/ Which size "stubby" Ice Screw 10cm or 13cm

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ecotom - on 13 Dec 2011
Hi,

I have read a couple of spanish sites describing the 10cm screw as for aiding only. Is it considered sufficient for leader falls on good ice? I want to get one for climbing gullies where decent ice might be pretty thin but to also use as one of my screws for climbing icefalls - probably placed last when there is a lot of rope out to limit impact etc.
I have 16cm screws so the drop to 13cm as my "stubby" screw doesn't seem that significant.
Any advice/thoughts appreciated!

Tom
ice.solo - on 13 Dec 2011
In reply to ecotom:

if its a laser/sonic then id have at least one.

as its the thread thats holding most of the force in the fall, theres as much thread on a 10cm as on a longer screw.

a 13cm you could tie off may be even better tho, the extra few cms when available in the ice will be appreciated.
iksander on 13 Dec 2011
In reply to ecotom: I don't think 10cm screws are CE rated, hence the guidance for progression/aid only. Doesn't mean they're useless for protection though.

Take a look at this: strikerescue.com/file_download/1

I think they only tested Grivel and Petzl screws, which I think are 13cm screws but they still reported respectable loads placed facing downwards and in *good ice* - which is the key thing no matter what length the screw

CurlyStevo - on 13 Dec 2011
In reply to iksander:
I'm pretty sure the 10cm BD express screws are UIAA rated.
ecotom - on 13 Dec 2011
In reply to ice.solo:

Isn't a shorter screw up to the hilt much better than a tied-off screw though?
Mr Andersson - on 13 Dec 2011
In reply to ecotom:
> (In reply to ice.solo)
>
> Isn't a shorter screw up to the hilt much better than a tied-off screw though?

I would think so. Especially since a short (or maybe any screw) should be have a negative angle, facing down, so tying off is fairly tricky.
CurlyStevo - on 13 Dec 2011
In reply to ecotom:
http://www.needlesports.com/catalogue/content.aspx?con_id=095232e4-4caf-49ec-8495-9c9e00a633da

"The best option is to simply place a screw of the appropriate length and not have to worry about tie offs altogether."

Seen other stuff saying the same thing too
ecotom - on 13 Dec 2011
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Yeah I read the BD report on Needlesports' site too. It made me think a 10cm screw fully wound-in would be better than a 13cm sticking out and tied-off. I will probably go with the 10cm screw.

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