In reply to jon:
> I think the Schreckhorn was probably the harder of the two before the installation of the bolt belays every 25m on the upper arête.
Reminiscent of the staple belays on the top of the Dent d'Herrens, or the via Ferrata to get past the receeded glacier on the Biancongrat on the Piz Bernina. Swiss guides do love murdering the impossible, or rather murdering the merely tricky or somewhat dangerous, to reduce a classic route or peak to a commodity.
Very hard to stop them doing this I suppose, though I think they failed with the Zmuttgrat on the Matterhorn some years ago. Mea culpa, I have to confess to using both the aids on the Piz Bernina and the Dent d'Herrens.