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Tips for Malta Rock Climbing

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 Chad123 15 Mar 2012
Anyone been climbing there and want to recommend where to stay, which crags are best and anything else fun to do? We are heading there in early April and hoping to explore the place - what's the sport climbing like or is it mostly good for trad and DWS? Pregnant wife might not like the DWS stuff though! Might stay on Gozo for part of the 10 day trip, or is it easier to just stay on Malta and visit Gozo from there? Looks tiny all in all, so easy to get about.....all advice appreciated!
 OllieR 15 Mar 2012
I was there in December and had a great trip. The sport climbing is OK but the trad is really good, especially on the sea cliffs with a really adventurous feel.

The trad is like bits of Gogarth, bits of Pembroke and some of the Devon coast rolled in to one. Was great to climb above the sea in winter in t-shirts and I imagine by April it will be very warm.

For sport climbing I would recommend Mgarr Ix-Xini (Champagne Wall and Dream Walls) on Gozo and Ghar Lapsi (Twin caves, Learning to Fly Cave and Terry's Cave) on Malta.

For Trad you should visit Wied Babu (Blue Wall and Red Wall), Hamrija Tower Slabs, Ix-Xaqqa (Gully Steps) on Malta and Ta'Cenc and Wied Il-Mielah on Gozo.

We rented an apartment on Malta but spent a night in a hotel on Gozo so we could get 2 full days climbing done there.

Didn't do any DWS or sea level traverses as the sea was too cold but I imagine in April it should start to warm up a bit.

We hired a car and finding your way round is a bit of a nightmare (roads and sign posting is terrible). A sat nav would have helped.

The coast line is beautiful and the main towns have a lot of historical interest. The rest of the island is pretty flat with not much going on.

During the week we bumped into less than 10 other climbers so much quieter than other holiday destinations.

Would defiantly recommend it for the trad but for pure sport climbing there are lots of better places. The guidebook is excellent and can be found here:

http://www.malta-rockclimbing.com/maltaclimbingguide.htm

Some pictures can be seen here:

http://www.facebook.com/Climbapedia

Feel free to get back to me with any specific questions.
OP Chad123 15 Mar 2012
In reply to Chad123:
Thanks for all the excellent advice - just what I was looking for!
 chris m fisher 16 Mar 2012
In reply to Chad123:

As has been mentioned Ghar Lapsi has some nice sport pitches, there's a fun little DWS wall down on the headland too if you find yourself there. Its worth watching out for rats hiding in the limestone pockets, i got the shock of my life when one jumped out on me mid-route and speaking to locals i dont think this is uncommon.

If you get a hire car take care, road rules and common sense dont always apply. Oh and you must try the pastizzi's, there gorgeous!
 Ramblin dave 16 Mar 2012
In reply to Chad123:
The beach shack near the climbing at Mgarr ix Xini does amazing fresh fish at lunchtimes, although it can seriously cripple your afternoon climbing if you eat to much.

The sea level traversing is all good fun, too.
 Ramblin dave 16 Mar 2012
In reply to Ramblin dave:
Oh, and take secateurs.
 blurty 16 Mar 2012
In reply to chris m fisher:
> (In reply to Chad123)
>
> As has been mentioned Ghar Lapsi has some nice sport pitches, there's a fun little DWS wall down on the headland too if you find yourself there. Its worth watching out for rats hiding in the limestone pockets, i got the shock of my life when one jumped out on me mid-route and speaking to locals i dont think this is uncommon.
>
> If you get a hire car take care, road rules and common sense dont always apply. Oh and you must try the pastizzi's, there gorgeous!

The maltese don't drive on the left or the right, they drive in the shade

Pastizzi are the work of the devil, they lead to my down-fall

cap'nChino 17 Mar 2012
In reply to Chad123: BUy the guide book. Its about £25 but well worth it. Really good good guide. Its in full colour and shows you what is in the sun/shade when. However don't trust the grades too much, its not deliberate sandbagging just difference of opinion and lack of knowledge, the climbs arent moderated much and book is about 5 years old now.

Weid babu near the blue grotto is a great sports venue. Loads of bolted climbs.

I found the best protection was threading slings but I didnt do any coastal cliff climbs so can speak for them.

Great place. and dont listen to the above poster on Pazzists (or however they are spelt) they are immense!!! get the goat cheese ones.

Drink driving is common out there so stay safe at night on the roads.

any where in malta can be reached from anywhere in 30mins.

Wish I were going now
 dalai 21 Mar 2012
In reply to Chad123: Best bet is to also get in touch with both Malta Climbing clubs plus the Gozo Climbing association via Facebook for climbing partners and local knowledge as to which areas are in condition.

Also ask for directions to the new sport cave north of Mellieha not in the guide.
 Trangia 21 Mar 2012
In reply to Chad123:

I visited Malta and Gozo for the first time last November, not to climb but to do self guided walks, mainly coastal. The walking is very good, and we walked most of Gozo's coast with some circular inland routes. The trad sea trad cliff climbing looks amazing.

As has been said driving about is a navigational nightmare and sign posting appalling. Also at that time of year we had the morning sun straight into our face driving east from Gozo to catch the plane home at Malta's airport. This made it impossible to read what signs there were, and in spite of having set out with lots of time to spare, we got lost over and over nearly missing the plane.

Road surfaces are appalling and do check your car when you hire it or you will get stung for pre-existing damage (which they all have) when you return it. We refused to take the one we were first offered because it was not only very scratched and dented but filthy inside. Trying to get it changed for a better one was a hassel.

There is an excellent bus network, and we tended to use buses more than the car to get around. The buses are modern and air conditioned. Don't bother arriving at a bus terminal in good time to get a place. The moment the bus arrives, any semblance of a queue disintergrates into a rugby scrum. The drivers don't seem at all worried about overloading them and just keep piling people in. It's all very friendly once you are on and the Maltese are lovely people. When standing in the corridor I was offered a seat by younger Maltese (both of whom had fought to get on!) on two separate occasions.

Both islands are heavily built up, particularly Malta, which is a massive urban connurbation. In the country the fields are tiny and surrounded by stone walls with a big variety of crops interspersed by tracks and paths, but you are never really out of sight of the towns and villages which sprall into each other.

English is widely spoken and understood, and most villages have well stocked supermarkets tucked away, usually in an old stone building. There are British red telephone boxes and blue lamps outside of the police stations.

One pass time which seems unpleasant to our British eyes is the widespread shooting and trapping of birds. Shooting is a major sport and there are hides everywhere. They shoot everything from sparrows to hawks. The only place that it's banned is on the mainly uninhabited island of Comino - well worth a visit (regular ferries) with good snorkelling, I'm not certain about the climbing here but there are limestone cliffs and dramatic sea caves.

 Simon Alden 21 Mar 2012
In reply to Chad123: Hi - glad to hear you are giving Malta a try - I'm sure you won't be disappointed. Feel free to contact me when you are in Malta. www.maltaclimbingclub.com
 dalai 21 Mar 2012
In reply to Chad123: Another guide to consider is that published by Gozo Adventures. It is a selected guide that complements the Malta Climbing guide; listing more DWSing (including Lantern Point on Comino - closest point on Comino the main ferry service between Malta and Gozo passes). Although you need to get a tourist ferry to Comino, you don't need a boat for the actual DWSing there...

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