/ Grivel Pan Pipes Vs Petzl Iceflute
What have people foudn worked - or have you made your own that is so much better than what you can buy?
Petzl caritool, a plastic version of the thing toby showed. Good for clipping heads of axes to when they aren't being used too.
I would go for Ice Flutes virtually every time; I wear mine on a bandolier. Don't like the Grivels, they don't seem to hold any but the longest screws as well and are a bugger to get attached to your harness or bandolier (threading the neoprene strap through the simple buckle requires the strength of popeye and the patience of a saint). I do have one Grivel which is better than a flute for a 22cm screw.
It is, of course, a matter of personal preference, I suggest you see if you have a mate who can loan you one of each to try out at home (or even on Stanage to confuse people!). If you can't get on with either or both of them in ideal conditions then you have no chance when trussed up in winter gear and miles above your last dodgy screw.
Been using the pan pipes for a few years. THey are ok, but can get a bit fiddly and catch the rope. They also move about a bit but once the side belt is sorted they are reasonably stable.
I use a twin inverted crab system. It is basically two snapgates linked together by a metal rod. They are inverted and clipped arond the harness waistbelt. All in the wrist action as they say, but I can rack 3 screws on each. I also have a set on my right hand side(left handed) in case I need to swap hands - just makes life easier.
This is a single version
I got mine in the late 90's from a shop in Banff. Not seen any since though.
sort of like Toby's doohickey, but not quite so much of "made of brass and engineering from the days of the Empire
Little metal rods always seem to break
keylocks are best, the hanger of the screw can't catch then.
I've had one of the diy things for years, except mine's drilled and held together/apart with coat hanger wire and araldite. Works really well - gate opening at the top seems to be the most successful - suing old straight D krabs. In a moment of weakness I bought one of the Simond thingies this year though and it works really well too. I think the single plastic BD/Petzl versions are a waste of time.
I also have five Petzl flutes which also work well, and tend to be used for the 'grab in a hurry' screws. They are just clipped onto gear loops.
Yep - that's the one.
Bought mine in Canada in about 98 and it has seen plenty of service and abused by an ice climber of no particular finesse. Best racking system I have used TBH, though pan pipes are handy for transporting screws around in my bag
Elsewhere on the site
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
The British climbing scene is very exciting at the moment. It is quite clear that as a sport it is developing at a rapid rate and... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more
As a long-standing name in the UK rockshoe market, Scarpa have a loyal following and many much-loved models. As a fan... Read more
Nick Livesey discovered the mountains of Snowdonia over a decade ago and finally moved there a year and a half ago, quitting a... Read more