Cut and Pasted from my Blog which has the images-
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A fortnight of freeze thaw conditions, with a few mental storms thrown in, has left some great climbing. Firstly a teaser- The Smear, V, which has porbably not had a second ascent since 1979, has a good start going.
I climbed directly up the broad West Face of Bruach na Frithe from Tairnilear which gave over 2000ft on snow taking a grade II line fairly directly to the summit of Bruach na Frithe on the left. The face appears fairly featureless from below but the huge scale soon threw up route choices and plenty to concentrate the brain. A crunchy start then short mixed band soon became well consolidated snow with accumulations of powder that never became more than a few inches in depth (so no avalanche worries). In the top 600ft (200m) I was able to take my pick of really beautiful solid steps of ice. With calves burning it was good to finally top out a few minutes from the summit.
On the Ridge there was a good narrow line of well consolidated neve running pretty much continuously with a complete covering of thinner snow filling in the gaps. Looking southwards these conditions appeared to be pretty uniform. Worth weather watching for a Traverse possibility for sure.
Route possibilities were everywhere but the best looking option was White Dreams. This huge route takes a direct line up the south face of Sgurr nan Gillean from Lota Corrie and hasn’t received a second ascent.
I carried on past Bruach na Frithe to Bealach na Lice for a close look at the north face of Am Basteir and the Bhasteir faces of Pinnacle Ridge. Although not as snowy as I’ve often seen it I’d guess the quality of ice & neve will make almost any route on these faces a good option just now. There’s a couple of better known exceptions but even they could be good after todays storms.
The descent down Fionn Choire was one of the easiest under foot I’ve ever had and the next strorm was just building nicely as I got back.
Everything is going to look a lot whiter when things calm down on Thursday. There’ll probably be deep drifts on lee slopes to watch out for but plenty to go for.
If you haven’t got your guidebook yet I’ve got a stock you can collect as you arrive or get sent out to you. Check the website www.skyeguides.co.uk
