UKC

Sorry, no picture! Only a (likely v.poor) description.

Starts where resolution direct starts (up the pillar I think) but kinda goes pretty much direct in 2 or 3 pitches. The main feature was the headwall that was about 50m up (after 15/20m of a slightly rightwards grotty groove of easy climbing) that has two very prominent parallel cracks at the top. The right one was wider and required hand jams, the left one thinner and had a peg at the top. After this was a slab with a massive flake going a bit left pretty much to the top. I think were resolution direct finishes.

Anyone know this route? Its not in the GU selective and I dont have the definitive guide. We have possibly linked 2 routes as the headwall cracks seems very stiff compared the rest of the route.

Si

In reply to snoop6060: An indication of how hard it felt might be useful?

In reply to Removed User:

I couldnt tell you really. I took a whipper from the cracks at the top. I can defo say these cracks were harder than the cracks at the top of aardvark, and miles harder than the strand (the only 2 other routes I had done there). It could still only be E1 mind Though I would be suprised if it was. Really shallow slippy and painful jams seemed to be the order of the day.

In reply to snoop6060:


Erm, Resolution Direct?

In reply to Tyler:


That's what it sounds like. Same start. Same finish. Direct. Hard cracks on middle pitch.

In reply to snoop6060: Sounds just like resolution direct to me.

In reply to conorcussell:

Did you stray onto Achilles higher up? The upper wall has 2 cracks - the left one has a peg and is Coming On Strong. The right one is Achilles, a great pitch and solid at the grade.

In reply to Anonymous:

That defo sounds like it to me, it wasnt resolution direct, thats in my guide. It was right of RD and is as you describe. Two cracks, both look hard, the left one I attempted first and it was nails (peg at the top of the crack?), the right one is tough too, tough e3 sounds right.

Cheers!