/ THE LOWDOWN: 9a's by the French in Spain

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Björn Pohl - UKC - on 23 Dec 2011
Dani Andrada on Era Bella, 9a, Margalef, 4 kbAs seem to have become a tradition, many of the French top climbers spend this time a year in Catalu˝a, Spain. Not that this is in anyway limited to the French.
16 year old wiz kid Enzo Oddo has spent a lot of time on the classic La Rambla original, 9a+, in the El Pati sector at Siurana. After...

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abarro81 - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to Bj÷rn Pohl - UKC:
"The extension doesn't really add much, if anything, to the difficulty" I thought I remembered reading that Ramon fell off the end a bunch when trying the extension - you have to get a hold with the other hand if you're going to keep going and that's one of the hard moves? Maybe I'm misremembering..
Niall Grimes - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to abarro81: Was Der Huber's version ever repeated?
progrupicola - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to Niall Grimes:
> (In reply to abarro81) Was Der Huber's version ever repeated?

Huber lowered off from the first anchor (Hard 8c+)and then to second one makes the extension dubbed ''La rambla original'' also bolted by Huber but (he)never made it to the second.
Niall Grimes - on 23 Dec 2011
In reply to progrupicola: Yes, I know, but the article suggests that Huber's was knocking on 9a itself and just wondered if it was repeated or was Ramonet's the second ascent.
witnessthis - on 24 Dec 2011
In reply to Niall Grimes: I watched Dani Andrada try and do the extension several times between 1998 and 2001.I think I saw him repeat the Huber rt and then anounce possible 9a.I believe the extension includes harder moves up and past Hubers belay chain that was originaly grabbed to clip-though this might be totaly wrong.If you need clear details of A.Hubers ascent contact Tobias at Jositos camp it was either him or Jorst that held A.Hubers rope on his eventual redpoint.
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progrupicola - on 25 Dec 2011
Looking up for all the crossing routes and variants in the diagram of the David Brasco's Siurana guidebook (11-2010)are listed four routes from Huber ; Broadway 8c+ (First ascent Andrada),La rambla 8c+ (F.A. Huber),La rambla original 9a+ (to the second anchor F.A. Ramonet) and then La reina mora 8c+ (F.A. Ramonet who suggest hard 8c,second by Favresse who suggest 8c+,and recently the third by Andrada who thinks it weights like a 8c+/9a or even 9a ) Calling Huber and Ramonet sandbaggers??...or must be the other way...or something in between..only they must know..
Sorry for the rambling


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