UKC

NEWS: Dan Varian Adds Northumberland's Hardest

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 UKC News 05 Apr 2012
Dan Varian working his new route Empty the Bones of You, before his successful ascent., 4 kbWith his solo / highball ascent of Empty the Bones of You, Dan Varian has climbed one of the hardest routes of its style in the UK.

"I ate a lot of gummi bears on the day..." he commented.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67022

 UKB Shark 05 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Dynamite
dyfed 05 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News:

It's 12m high. 12m! I feel funny just thinking about it.

 Russell Lovett 05 Apr 2012
In reply to dyfed: Need a special head set to call this a boulder problem, gave me the creeps just looking at it.
 Peter Walker 05 Apr 2012
In reply to Russell Lovett: Too bloody right.

One of the things I drew from watching 'Life on Hold' was a better understanding of how James Pearson might have thought The Promise to be E10: those moves up there with no matting, a terrible landing and gear you're pretty sure will rip...
 jh_oneill 10 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Normally one "rolls ones sleeves up" to get the job done but in the photos from this news story you can see that when he latched the higher holds his sleeves were in fact down.

 Brendan 11 Apr 2012
In reply to dyfed:
Yeah, my local climbing wall is 12 or 13 metres high and there are six bolts to get to the top!
 The Pylon King 11 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News:

so if the line is between an E9 and an E6, what grade is it?
 Fraser 11 Apr 2012
In reply to Formerly Known as Pylon King:

Probably E7.5 ?
In reply to Formerly Known as Pylon King: Font 8a+
 The Pylon King 12 Apr 2012
In reply to NJBrown:
> (In reply to Formerly Known as Pylon King) Font 8a+

yeah but its a trad route
 JDal 12 Apr 2012
In reply to Formerly Known as Pylon King:
Actually the FA's of the early routes on that wall were soloed WITHOUT mats. So maybe a trad grade isn't appropriate?? Mind you hitting mats fron 12 metres isn't an appealing prospect, so maybe it is.
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