/ NEW REVIEW: Boulder Britain By Niall Grimes
"Often we don't know what we want until we get it, Steve Jobs understood that, and so does Niall Grimes..."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4426
Please buy this book so that Niall can pay me back the tenner he owes me.
£25?! Who has that money to spare. I know what i'd rather buy with £25. Open source is the future, no more easy money for money-grabbers.
Strange thing to say. The quality of this guide is not something one can produce open-source.
I've got boulder britain and its brilliant - nice one Grimer. Lots of places in it that I didnt even know existed!
My girlfriend bought me this book for Christmas. I must be honest, I wouldn't have bought it if she hadn't got it for me but it's been very useful and I've used it several times.
It's dead handy for when you're in an area you don't usually go to but you're there for a few days. I've got a peak bouldering guide and that's where I do most of my bouldering but occasionally stop by Dartmoor, Dinas Rock, etc. The other day I found myself in Yorkshire for an exam and this book was perfect for the day I spent there. Saves you having to have many guide books!
A great guidebook and a good review. Can't understand the curmudgeonly comments posted above - well worth 25 quid. Nice quote from the book:
"If Pex Hill was a boyfriend, being brought home for the first time, then the prospective in-laws would certainly have reservations. Rough and tough, with a whiff of glue. But if daughter brought Harmers Wood home then mother would break out an approving sigh of relief. Tea would be served in china cups."
Imagine if daughter brought home The Breck (also in the book)? Needle-scarred forearms, 'love' and 'hate' tattooed on the knuckles. Pit-Bull straining at the leash. Mother would bolt the doors and call the police.
a good review but a shame that Mr Ryan could not restrain himself from shamelessly plugging UKlog for several lines, before launching into it. Congrats on getting it out Grimer, I hope everyone on the planet buys a copy. Actually scrub that, the crags might get a bit crowded then.
Don't worry about that, I bought a copy and haven't bouldered since (although that's nothing to do with the guide).
.....and he was also critical of it, it is however as I stated, 'the most complete listing of UK crags available' which was in the context of my introduction which states the need for books similar to Boulder Britain to cover, trad, sport and winter climbing in the UK.
I thought this guide would be trying to do to much and end up being a white elephant, that is untill i had a good look at the copy my mate won at the nibl comp.
Its a fantastic encyclopedia of uk climbing, sure if you are gonna spend a lot of time at a local crag its not the right guide, but as an overview of what britain has to offer its really really useful.
I think the Mr Grimes has done a splendid job and i will be parting with some coin!!
> £25?! Who has that money to spare.
Many people; how much money do people spend on stuff that is unnecessary - loads. I'm not saying the guide is necessary but in terms of how much you will use the guide, where it will take you, how it might inspire you, it's worth / value for money is far higher than a lot pointless **** that people spend money on.
Right, so when you do paid work, you obviously refuse to accept any form of payment given your principles? The money-grabbers comment is just ridiculous, have you any idea how much time and work can go into guidebook production, do you have any idea of the actual cost of production, do you have any idea of the distribution cost? No? Thought not.
A well researched and put together guide.
Great effort Niall.
What's your normal delivery time on the book Niall?
Just ordered it and would be good to have it this weekend for a trip to Dartmoor!
Books in the post Onion, will be there in a day or two,
That was a cracking Hoxton Bonnet you were sporting yesterday !
Totally agree with this and your other comments. Grimer toils for seven years in the wilderness (so to speak) and then gets bollox like this.
Looked up Paulos' profile (as you do) and found currently banned. Quel surprise!
Thankfully most folk are immeasurably more appreciative.
My copy arrived yesterday as was well thumbed last night. For someone who doesn't get a lot of time to boulder and travels around a fair bit this is a brilliant book. The areas I know well are covered well with the pick of the problems or areas, giving me confidence in visiting other areas. Niall has the knack of capturing the feel of an area well (I love Rubicon but 'minging' is indeed the right word for having to lay out four plastic bags and two mats just to done one traverse) thus I hope when I have the chance to nip out for a few hours on holiday I can choose somewhere suitable. If you find Niall funny, you'll find the book funny. Otherwise it is still well and succinctly written. The pictures really are superb (apart from the one of those testicles...). The overview pictures showing access and crag layout are a brilliant idea, again essential for the one-off visitor.
Gripes? Scotland is shamefully short-changed and the book is rather let down as a result (as much through my disappointment). As the author admits it was more of an afterthought but I guess Boulder England and Wales wouldn't have been alliterative.
In summary this is a 'Rough Guide' to England and Wales bouldering and is an essential addition to your library. I look forward to the coffee table version 'Classic UK Bouldering' in which the photos will be double-paged (with mainly female ascentionists).
> Totally agree with this and your other comments. Grimer toils for seven years in the wilderness (so to speak) and then gets bollox like this.
Doesn't matter Mick. In the UK making money by providing services and products for climbers is not allowed!
I tried to keep any humour corralled in the intro paragraphs. With a book like this, you're essentially trying to make the book you'd like to read yourself so in some way one puts in the humour as an indulgence. However i'm also aware that humour, in general, can become annoying pretty soon, so I think all the sections on conditions, approach etc are all totally straight. I think.
Also, the Scotland thing. Well, as it says in the book, I couldn't have done it otherwise and there was a point where Boulder England and Wales was a tempting option. However in some ways i now find it the most inspiring chapter - mainly down to Richie Betts' pictures and how they capture the sandstone and landscape.
Anyway, sorry to focus on what seem like the minus points in your generous review, and thanks again,
Throughout the late 90s and early years of the 2000s Bridestones was a very popular destination with boulderers. However the rock there is much softer than other gritstone hereabouts and the result of this popularity was that some problems were very heavily eroded and practically destroyed. So much so that the latest Total Climbing guides took the decision to leave the venue out of their books altogether.
I wasn't sure whether to put it in BB for the same reason. If I did and gave a selection of problems then I feared the result would be to focus attention on those problems and further exacerbate the problem of erosion on a select number of problems. I didn't want that.
I was in contact with some of the locals and they thought that this solution was a good one. ie, just tell people where it is and what it's like and let them make their own way around it. It's the same as has been done for Bowden Doors and Doveholes in Northumberland, both great venues with delicate rock.
I hope you understand this reasoning. However i can also guarantee that you don't need a detailed guide to have a great time at the Bridestones.
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