of Terranova, an old project of his at Holstejn near his home in the Czech republic. Adam feels this one is harder than anything else he has done and suggests 8C+.
If this is the problem I think it is, it is relatively long on quite sharp tiny holds...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64987
TheHorroffice - on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
It took him 11 days? WTF, does he have a cold?!
Daniel Heath - on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

That was a really enjoyable read. He seems a lot more natural speaking in English than a few years ago.
pffft - on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

How many 8C+'s are there? He seems to imply its the first 8C+
remus - on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to pffft:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC)
>
> How many 8C+'s are there? He seems to imply its the first 8C+

To me it sounds more like he found it a step harder than the boulders he tried that are fairly well established at 8C. Im sure he'd be the first to point out theres a lot of hard boulders he hasn't done.
Ged Desforges - on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to pffft: I think some 8C+ have been claimed, but they are long stamina tests, rather than short problems like this one. It would be interesting to know how Gaskins' short problems compare...

Stunning performance again from Ondra. Incredible that he can be at the very front of the pack at bouldering AND long sport climbs
xican - on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: shame its looks crap
catt on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to pffft:

I believe 8C+ is an unconfirmed new level in bouldering. Previous 8C+ claims have been downgraded by subsequent ascensionists and in the odd case in hindsight by the FA, or are effectively routes where a bouldering grade is meaningless. I think that's what Ondra Wad is getting at by suggesting it's daft to carry on saying something is just soft/mid/hard 8C, just let the new grade happen.
catt on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to catt:

Having said that, has Lucid Dreaming seen a repeat yet?
PeterJuggler - on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to catt: I don't think Lucid Dreaming has been repeated. Paul downgraded it himself after climbing other 8C's in Europe and South Africa and following Dave Graham's lead for a new standard for 8C.
catt on 14 Nov 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Some more pics for those interested...

http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/thumbnails.php?album=84
Jiduvah - on 15 Nov 2011
In reply to catt: is he wearing odd shoes?
MJ - on 15 Nov 2011
In reply to Jiduvah:

is he wearing odd shoes?

Only on one of his feet.
Eagle River - on 15 Nov 2011
In reply to catt:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC)
>
> Some more pics for those interested...
>
> http://www.climb4fun.cz/climb4fun/thumbnails.php?album=84

No wonder he found it so hard, he took his top off half way through.

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