/ Excellent set of problems at the castle

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Jim Houghton - on 15 Nov 2011
Was at the castle last night, the reset Mezz was the best yet I thought: really creative and a good range of grades.

On another note - I'm sure the King of the mezz had started by this time last year?
rmoffat - on 16 Nov 2011
In reply to Jim Houghton: no mezz this year, shit huh boulderers?
royal - on 16 Nov 2011
In reply to Jim Houghton:
Must add that all the lead routes have really improved as well, especially upstairs in the tall lead area. A lot of them always seemed very thuggy but not very well thought out but everything I've been on in the last few weeks has been really interesting and a lot more subtle.
The grades seem to be more realistic as well. I used to be able to do 7a's on the slabs upstairs which was ridiculous because I can only manage around 6b outside. Now the majority tend to match what I can do outside.
Now all they need to do is make the taps turn on for more than 3 seconds at a time so I can wash my hands in less than 15minutes.
pawelx - on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to Jim Houghton: aren't some of the problems at Mezzanine level graded rather hard?
There is this steep orange V2 which felt like V4 to me!
mkean - on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to pawelx:
Just head upstairs, they are a little softer on the features wall :-)
catt on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to pawelx:

That orange is indeed actually V3.7
mkean - on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to catt:
So slightly easier than the grey V3.8 in the pen?
pawelx - on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to catt: sorry are you joking or was it actually meant to be graded closer to V4?

Also perhaps you know - purple slopers problem on the lower level, slightly-off-vertical wall right next to the system board cave, what grade is it? The number has been wiped off the tag, but it seems that it could have been V3 in which case it's much harder than all other V3's there!
agibb - on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to Jim Houghton:

I was down visiting London last week. I had a few sessions at the Castle, and thought the problems were really nice. Lots of interesting puzzles. Which made a contrast to my local wall, where everything hard seems to be about crimping something tiny really hard, or mad stretchy body tension on roofs. How I miss ye, Castle.
catt on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to mkean:

That grey is disgusting, and going on V5...
mkean - on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to catt:
Glad I'm not the only one who thought so, the move up for the second hold on the wall almost killed me!
catt on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to pawelx:

Hi, I don't know what it's actually meant to be graded, but the fact is it is closer to V4! They just have fun sandbagging in there sometimes, part of Castle life.

There are a couple of similar slopey probs on that wall by the wave, both with nasty last moves. I think one was V3 and the other (the one finishing in the top right corner) V4 but I forget which was which colour.
Quiddity - on 25 Nov 2011
In reply to pawelx:

> There is this steep orange V2 which felt like V4 to me!

That's because it is V4, it's just it says V2 on the tag.
royal - on 28 Nov 2011
In reply to pawelx:

> Also perhaps you know - purple slopers problem on the lower level, slightly-off-vertical wall right next to the system board cave, what grade is it? The number has been wiped off the tag, but it seems that it could have been V3 in which case it's much harder than all other V3's there!

Very cool route that, I really like the middle moves. I managed to do all the moves but havn't managed to finish it with the last move yet. I think it was a V3, deffo felt hard though.

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