UKC

"winter" climbing conditions...

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dan 20 Dec 2011
Just been reading about Siberian tiger on the home page and its got me thinking... judging on the picture and from my own experience a lot of Scottish winter climbing is on frosty rock with a bit of ice and snow in the cracks.
Since tools are being used to get up, yes some of the axe and crampon placements will be in snow/ice but most will essentially be dry tooling,. what would be the issue rocking up to the same crag in the summer and dry tooling up?
There isn`t really that much difference is there?
 Milesy 20 Dec 2011
In reply to dan:

Search the forums. It gets discussed/argued approx every 3 days!
 liz j 20 Dec 2011
In reply to dan:
Pulls up a chair and opens the popcorn....
Tim Chappell 20 Dec 2011
In reply to dan:


Be sure to wrap up warm underneath that bridge.
dan 20 Dec 2011
In reply to Tim Chappell:
> (In reply to dan)
>
>
> Be sure to wrap up warm underneath that bridge.
I have my down jacket and some tools for when it gets chilly
ice.solo 20 Dec 2011
In reply to dan:

winter 'mixed' is tradition. the founding fathers of our chosen pursuit did it. it dares not be questioned. the ice is there because they say it is.

drytooling is something young punks with no concern for humanity do, its the devils work and should be exorcised from our midst.
dan 20 Dec 2011
In reply to ice.solo: Like the fine line between madness and genius?
ice.solo 20 Dec 2011
In reply to dan:

similar.

if you did it in the 60s with a hemp rope and woollen mits youre a genius. if you risk the cross burning mobs by doing these days youre mad.
 Dr.S at work 20 Dec 2011
In reply to ice.solo:
> (In reply to dan)
>
> similar.
>
> if you did it in the 60s with a hemp rope and woollen mits youre a genius. if you risk the cross burning mobs by doing these days youre mad.

good points, but dare i ask, what have you ever done on grit?
In reply to dan:

In for a penny in for a pound, such an emotive issue for winter climbers, for a start the turf would not be frozen, so would damage a fragile eco systems, other than that the damage caused by steel on rock would be the same, but you are right to a certain extent, whether plastered in snow and rime or bare but frozen the difference is an aesthetic one, the proliferation of very hard snowed up rock routes means to a certain extent that the more cosmetic the covering the better for success and so is subjective, applying the self imposed ethics of the winter practitioner, a wintery apearance increases the challenge and at the end of the day is a sort of subterfuge, i think to a certain extent the strong winter ethic in the UK, is a way of convincing ourselves that the mountains are bigger and higher like the alps.

When the strong winter aesthetic is adhered to it is amazing to see what can be achieved these days, hard winters in recent years take no prisoners and to a certain extent enforce this maxim, routes such as Siberian Tiger really are pushing the boundaries of what is possible with a gungho attitude.
 Robert Durran 20 Dec 2011
In reply to dan:
> Since tools are being used to get up, yes some of the axe and crampon placements will be in snow/ice but most will essentially be dry tooling,. what would be the issue rocking up to the same crag in the summer and dry tooling up?


No issue in my opinion, except that it would feel pointless and contrived because it would be so much easier to climb it with hands and rock boots.
dan 20 Dec 2011
In reply to Robert Durran: I`ve been up winter routes supposedly in condition in Scotland and thought the same,n but it would have been a bit cold on the fingers!
 Rog Wilko 20 Dec 2011
In reply to dan: Posibly time to invent the term wet-tooling for this activity.
ice.solo 20 Dec 2011
In reply to Dr.S at work:
> (In reply to ice.solo)
> [...]
>
> good points, but dare i ask, what have you ever done on grit?

i knew this day would come.

nothing.
but ive got lots of shiny gear
 DR 21 Dec 2011
In reply to Hay:
Brilliant! Hard men for hard times.

Davie

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