/ UKC Conditions Report Ben Nevis 29 March 12
Smith's Route was climbed on Tuesday, Upper Tower Cascade Left Hand, Gardyloo Gully and Number Two Gully plus the grade I gullies all saw ascents.
Today though with higher humidity and a breeze the snow was mushy and the ice running with water. I went up Tower Gully with an open mind but was happy not to climb anything steep.
So, at last, it's just about all gone. Gardyloo Gully, Number Two Gully and the Grade I gullies are all that's left really. The great ridges are just about free of snow but it would be sensible to carry an ice axe anyway. We are forecast colder temperatures in the coming week so don't get caught out - it is only March still, despite appearances!
UKC Ben Nevis Correspondent
We had a crackingly good ascent of number 4 gully last Saturday which was particularly good higher up. Using axe as 'walking stick' lower down the snow pack was a bit soft but good footholds with the G12's. Last 100 metres after turning the corner it firmed up nicely with some first ever front pointing to get up the last bit. Only worry was the slumped cornice which being no expert looked likely to collapse within the next few days. Going to put some pics on my profile.
A party of three at the top were going to descend but were put off by the look of it. Can the more knowledgeable people than me tell me how likely that would be to happen?
We had two ice falls which put the be-jeesus up me as it was chunks the size of dinner plates that had all the plasticity of concrete whistling over our heads. Our first grade 1 route so all part of the learning experience.......
Winter going up, swelteringly summer conditions back down pony track for well earned Guinness in the Ben Nevis Inn. Beer in the sun with no midges, what's that all about?!
The cornices are now all very stable. Nearly all the overhanging bits have fallen off already. The cracks you see now are called sag (or slump or creep) lines where the snowpack in the gully has creeped downhill a bit opening up the gap at the top. These do not normally indicate the whole lot is going to fall off. The snow will just melt back slowly.
The ice is falling off the crags though and that is quite a hazard as you noticed!
Is there much 'white material' left on Good Friday climb or Comb gully? Just trying to work out what the chances of anything coming back in to condition given the forecast for next week...
(Perhaps meriting optimist of the year award?)
And I thought I was optimistic!
Thanks Mike. It's what happens when you live South of the border and adapt to getting the best out of a Lakeland winter, which has been poor compared to the last few!
Elsewhere on the site
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
Aiming at designing and producing the best belay glasses to protect climbers’ necks, Y&Y focuses on every detail to... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more