/ Re-threading a hex - knot inside hex..?

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David Barratt - on 06 Apr 2012
I'm re-threading a couple hexes and thought it might be a good idea to stick the double fisherman's inside the hex rather than outside... is there any reason not to?
Mark Stevenson - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt: Not that I'm aware of.

It was standard practice for size 10 and 11 hexes when I started climbing in the early 1990s.
David Barratt - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to Mark Stevenson: Well that's good enough for me, thanks.
In reply to David Barratt:

It looks good but it is tricky to keep an eye on the knot!


Chris
Ann S on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt:

Keep the knot outside. When you drop your belay plate you can always use a hex as a makeshift plate.
David Barratt - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to Ann S: Hadn't thought of that before. think I'd probably just use an italian / munter hitch. But I suppose you never know.
pebbles - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt: yup, a mate of mine did this last year to ab off a route. works suprisingly well!
Paul Hy - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt: as long as your using cord and not dyneema as the replacement. see thread regarding dymeema knots bieng very unsafe!!!!
Ron Walker - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt:

I do it!
Paul Hy - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt: here the link about not using dyneema:
http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2012/03/knotting-dyneema%C2%AE-vid/
Ron Walker - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Shame as it would save a fortune by just making our own slings and gear as was done until fairly recently!
Paul Hy - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt: Yeah, life is more than a few pounds.
mhawk - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt: What sort of diameter cord would you use for that?
Paul Hy - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt: 8mm is the recommended thickness and using double fishermans with minimum 5 cm tails.
Flashy - on 06 Apr 2012
In reply to Ann S: Presumably if you can get the knot in you can get it out again to use the hex as a belay plate?
David Barratt - on 07 Apr 2012
In reply to rampantchopper: I've actually only put 7mm cord on...I'll be careful!!
David Barratt - on 07 Apr 2012
In reply to Flashy: Good point
David Barratt - on 07 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Thanks, saw that video the other day actually, really interesting/scary.
LastBoyScout on 08 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt:

I re-threaded my large Hexs with 20mm tubular tape and tied a tape knot inside the Hex - left decent tails and stitched them, before working the knot inside.

It's a much smaller knot than a double Fishereman's in 8mm or 9mm rope.
LastBoyScout on 08 Apr 2012
In reply to Flashy:
> (In reply to Ann S) Presumably if you can get the knot in you can get it out again to use the hex as a belay plate?

If you're desperate, you could cut it off with your knife.
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Ann S on 08 Apr 2012
In reply to LastBoyScout:

Out of interest I have now tied the knot on 7mm or 8mm cord inside a medium sized hex. Total pain to stuff the knot inside, then tuck the tails in and still a pain to fiddle the whole thing out again if needed. I'll leave my knots outside.
David Barratt - on 08 Apr 2012
In reply to Ann S: Having tried it I went for the knot out side in the end. Although I think I'll do it for bigger Hexes.
Ann S on 08 Apr 2012
In reply to David Barratt:

Good idea. And I recommend attaching your belay plate to a small length of thin cord which can be clipped back to your harness so you never drop your plate. I've seen at least 4 instances of dropped belay plates so it is well worth doing. Happy climbing.

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