In reply to UKC News:
Can we get some alternative numbers for Dan's effort? And maybe some more info about the accent?
How about quoting the bouldering grade, V or Font. Number of mats used. E9 means something quite specific to me, as does ground up vs "pad up". It would be great if we could describe top end ascents of this nature by using language that makes it easier to make comparisons with other first class high ball efforts around the world. Surely.
If this was a truly ground up accent - ie no
mats - Dan deserves greater applause. Maybe the E grade was given apropos the sport - albeit high ball - climbing intensity. Again, the font or V grade may be better.
Maybe we need a high-ball grade, to reflect the current vogue? Or use the V/Font grade in a similar way to the 5th class grade in the U.S. with the added suffix h/hx?
I'm probably (possibly!) not the only person who wants to know what the language used means. We all grow accustomed to using words in contexts that may contradict their use in other contexts.
It is of course, not only this accent which has inspired me to write this, and there is a purity of style in Dan's approach which is inspiring. I'm a secret fan, but I want to know what I'm applauding.
Dave T.
Dan Varian has made the long-awaited second ascent of The Dark Side at Back Bowden Doors.
