UKC

I posted ages ago about going to the Arapiles etc and got some great advice. I'm closer to my trip and I'm back for more:

What sort of a rack should I take? I'm working on the basis of a standard multipitch rack of the sort I'd take to the Lakes so planning to leave my big cams etc behind to save weight. I'm tempted to take a pair of skinny 50m ropes but could take a 60m single rope. Suggestions please on saving weight!

I might have a few day in NZ - suggestions for climbing / climbing resources please?

Insurance - suggestions please?

I'd probably aim to go camping (as in next to a car) any suggestions?

I quite like to do a short multiday hike - any huts in the Grampians?
Thanks!

In reply to bz: We stayed in a hostel in Natimuk, 5 miles from Arapiles. It was very comfortable, friendly and had great showers.

In reply to bz:
mojozone.co.nz is it ukc equivalent in NZ. Where are you headed in NZ? If you're on a climbing trip I would just stay in Australia and not waste the time/money to climb inferior rock in NZ (I live in NZ). I'd probably just bring one rope.

If you do have to go to NZ, go to the south island and go bouldering at Castle Hill. It's awesome (though not as awesome as arapiles).

If camping in NZ, as long as it doesn't say no camping and it's on crown land, you're good to go - the "Freedom Camping" law. Arapiles has a great campground, but I don't know about anywhere else.

Insurance in NZ - a wonderful thing called ACC (Accidents Claims Compensation) will cover you if you get hurt (i.e have an accident) while in NZ. Everybody is covered, there's nothing to buy into etc... Just make sure you tell the doctor that you "had an accident". Those are the magic words.

hope that helps

In reply to bz:

- double up on wires and small to med cams, i hardly use anything bigger than a size 3 friend.
- your 60 probably weighs less than 2x50's so take that. It shouldn't be an issue as that's what most people use. I think only the pharos has a 40m ab descent which would be handy for stuff like lamplighter:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=645

the rest is walk off able or less than 30m.

- plenty of climbing options in NZ, and plenty of stuff on here, ie:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=24

- standard travel insurance should be fine i would have thought.

- there are loads of places to car camp....the main climber's one in the Gramps is Stapylton which is handy for the world famous Taipan wall, info here:

http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/things-to-d...

some sites like the one for Mt Rosea have been storm damaged recently, so check up on that. You should be able to easily and fairly cheaply pick up camping gear either in the cities like Melbourne (Mtn Designs, Paddy Pallins) or country towns like Horsham (eg Kmart) which is near Araps.

- no real huts in Oz outside of the alpine areas, and none i know if in the Grampians, NZ is better for that kind of stuff ie the Routeburn and Caples tracks, but you need to book ahead now unlike when i did it yonks ago.

In reply to bz: Hello. I've recently moved to Melbourne and had my first trip up to the Grampians a few weeks ago. Sadly, my rack is still on the boat so I'm yet to do any proper climbing. Check Chockstone for all actual climbing info. The Grampians are beautiful though, and the bouldering at Andersens (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=17209) is really good too.

Pick up the Spatial Vision Outdoor Recreation Guides (apparently the best maps for the area) for details of multiday walks. You have to camp, but there are plenty of maintained camp grounds. I only have the map for the northern Grampians. It includes a two day and three day walk, both of which look fairly easy and well worth doing. We went up to Brigg's Bluff, which is stunning at the moment with all the spring flowers.

Keep in mind that some roads and tracks are still closed from the flooding. They might have opened a few more by now, but when we went the centre of the park wasn't easily accessible. There's still plenty to do in the north. Oh, and Halls Gap is a great place for spotting kangaroos.

For insurance, you're covered for necessary medical expenses via a reciprocal agreement with the UK. You have to pay for ambulances though, so some travel insurance to cover that might be useful.

If you're hiring a car and planning on driving in the Grampians, make sure to hire from Budget or Avis. They're the only companies that let you drive on unsealed roads (which you will be doing) without forking out for a 4x4.

In reply to Morgan Woods: Morgan - do you have any recommendations for family friendly crags in the Grampians? My kids (6 & 7) might even climb if there are some nice easy routes.

Basically not too far to walk to, with space where the kids can mess about at the bottom with out getting in anyone's way or falling off stuff themselves. It would only be flying visit - but we might stay a night in the Grampians as we go from Adelaide to Melbourne next month.

In reply to TobyA:

I'm not Morgan but from some very happy years exploring the Gramps, I'd say that Summer Day Valley takes a lot of beating if you've got children. Close to the road, a lovely place to explore, and routes of all grades. Hollow Mountain is a short walk away and that's a lovely place for children and has some superb climbing too. The whole area is a wonderland. One thing to bear in mind at this time of year is that it's significantly warmer in the Northern Gramps than it is in the Sth or near Hall's Gap.

We had various tucked away "local knowledge" spots where we'd camp beside a hidden creek, stash the beer during the day and get back, strip off, and cool down. But I think there are organized sites now at Roses Creek. Someone with more up-to-date knowledge than I have will be along soon enough to correct me...

In reply to bz:

It depends on where you are in NZ
I recommend Milford for Hiking and Trad climbing ( Google Darran mountains!)
Moirs mate is a 1.5 hr walk in but has lots of all natural pro multi pitch.
Mt Somers, canterbury is also Fantastic Trad climbing much closer to Christchurch. Quite a hike to the Hut( 3 hrs?) but then no more than 1 hr to the crags from there.
Castle hill is great. Do the Cave while you are there.
Some people say NZ dosn't have quality climbing, but I suspect they didn't get far from the main road.

Rope wise I would recommend checking Guide books. I was told I'd only need a single rope to climb at Frog butress Australia on the internet, but actually the best climbs are 40 odd meters!
If you were to Climb in Queenstown you will need a 60m or doubles. If you want any more info On the Queenstown/ wanaka/ Milford area you can message me.

Queenstownclimbing.com, alpineclub.org.nz, Mojozone are the sites I use

Not really Cool to camp in a farmers paddock without asking, despite what Graham said. Having said that so long as you have a shovel or Chemical toilet most would be obliging

In reply to Solaris:

definitely second Summer Day Valley as kid friendly...& Hollow Mtn is also worth a visit.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Bonus points if you can do/start any of the boulder problems in the cave up there!

In reply to bz: Save weight and but a cheap tent in Australia, the sun will wreck it if you are there for a while, just leave it when you depart.

Have had long trips to Oz with double and single ropes, you can make a single work, double better it doing lots of trad. Save further weight by leaving rope(s) if nearly worn out. Hey lots of STEEP routes to fall of at Araps.

Climbing gear is expensive so try and avoid buying in Australia, especially with the exchange rate.

Enjoy!

In reply to Solaris:

Thanks very much! Will check it out with my local contact, and see if he know that sector.

Thanks again.

In reply to barney800:

Funny...the last time i was there was 1999, and I must have walked straight past where Wheel of Life is....i'm not sure bouldering had been invented then :p

In reply to Morgan Woods:

That's a shame. You could have finished it off on the way down for dinner! I do find places like that rather humbling though. It's obscene what some people are capable of climbing.