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Topic - Anchor Building

AdamGP86 - on 01 Apr 2012

I've recently started learning some trad skills and spent some time learning gear placement & rigging an anchor for a belaying up a 2nd. I'm happy with setting up an equalised anchor from my harness at the top using 3 pieces of protection & 3 clove hitches to screw gates attached to my rope loop and adjusting them to equalise everything.

I've just been experimenting with how I would adjust this technique to rig an anchor for a top/bottom rope and would like peoples opinions as to how safe the below is and if there are any ways it could be improved.

In the dummy set up below I have 3 anchors labelled 1, 2 & 3. At anchor 1 I have a fig8 not with a stopper (same I would tie to my harness). The rope then threads through anchors 2 & 3.

I then took the rope between 1&2 and attached to the screw gate labelled "4" with a clove hitch, and repeated with he length between 2 & 3.

I then took a bite of the remaining rope and tied a fig8 and clipped this to the screwgate leaving a very long tail.

Finally I tweaked the 2 clove hitches until each anchor was sharing the load evenly.

My intention then would be to extend from the screwgate with a sling and attach this to a top rope belayer or attach another screwgate and use it as a bottom rope anchor.



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