/ Ceillac / Risoul area - ice climbing guidebook?

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ERU - on 04 Dec 2011
Hi all,

I'm skiing at Risoul (France) over the Christmas hols. I'm aware this is near 'Ceillac' and maybe other ice climbing venues?

I'm after roadside venues that might be easy enough to top rope if required. I'm going with the missus, so will need to be back on the slopes at some point in the day!

Can anyone recommend a guidebook? Or map? To get in advance:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=3484

Cheers
ERU - on 04 Dec 2011
I might try to get to La Grave too. What's the best guide for this area nowadays? I'm going to need to be organised for these quick dashes!
Hannah Appleton - on 04 Dec 2011
In reply to ERU:
Alpine Ice. The 600 best ice falls in the Alps. covers 5 countries but had the best routes in.
or:
The Alpine Club Ecrins Massif - has everything - mixed, alpine, summer etc
or:
Cascades Oisans aux 6 vallees - tome II - in french but available in the uk (got mine at needlesports online) has all the climbs in!
Jon Bracey - on 04 Dec 2011
In reply to ERU:
The guidebook to this area is 'Cascades de Glace Brianconnais-Argentierois-Embrunais' Etienne Fine & Philippe Turin 2005
Hannah Appleton - on 04 Dec 2011
In reply to ERU: There was a good article in the March issue of Climber about this area - might be worth trying to get hold of a back issue or seeing if the article is online...

ERU - on 05 Dec 2011
In reply to Hannah Appleton:

Cheers all. I already own the Ecrin Alpine Club one, so just ordered the Europe ice one too. I've seen it in the shops but resisted spending the money on it till now.

If anyone has the March issue of Climber I would be grateful for a scanned copy or something :)
iksander on 05 Dec 2011
mike kann - on 05 Dec 2011
In reply to ERU: There's Fournel and Fressiniere as well. I'm not sure whether you could get a rope long enough to toprope Forme de Chaos but it's got to be worth a try ;)
iksander on 05 Dec 2011
In reply to mike kann:
> (In reply to ERU)I'm not sure whether you could get a rope long enough to toprope Forme de Chaos but it's got to be worth a try ;)

You won't need that long a rope. When I did it the locals just walked round to the top and monopolised the last curtain pitch on top rope which spoiled it a bit for those who'd done the preceding 5 pitches

mike kann - on 05 Dec 2011
In reply to iksander: That IS a good pitch mind...
mike kann - on 05 Dec 2011
In reply to iksander: I particularly enjoyed the way 2 or 3 groups who couldn't be arsed to finish the route abed down on out heads as we were climbing up...
andyr - on 05 Dec 2011
In reply to mike kann:

The current guide is the bottom picture on the right hand side
http://www.alpineaccomodation.com/#/climbing-and-mountaineering/4532428441

You can normally buy it in Guillestre; either in LouTou sports http://www.loutousport.com/ opposite the Carrefour supermarket or either of the two 'maison de la presse' on the main street. Several shops in Ceillac as well.

Ceillac is a tiny but nice ski area as well. The parking is the same for both the skiing and ice falls, so both of you can enjoy the area http://www.ceillac.com/

Les Orres is another area where you can mix ice climbing and skiing. Parking for the ice falls is just off the access road to Bois Mean at the right hand end of the resort http://www.lesorres.com/images/stories/documents/hiver1112/plan-pistes2011-2012.pdf About 40 mins drive from Risoul via Embrun

Fress and Fournel are brilliant but you need the access roads to be open to the winter parking to fit in getting back to the slopes.

Enjoy
Dave Williams - on 05 Dec 2011
In reply to ERU:

There's a lot of essentially roadside ice climbing in the upper Ubaye valley as well as near Orcières (both reasonably close to Risoul) but whether either area will have routes that are in condition by Christmas is entirely another matter. Les Orres has also been mentioned but conditions there can be quite variable and I'd have some doubt as to whether the routes there would be 'in' by this Christmas, all things considered. Also, Les Orres is not exactly what I'd call 'roadside'.

Ceillac is always reliable, access is straightforward and is probably your best bet over Christmas. You can check http://www.ice-fall.com/ri/Conditions/de/glace/307.aspx for conditions at Ceillac (and elsewhere) nearer the time. Ceillac can be busy though [http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=137573] and it isn't really that practical a place for top roping (which, er, doesn't seem to occur to some of the locals!)

Hope this helps.

Dave
ads.ukclimbing.com
ERU - on 23 Dec 2011
Thanks for all the help guys! Awesome stuff!
I also came across this page for routes to go at:
http://teepakki.ayy.fi/climb/icehome/Icehome.htm

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