/ Ama Dablam
Ive read an article where two mountaineers went from lukla, summited and then was back in lukla in 16 days, i realise this will be a big ask but is it doable given no weather/acclimatisation issues?
Anyone done it with any advice?
Also does anyone know how i go about permits?
I just came back from Ama Dablam. Yes it's doable in 16 days. We made a return trip from Lukla in 11 days, with a day or two to spare at the end. However I'll recommend you to allow for more time, as the flight to Lukla is prone to delay by bad weather. We had to climb without a acclimatisation rest because of flight delays. Basically the planes can't take off/land when it's cloudy. The runway is amongst mountains and under 500m long! You can hire private choppers but they are very expensive.
On our way in our flight was canceled. After three days waiting in Kathmandu we decided to travel overland and walk to Lukla from Jiri. It took us three and a half days (recommended 8 days on guidebooks), plus another two days from Lukla to basecamp. The climb took us 4/5 days (1. base camp to camp 1, 2. optional rest day, 3. camp 1 to camp 2, 4. camp 2 to summit to camp 2, 5. camp 2 to base camp). There's two rest days at base camp/way out and 1.5 days to walk out. We would have put in more rest days at base camp if we had not booked our return flights. The food was incredible!
If you're planning to do the normal route (sw ridge), the whole route is covered with fixed ropes (in varying standards/conditions) and it seems to be what every one use. I've not seen any climbers carrying their own ropes. Apparently sherpas of the first team of each autumn will repair the existing fixed ropes. The old ones tend to be left laying around which can be messy and confusing. We hire a local company who deal with our permits, provide base camp catering and 4 sherpas to climb with us. The mountain tents are also set up by them as there is no room for more tents in some camps. They just leave their tents there for the whole season. This allowed us to climb with a relatively small rucksack (15-20kg) and climb in one push. For more detail you can read our blog here:
That sounds like a phenomenal feat of acclimatisation (Well done!). More what might be considered realistic for Mont Blanc than Ama Dablam! For many (most?) people far longer would be essential/desirable I think.
ps I once spent a month at Ama Dablam base camp and didn't make it above 6000m, but I am exceptionally crap at altitude.....
This might be of interest: http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/articles_read.html?id=4
It's a fairly 'typical' acclimatisation profile I should think. 6-7 days trek to BC, then at least one jaunt up to Camp 1, before going for the summit. I would day 16 days is tight and only for those who acclimatise v quickly and are v fit!
Finally managed to get some pics up of AMA Dablam November 2011 expedition.
Sony 77? Any excuse for a new camera! :-)
Fantastic gallery radson and well done
Damo, I actually felt really guilty buying the Sony, it was a last minute thing as I was walking through changi.
Thanks mr mills but for the record, i didn't summit. I turned around about an hour from the top.
Why rush it, gambling on being a good acclimatiser and risking failure and illness. Give yourself time, enjoy it and increase your chances of summiting.
Elsewhere on the site
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
The Grivel A&D Ascender & Descender is brand new for Autumn 2014 and incorporates a revolutionary and innovative patented... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more
From a personal point of view, photographing the night sky is one of the most difficult, frustrating yet ultimately rewarding... Read more
This survey is being conducted by the Outdoor Industries Association in order to find out more about how and why people... Read more