/ Winter Self rescue
Good effort by those chaps.
I'd like to think I'd be as resourceful and composed in that situation.
I might just have a little sit down and a cry instead.
Wow. Lots of respect. I won't lie, when the words "uphill" "soft snow" and "another mile" came on the screen my heart actually sank. Loved the Touching the Void nod.
That's wicked. Great effort. I wish I had had a helmet cam on the grand cap.
hope i never have to emulate them!!
I presume that they just left one rope behind.
I wonder if having old fashioned ice-axes would have helped get out of there more quickly.Having a straight shaft and a decent point may have been able to give some support on the uphill soft snow.(Not particularly advocating old technology,just musing).
Great tenacity by both climbers and all credit to them for keeping their cool.
> Good stuff.
> I wonder if having old fashioned ice-axes would have helped get out of there more quickly.Having a straight shaft and a decent point may have been able to give some support on the uphill soft snow.
I think the chap's shattered ankle and a large hole in his quad possibly limited the speed of his escape more than the support from his axes ;)
Hence the crawl/drag out.
Ouch, ouch, and triple ouch. Standing half way up a cliff on a broken ankle is no fun. And while you're there you're already thinking (a) is this the end of my climbing career? (b) am I going to make it out of here? and (c) shit, why didn't I put more gear in on that last bit/ take a different route/ keep off the snowfield/ etc etc etc? Keeping it together when there's no helicopter coming for you can't be easy either.
Brilliant job getting out of trouble. Good job they had two ropes, and that the weather wasn't too bad. Shame they didn't carry walking poles, which would have helped on the hop-out.
I hope they both made full physical and mental recoveries.
I never realised American mixed routes could look this much like Scotland!
Fascinating, thanks for posting. Great effort by them. I might practise a spot of one-footed abseiling...
absolutley ace effort
Excellent. Not quite sure about Boney M's "brown girl in the ring" though ;-)
Ah yes. That makes sense now.
Have a peep at will gadds blog. He gives a great blurb about the vid with his usual enthusiasm.
Me i just keep whincing about the long crawl with no splint on the ankle. Jeezuz.
Impressive guys who kept it together.
Really impressive stuff.
(Good soundtrack too).
forgot to say, will put up some stuff from the guy who got mangled.
> with no splint on the ankle.
I was also wondering if an tied on ice axe would have stopped flopping, though assumed that if there had been some he would have sorted it anyway.
> I was wondering though, what is a ti-block and how does it work?
I hope that was not a wah: http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/multi-purpose-ascenders-0/tibloc
How is a Tibloc used whilst moving together as a protective measure? Is that what is being suggested?
Ive used one as an ascender and in hauling but I'm interested in other uses.
For tibloc substitute ropeman:
"Simul-climbing with Ropemen runners
On ice an effective mode of simul-climbing is to attach a Ropeman ascending device to the rope at each ice screw runner. If the second climber slips the Ropeman instantly locks the rope and prevents the load pulling the leader off. On ice the full length of the rope may be used with screws and Ropemen placed every 25-50m. This method could also be applied on rock pitches with fixed piton or bolt runners. The team needs to carry three or more Ropeman to apply this method over long stretches of terrain."
I think, and therefore may be wrong, that tibloc spikes grip the sheath and not the core, therefore tear the sheath from the core at about 400kg static, or 4kN dynamic load? If the cam action of the tibloc crushes the core, then it may be susceptible to cutting as discussed by Andy K, though I can't find the article adn he has a new website.
That was my first thought but having used the Tibloc in several systems and noting that it doesn't exactly run freely if pulled at an angle, I'd have though having this left between two climbers unattended would be potential hastle. A jammed Tibloc would leave the leader unable to continue and also unable to take in slack to put a second on belay. Having done no roped simul climbing this is all speculation. Anyone done this?
I've no experience of these kinds of set-ups, if the leader falls, doesn't that place enormous strain on the last piece if gear? Or does the tibloc only lock on one way? Sorry never used one.
Cool, good to know. Do you just clip it with a normal draw or a screwgate on a sling? I'll have a play with one sometime.
If the leader falls the strain on the last bit of gear is the same as a normal leader fall, the force goes down and pulls the second up, which should stop the fall. The tibloc/ropeman would cathc the second if they fell, stopping the load from passing to the leader and pulling them down.
Ben, I do similar to you and remember the tricky bits as I pass them, but instead of using an autobloc, try to find a stance or bolt when the second is near and body belay or direct belay them over it.
As I said a few posts ago, there is potential to damage the rope in falling onto ropemen or tiblocs, so I don't do it.
> only lock on one way?
Sorry. Yes it only locks one way.
Thanks for posting this. Great video.
Conditions looked like the Gorms on a good day!!!
Brilliant attitude on the pair of them- totally determined and positive all the way.
Great tunes too.
I think I would too, and then think about getting out. I'm amazed at how well he kept it together. I wonder if having a camera to narrate to helped at all, in providing a little bit of a distraction or a way of mentally distancing himself before getting on with escaping? Amazing fortitude either way.
The weight difference probably wouldn't slow you down though, i've got a couple of Ropemen 2 and have handled Tiblocs. I'd find a stripped rope a pain in the neck, but I guess it's a personal choice. May stripped ropes not plauge you. (:-))
Next time you think - hey - I live in a modern world and can just call 999 and folk will dash to my aid - why not take a leaf out of these guys' book and think - me and my mate can sort ourselves out.
We haven't lost self-reliance but most folk just want the easy option. As a member of a rescue team I totally agree that sometimes 999 might be the only option and I'm only happy to help, but quite a few people could have sorted themselves out.
Well done fellas and thanks for posting it George.
Cheers for the info mate.
Would you say that these folk you speak of are likely to be winter climbers?
Excellant video, essencial viewing for winter climbers. We all like to think we'd cope as well but when the shit hits the fan would we?
Don't show your mrs!
Hardy boys, maybe this is why the MR teams are so quiet?
Elsewhere on the site
This Winter Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are... Read more
If asked to name a British female climber who stood out at a time when British women's climbing wasn't... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
As a long-standing name in the UK rockshoe market, Scarpa have a loyal following and many much-loved models. As a fan... Read more