/ NEWS: Dan Varian Ground-Ups E9 7b - The Dark Side

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UKC News - on 20 Dec 2011
Dan Varian repeating The Dark Side (E9 7b) Ground-Up, 3 kbDan Varian has made the long-awaited second ascent of The Dark Side at Back Bowden Doors.

Dan climbed this E9 7b ground-up...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=65648

GuyVG - on 20 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Dan, look forward to the blog post as it reads like a knee trembler
jacobjlloyd - on 20 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News: sick!!! Look forward to more details - an awesome achievement in british climbing, and internationally
GrahamD - on 20 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Wow, I hadn't even twigged that the 7b grade had finally stuck for routes - how many others are there ?
Arms Cliff - on 20 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News: Amazing! look forward to hearing Dan's thoughts re the grades in terms that will actually make sense (i.e. font).
lanky and weak - on 20 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News: wad.
Duncan Campbell - on 21 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News: Awesome effort!
Niall Grimes - on 21 Dec 2011
Great stuff Dan :-)
Graeme Read - on 21 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News:

This really is a history making ascent.....as far as I am aware the handful of other E9's that have been climbed ground up/at second attempt have had a technical grade of 6c (still mega impressive don't get me wrong) but the Dark Side is 7b!!

Imagine setting off on a route on sight knowing that you will be confronted by a British 7b move? Stunning effort
DAVETHOMAS90 - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Can we get some alternative numbers for Dan's effort? And maybe some more info about the accent?

How about quoting the bouldering grade, V or Font. Number of mats used. E9 means something quite specific to me, as does ground up vs "pad up". It would be great if we could describe top end ascents of this nature by using language that makes it easier to make comparisons with other first class high ball efforts around the world. Surely.

If this was a truly ground up accent - ie no
mats - Dan deserves greater applause. Maybe the E grade was given apropos the sport - albeit high ball - climbing intensity. Again, the font or V grade may be better.

Maybe we need a high-ball grade, to reflect the current vogue? Or use the V/Font grade in a similar way to the 5th class grade in the U.S. with the added suffix h/hx?

I'm probably (possibly!) not the only person who wants to know what the language used means. We all grow accustomed to using words in contexts that may contradict their use in other contexts.

It is of course, not only this accent which has inspired me to write this, and there is a purity of style in Dan's approach which is inspiring. I'm a secret fan, but I want to know what I'm applauding.

Dave T.
DAVETHOMAS90 - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to DAVETHOMAS90:

Please read ascent for "accent"!
johncoxmysteriously - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to DAVETHOMAS90:

The blog linked to from the news item says he had mats (is it linked? Anyway the blog by the fellow who describes it).

jcm
tallsop on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one, what a beast! Really interesting account on blog too, good read, cheers!

Effort!
Andy Moles - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to DAVETHOMAS90:

Dan's account is now on the Beastmaker blog: http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/blogs/news/4980292-the-dark-side-of-bouldering-is-trad

Sounds like it's quite hard.
shark - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to DAVETHOMAS90:

Hi Dave,

Your christmas wish has been granted and then some.
johncoxmysteriously - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to Andy Moles:

Some controversial observations there.......

One of which is Nosferatu at Font 7a, which I would say was out by about a full number grade.

jcm
shark - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I see Nefretiti, Navana and Narcissus but no Nosferatu
peterp - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Can someone please tell me what a "wad" is..?

Much obliged,
peterp
johncoxmysteriously - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to shark:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> I see Nefretiti, Navana and Narcissus but no Nosferatu

Absolutely true. I'm talking bollocks.

Mind, that does leave at least one other controversial observation....

jcm
shark - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> Mind, that does leave at least one other controversial observation....
>
> jcm


Do you have soft spot for greenfly?

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On.it - on 23 Dec 2011

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