/ Knot name

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deadpoet - on 29 Dec 2011
Hi there,

could you please someone inform me about the name of the knot I will try to describe :

It is essential that we have two identical karabiners next to each other, we then clip the rope on both of them, take one end of the rope under both karabiners and clip the rope only on one of the karabiners. This has a result that the rope only feeds on way and on the other way it is blocked. In Greece we call heart knot.....It can be used when you want to block someone and then release him, if you do not have a blocking device.

Hope the description was not too bad :)
Cheers for the help
kos_os - on 29 Dec 2011
deadpoet - on 29 Dec 2011
In reply to kos_os:

that was quick. Thanks a lot
davidbeynon - on 05 Jan 2012
In reply to kos_os:

I have known about the alpine clutch for ages, but never actually used one except to practice setting it up. Does anyone have any idea about its reliability & limitations?

I'm guessing like most things it wants a prusik or similar to back it up, but other than that..
escalator on 05 Jan 2012
In reply to davidbeynon:

I've used it quite a lot, and not had one slip. However, you need to pay particular attention to ensuring that the karabiners are lying right, and wont move. I have found that some karabiners don't lend themselves to it very well. Use what you have and see which work best.
colina - on 05 Jan 2012
In reply to escalator:
the alpine clutch only works one way .ie, you can haul someone up on it in an energency (if youve got arms like popeye) but you cannot release it to lower someone back down .
an excellent knot never the less.i have been told it works best with 2 oval carabiners but not tried this so wouldnt like to comment
escalator on 05 Jan 2012
In reply to colina:

Nevertheless is one word.
Swirly - on 05 Jan 2012
In reply to escalator:
> (In reply to davidbeynon)
>
> I've used it quite a lot, and not had one slip. However, you need to pay particular attention to ensuring that the karabiners are lying right, and wont move. I have found that some karabiners don't lend themselves to it very well. Use what you have and see which work best.

I find it works best on krabs with a fairly tight bend. I use one for the foot sling when prussicing as I find it easy to pull up the sling if I keep the dead rope hanging over my shoulder.

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colina - on 05 Jan 2012
In reply to escalator:
congratulations escalator you passed the test.i wondered who would be the first person to correct my spelling "mistake".
well done.

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