UKC

Breaking News! New Speed Record in El Chorro!

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 Thelongcon 13 Jan 2012
It was another drunken evening in El Chorro. As two climbers, Australian Andrew Mortimer and Brit Andy Tappa became steadily more intoxicated, challenges began to take shape. After much debate and swearing they came up with a truly epic challenge. The speed ascent of El Chorro's classic multi pitch, Amptrax. As no record existed, training was essential, so they continued to drink beer and eat their pickled jalapenoes.

Greeting the cold dawn of day, arguing slightly over the effectivness of hair of the dog, the pair set off on their historical attempt. Arriving at the base of Amptrax, they then wasted 40 bloody minutes trying to find the damn thing. The giant Antrax [sic] scrawl was a bit of a hint as to where it was. Using this as the starting point, the junk show raced up until the final pitch.

With Andy Tappa on the sharp end, and Andrew Mortimer seconding, they put all their speed climbing knowledge to use. Since their knowledge was limited to things they had learnt whilst watching the Reel Rock Film Tour 2012 a few nights prior, the safety aspect was, at best, dubious. Once Andrew had slapped the painted 'eye' directly below the final anchors, they considered the speed ascent complete.

The (onsight) speed climbing record of Amptrax has been set at 1hr, 3mins and 5secs on a hungover 12/01/2012. Simultaneously climbed by the unusual pairing of Australian Andrew Mortimer and Brit Andy Tappa. Putting national pride aside, the two free climbed all 8 pitches (only occasionally shouting racial abuse at each other).

The record is set to be broken, anyone visiting El Chorro give it a try
 Stone Muppet 13 Jan 2012
Nice one.

Well before anyone else claims it, me and Paz managed about 6 hours for an ascent including the final trad pitches back in 2002. Obviously this is the official record until anyone declares they managed better... 15 minutes of fame here I come...
 Roberttaylor 13 Jan 2012
In reply to Andrewmorts: That's pretty cool, I look forward to climbing Amptrax next time I'm in EC.
 James Oswald 13 Jan 2012
In reply to Andrewmorts:
That's quite fast.
We spent about 3.5 hours on amptrax and 4 hours on an epic descent in the dark! Was this all 8 pitches, or the first 5 like lots of people do.
Since the Rockfax guide was written the final 3 have been bolted and are worth doing.
 Johann 13 Jan 2012
In reply to Andrewmorts:

Shoe in for the piolet d'or
OP Thelongcon 13 Jan 2012
In reply to James Oswald:

Yes sir, all eight pitches of joy. If you can shout Amercianisms at one another, it'll help you "send it like a postcard bro!"

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