/ Petzl Nomic Griprest

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Mike Nolan - on 29 Dec 2011
Has this all been sorted by Petzl now? I've seen a few posts and blogs saying the fix on the new axes is still causing problems, but I'd like something definitive before I spend 300 on Nomics! Would I be better off with Fusions, or is the Nomic fix fine?

Thanks
Mike
smithaldo - on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to Mike Nolan: I like the fusions better as they have a full clippable spike on the bottom without having to prat about with cord through a hole and hammers on them as well, which cost extra for the nomics.

To be fair they are just about exactly the same axes anyway.

Another reason I didnt like them and sent them back before the problems was because when I adjusted the handle to fit the cord, the bolt then went right through the other side and you could feel it pressing against your hand even with gloves on, which didnt seem right for top end axes!

have you thought about the ergos? Reviews are outstanding.
Mike Nolan - on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to smithaldo: When I tried fusions and Nomics, I preferred the swing of the Nomics. I don't get on with the top heavy BD axes very well (I've currently got the orange Vipers). So I would rather get Nomics than Fusions. interesting what you say about the bolt, I've not heard of this issue before.

The Ergos get fantastic reviews, but I can't get them for the 300, like I can for fusions or Nomics, so I don't really want to spend more than that.

Mike
cliff shasby - on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to Mike Nolan:
hi,ive climbed with nomics for 6-7 years, a couple of years ago although entirely happy with the nomics i bought a pair of fusions just because they were cheaper than half price just to give them a go,i did one climb in them and twice had the axe creept out and nearly popped on me,something that has never ever happened to the nomics,now for sure you can say after hundreds of pitches with the nomics i climb with a style that suits that axe,but i just dont think they stick as well when used with multiple hand positions,i.e. half way up on top/mantle etc..
i never climbed with them again and still sold them for a profit..!
maybe for easier angled/alpine stuff they are a better axe for daggering/plunging etc...

cliff....`
iksander on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to Mike Nolan: Can you post these links please?
Dane1 - on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to smithaldo:

> To be fair they are just about exactly the same axes anyway.


One might think by first impression but they are not...not even close.

I've used the new green Fusions alot as well as the Nomic.

Most will find the Nomic much easier to climb mixed or ice with. Lots of reasons for that. Biggest imo is the quality of the Petzl picks. But that is just the beginning. Fusion is a good dry tool. Ice? Not so much.
Dane1 - on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to Mike Nolan:
> Has this all been sorted by Petzl now?

Sorry, should have answered the original question.
Certainly not fixed to everyone's satisfation as a few of the new ones have been failing. But it is much better. And Petzl will quickly replace most anything that does fails. Still a better option for most than the other tools available.
Edvin m on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to Dane1: Those that have failed, is it just the insert and/or the pommel? Or is it the whole shaft?
matt hughes - on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to Mike Nolan: I have also heard that the problem is not completely fixed, but petzl are brilliant at rectifying any problems. I have a pair of Nomics, a pair of Fusions and a pair of Cobras and out of all three i climb with the Nomics the most, for scottish mixed and dry tooling. for pure ice climbing i use the Cobras because i like the top heavy swing on them, but i find when mixed climbing there is a lot of pick shift when matching on the tool. Have not really given the Fusions a fair crack really yet because the Nomics climb solid, and feel so responsive. the Fusions are currently relegated to the garage for training at the moment.
Dane1 - on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to Edvin m:
> Those that have failed, is it just the insert and/or the pommel? Or is it the whole shaft?

Just the new insert..which controls the pommel.

The inserts loosen and once you remove the bolt can fall out. But not many failing from what I have heard to date. But then never heard of the original design ever failing.
Damo on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to Dane1:
> (In reply to smithaldo)
>
> [.... Fusion is a good dry tool. Ice? Not so much.

Dane, are you using the Laser pick on ice or the stock one? I heard they climb ice much better with the Laser.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Dane1 - on 30 Dec 2011
In reply to Damo:

> Dane, are you using the Laser pick on ice or the stock one? I heard they climb ice much better with the Laser.

Yes a well tuned Laser at that. Better than the Fusion pick obviously for pure ice. But that is a no brainier. I've also recut Petzl picks and used them and custom picks in the Fusion. Lot of reasons the Fusion doesn't climb ice well in comparison. Picks are just the start of the discussion.


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