UKC

Hey, I'm relatively new to the world of trad climbing, having spent most of my time climbing indoors. However, I'm just starting to get into it and I'm looking to invest in a few things rather than borrowing all the gear.

I have a question about the 'Alpkit Clippers' which are snapgate carabiners I was thinking of using to keep nuts, hexes etc. organised and attached to my harness. Now it says that they are not load bearing and thus not suitable for climbing. However, as I'm not going to be falling on them, are they OK for this job? Or should I spend more and get something more substantial.

http://www.alpkit.com/shop/cart.php?target=product&product_id=16304&...

In reply to Chris Irwin: To be honest I would pay the extra and get some that are suitable for all sorts of things, that way if you need one, you have one!!! but they should be ok for racking gear.

In reply to Chris Irwin:
Using a proper 'fully rated' carabiner will mean you've got a fully rated carabiner for when you need it, it also removes the possibility of accidentally using an under strength one. You can pick up cheap full strength carabiners like DMM pro-wire very cheaply.

In reply to Chris Irwin: why though? If you use full strength ones then they can be used for setting up belays if you run out of screw gates or clip the rope straight into gear if you run out of runners etc.

Good Point, I guess it would be useful to have a set of load bearing ones just in case... *sigh* this trad business is not cheap!

In reply to Chris Irwin:

Apart from what everyone else has said (which I agree with), the clippers are tiny so not really appropriate for racking gear purely from a practical point of view.

In reply to Chris Irwin: have you seen the alpkit ones?

they're small and a bit fiddly!

In reply to Chris Irwin: At some point, you will have an epic, run out of kit (usually many feet above your last gear) and want that last 'biner that your chalkbag/nut key/prussiks/wires are on. Make sure you can use it.

Below is a link to a needlesports (online merchants/climbing sages and all round nice people)offer on prowires... not that much more expensive and you can use them for racking AND climbing... far more practical than some novelty 'biner.

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Karabiners/St...

In reply to Chris Irwin:

Think about those carabiners. they are quite small and not the easiest to operate. Do you really want to be fiddling with one on the crux moves of a route?
See the thing is you may not want to be using them, but i have found proper carabiners useful whilst climbing. Also, most things have carabiners on them already or can have them on. When I started climbing, an older climber told me that you dont want any non-load bearing carabiners on your harness. It would be worth investing in real screwgates or snapgates.

In reply to Chris Irwin:
>... *sigh* this trad business is not cheap!

True that.
You could perhaps compromise by picking up some second-hand snapgates for racking gear on. For example you could look at item number 120811277462 on ebay. Or you could try a 'wanted' ad on here.

In reply to Andyh83:


I love prowires, but the single thing that I don't think that they are good for is racking multiple bits of gear. Because they are so narrow at the bottom, the gear doesn't sit well. I would always use a wider krab for racking, and you can usually pick up some good deals.

In reply to Chris Irwin:

Decathlon sell Simond / CAMP quickdraws for £6.99. They may not be the lightest of crabs out there, but at £3.50 each, they're about the cheapest. They also have a clean nose, which I find handy when racking wires.

In reply to Monk: Personal preference. I actually have all my wires on them and have never had any problems.

In reply to kingborris:
They also have a clean nose, which I find handy when racking wires.

Totally agree, much prefer snapgates with a clean nose.
(that's ones that don't have a small hook or in-dent that the gate closes into)
For cheapness you could look for DMM seconds; check websites for Joe Brown's, V12, Needlesports etc....

In reply to Chris Irwin:
I've tried this already. Its no problem to use a cheap krab to rack gear but if you need to yank test the piece then the krab will deform. I use them for shoes and stuff though.

In reply to Chris Irwin:

every time you think trad climbing ain't cheap... pick up a mountain bike magazine! then head into V12 and have a nice time rooting around in the cosmetic seconds area

In reply to daWalt:

I generally prefer a 'snaggy' nose when racking wires.
Its slightly more fiddly getting a wire off the rack, but also significantly more difficult to tip them all off into space when you're gripped and fumbling. Admittedly, not being a ham-fisted oaf is probably a better way to prevent that, but sometimes I find that a bit of a struggle. ;O)