/ OI NEWS: VIDEO: Carabiners and Potential Rope Damage
This is because some types of protection, especially old steel pegs and steel plate bolts, can damage the inner surface of the relatively soft aluminium carabiner when loaded, leaving small rough burrs and score-marks.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=4272
you get a glimpse of it and it looks like it's significantly more burred than any of my biners in fact I'd probably have retired it by now even if it was used only on the gear end
That said I do try and keep my biners seperate, but let's face it, with other people using your rack and mistakes made etc, it's impossible to keep them 100% seperate.
Some of my biners are floating and get used for multiple uses (screw gates fall in to this category for me as well as some snap gates). I'll think I'll continue doing this TBH and just visually inspect the biners from time to time and retire them a bit sooner from this use if they start burring than the ones I know are going to be gear only.
I've climbed a fair bit (for a brit ;)) on both types of hangers and the gouges in that video are a fair bit worse than in any of my biners (I normally inspect mine about once per year and retire them if there are any big gouges). Mine have seem some pretty big falls on to those type of hangers too.
If you have bent and straight gate krabs its pretty easy, with my wire gate QDs I just tell anyone who is borrowing them my system - I have small krabs at the gear end and bigger krabs on the rope end. Seems quite intuitive, plus most of my QDs nowadays have a rubber thingy for the rope end.
yes for my quickdraws I also have a captive end and I use coloured biners for the gear end and normal ones on the rope. That said people still make mistakes (including myself ;)
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