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Bouldering in SE England (Not Too Far From South London Area)

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Strongbeard 09 Dec 2011
Hi,

Having recently moved from Scotland back to London, where would be the best place in SE England for V1/V2/V3 (emphasis on the first two grades) boulder problems? Any classics I should attempt?

Cheers
 PeterJuggler 09 Dec 2011
In reply to Bolton: The Mabley Green or Shoreditch Park boulders. Otherwise southern sandstone to the south. A new bouldering guide was released this year. You can find bouldering at all the main crags but High rocks and Bowles are probably the best, although mainly harder problems. The North boulder at Harrison's has quite a few problems at the lower end.
http://www.mountain-trips.co.uk/boulder_menu.html
i.munro 09 Dec 2011
In reply to PeterJuggler:

> .Otherwise southern sandstone to the south. A new bouldering guide was released this year.

Unfortunately that guide chooses to place very little emphasis on a number of important points.
Among these are :

The already extremely fragile rock becomes even more so when damp so should not be climbed except when perfectly dry.

Sandstone tends to hold water & In a typical winter it's unusual to find more than a couple of small areas perfectly dry.

The North boulder at Harrison's is, however, among the faster drying areas.

 tom_greenwich 09 Dec 2011
In reply to Bolton:

If you're in North/East direction then head to Fairlop waters (see the logbook for details).

otherwise, plenty of indoor walls
 Fluvial 09 Dec 2011
In reply to Bolton:
> Hi,
>
> Having recently moved from Scotland back to London, where would be the best place in SE England for V1/V2/V3 (emphasis on the first two grades) boulder problems? Any classics I should attempt?
>
> Cheers

The best place I know whould be about 180 miles back up the M6 its certainly the nearest quality place. Called the Peak District, should of stayed North of the border buddy. I believe Dartmoor way is OK though
 Scrump 09 Dec 2011
In reply to Bolton:
If you do go down the southern sandstone PLEASE PLEASE be careful. Clean your shoes before you climb and make sure its totally dry. Its very very easy to damage and has taken quite a beating in the last few years.
To be honest as well there is very little bouldering below Font 6A (V3ish i think). Routes are probably a better bet, they are all pretty short anyway.
Strongbeard 09 Dec 2011
In reply to Bolton: Cheers folks!

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