/ Anglezarke News

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Mark Collins - on 26 Dec 2011
I popped down there this morning in the hope that sonmething might be dry.

3 bolts have been placed by person or persons unknown for a number of months now, on the descent between Walt's Wall and Lower Walls. They are not on any route and I can only speculate on their purpose. Just thought you ought to know:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=188665

Also, some young trees (mainly silver birch) positioned close to the bottom of Walt's Wall, Lower Walls, Left Wall, Golden Tower and Low Wall have been marked with red dots. Again, I can only speculate as to why but I suspect that they will be felled. This should in my opinion open the place up a bit, and reduce the green on the rock. Either that or multiple tree based red points are imminent.
Lankyman - on 26 Dec 2011
In reply to Mark Collins: Mark Collins: just seen this message, Mark - comments on the photo!
Re the red dots, I'd say you're right thinking tree felling. We did a similar job in Trowbarrow last week below Washday Wall. Anglezarke needs some major tree surgery!
Graeme Hammond - on 26 Dec 2011
In reply to Mark Collins:

i thought the bolts where strange too a few months ago when i visited given the rock below the bolts is not high enough and not in a useful position for abseiling and and the is no route below. Also the bolts are also positioned in the wrong orientation for rigging any sort of system to protect the decent as the descent goes in the other direction.
Lunar25 - on 27 Dec 2011
In reply to Mark Collins: My only thought is slack lining.... is there a suitable high line route that could be set up from these?
Mark Collins - on 28 Dec 2011
In reply to Lunar25: In reply to Lunar25: Interesting thought. I guess that's possible across the corner to the next arete on the right (facing in). Either around the arete or more probably over the top of the heather you see in the picture. I haven't checked if there are similar bolts on what would be the target arete.

In the early nineties I remember a death slide being rigged from the top of the Golden Tower to a mound in the middle of the quarry (there were far fewer trees then). Perhaps the idea is to rig a highline from the top of the Golden Tower all the way across to the bolts, although as they are at different levels this seems unlikely.

The only other thought I had, is that the bolts have been placed in a conspicuous site, to test the water. If no one complains, put more bolts in, who knows. I did spot crampon scratches on the Lower Wall and reported them here a year or more ago. Dry tooling?!?!
Mark Collins - on 02 Jan 2012
In reply to Mark Collins: I was there again this morning making use of a break in the rain, and noticed another similar bolt around the arete from the others on a route called Minor (HVS 5c). I'll take some tools and remove it on my next trip, unless anyone has an objection?
Mark Collins - on 18 Jan 2012
In reply to Mark Collins:I removed it this evening.
wilkie14c - on 18 Jan 2012
In reply to Mark Collins:
Good work Mark. Angles is one of my local venues and I object to bolts there apart from the historical bolts/pegs.
Bulls Crack - on 18 Jan 2012
In reply to blanchie14c:
> (In reply to Mark Collins)
> Good work Mark. Angles is one of my local venues and I object to bolts there apart from the historical bolts/pegs.

So when do they become historical then?
Pekkie - on 18 Jan 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> >
> 'So when do they become historical then?'

When the locals can't be arsed to remove them, of course! As one of them thar locals, my understanding is that bolts are only allowed for belays and then only where there is no alternative - eg on the Coal Measure Crag.

Bulls Crack - on 18 Jan 2012
In reply to Pekkie:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
> [...]
>
> When the locals can't be arsed to remove them, of course! As one of them thar locals, my understanding is that bolts are only allowed for belays and then only where there is no alternative - eg on the Coal Measure Crag.

History is written by the victors! ;-)
wilkie14c - on 18 Jan 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:
When its part of the route and there are plenty of them in the lancs quarries - The cemented peg at the top of Shivers arete that makes the crux move a dream to do because of the secutrity it implies, the ancient peg on terra cotta thats as thin as a razor blade and you just know it'll never hold a whipper but your just glad to clip it anyway after that move around the arete and the sketchy move up the wall, the infamous spinning bolt out above the pond on the complete streaker...
They are part of these routes and every lancs climber will know these bits of ironwork. I don't like the thought of drilling and bolting in my adopted local crags, these routes were put up real hard men in hard times and they didn't need bolts then.
Ian Hill on 19 Jan 2012
In reply to blanchie14c:

Curious how quickly these things become 'part of these routes', Shivers ArÍte for instance when I first did it in the early 80s very much had no peg and that was why it got its E3 5b grade, the peg appeared a few years after that and now it seems has become 'historical'...but the no peg situation is even more historical...
Enty - on 19 Jan 2012
In reply to Ian Hill:

I never knew that - Shivers was my first E1 (about 1986?) and there was definitely a peg there looking quite old then if I recall.

E
Mick Ward - on 19 Jan 2012
In reply to Mark Collins:

> I removed it this evening.

Good effort.

Mick

Phil Kelly - on 19 Jan 2012
In reply to Ian Hill:
> (In reply to blanchie14c)
>
> Curious how quickly these things become 'part of these routes', Shivers ArÍte for instance when I first did it in the early 80s very much had no peg and that was why it got its E3 5b grade, the peg appeared a few years after that and now it seems has become 'historical'...but the no peg situation is even more historical...

Nah.... there was a peg in the past, but it was removed a couple of times. It did get up to E3 5b quite rightly if done without, but wasn't popular that way so John put in the cemented on that everyone sees nowadays.

I seem to recall though that the placement was a bit flared (it had been placed and removed a few times remember) and to secure it and to make sure it wasn't robbed, John cemented it in place.

BTW, apart from being around 30 years old, it was also quite short. Might even have been sawn off.

Phil
Phil Kelly - on 19 Jan 2012
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to Ian Hill)
>
> I never knew that - Shivers was my first E1 (about 1986?) and there was definitely a peg there looking quite old then if I recall.

Definitely there in 86 Ent.
wilkie14c - on 19 Jan 2012
In reply to Phil Kelly:
Well before my time then Phil, I moved to the area in 92 and first did shivers 93 or 4. Its at least 25+ years old then
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Phil Kelly - on 19 Jan 2012
In reply to blanchie14c:

> Its at least 25+ years old then

It was placed around 1981/82 IIRC. I think it was actually mentioned in the climbing press at the time, and quite a few people suddenly rushed to do it.

It became the first extreme lead of choice for many climbers.

Not sure I'd want to fall onto the peg these days though.

Phil

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