/ What was your first HVS?

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Paul Hy - on 19 Apr 2012
my aim this year is to consolidate VS leading and possibly lead a HVS. my main experienced is on grit so what was your first grit HVS and/or any recommendations?
victim of mathematics - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Kneewrecker Chimney at Belmont Hall in the Churnet.

If you like chimneys it's not too bad.

I generally find HVS on grit to be several orders of magnitude harder than HVS on other rock types, so don't worry if they all feel desperate!

If you're after recommendations then Goliath's Groove is soft as long as you aren't some kind of crackophobic ponce, Leaning Buttress Indirect isn't too bad and Queersville often comes up in these discussions (but don't fall off the end of the traverse). There's a million great HVSs at Millstone. Bond Street is soft if you can jam. Lyon's Corner House is ok as long as you are alright with rope management.
jkarran - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Sunset Slab I think. Imaginative eh! Not the best choice, doing it again I'd do a real one with some gear and moves.

jk
Chris the Tall - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
Meringue at lawrencefield, pretty borderline, but followed closely by Ratline at Birchens and Three Pebble Slab, which were a bit harder
Chris the Tall - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> If you're after recommendations then Goliath's Groove is soft as long as you aren't some kind of crackophobic ponce, Leaning Buttress Indirect isn't too bad and Queersville often comes up in these discussions (but don't fall off the end of the traverse). There's a million great HVSs at Millstone. Bond Street is soft if you can jam. Lyon's Corner House is ok as long as you are alright with rope management.

Despite having led about a dozen grit E2s, I've failed on 60% of your easy HVSs

But then I am a crackophobic ponce.....
Fredt on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Three Pebble Slab, but wouldn't recommend it.

I found Queersville very easy, probably because I am tall.
Ross.Cooper - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: I did Libra (HVS 4c) at Roaches Upper Tier first after a day of doing my first VS :) was a tad bold :)
In reply to Paul Hy: Good question - really racking my brains now. Fell off Great Western when I lived in Leeds - don't think I tried any other Grit HVS's that year... then I moved to Manchester... so I reckon either Toady's Wall or Parker's Eliminate at Hobson Moor. Having said that my first HVS anywhere was Prom Direct at Auchenstarry years before that and I had climbed HVS on a number of different Scottish rock types.
Wiley Coyote - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Bond St at Millstone. It was a fight but it ate hexes (no cams in the dim and distant) so I never thought I was going to die. In fact I may never have got above my gear so maybe it was not a lead at all.


Skyfall - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Can't recall which was my 1st on grit but probably something like CMC slab at Froggatt. Escapable, fairly straightfoward 5a slab moves, and you can choose how regularly (or not) you place eside runners. I think it's actually pretty obvious where you do have to fully commit to the slab and the crack is no longer within arms reach. Lovely route too.

I think my 1st was in fact Troutdale Pin Superdirect in the Lakes.
valentinesbabe - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: If we're talking first lead HVS, mine was Croton Oil at Rivelin. Perhaps not the easiest to start on but awesome topout with it being a pinnacle...I was just having a good day having only really led HS before :-) Definitely a great buzz. Whatever you do as your first I'm sure you'll remember it.
Dom Whillans on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
my first proper, onsight-type HVS was Pebble Dash at The Roaches; a lovely introduction into climbing on less rock than before - take what you're given, work your way across and up, and then look back and go "ok, that wan't so bad, what's next?" a wonderful feeling, enjoy moving through the grades (i'm still kind of stuck between HVS and E2!)
hellboundblr - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
My first HVS was Bamford Rib. Cant really remember it, except there is a holly growing part way up. I didnt know how the trad grading worked at the time, so the grade did not hold much meaning.
James Jackson on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Chequers Buttress. Lovely route.
Doug on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to James Jackson: either Sauls crack or Sunset Slab, except both were considered VS at the time. For a route that was HVS in the guidebook of the time, probably Bond St
In reply to Paul Hy: Knight's Move at Burbage N. Proper soft touch. Leaning Buttress Direct at Stanage is good. There are a couple of hard moves - the start is quite bouldery and the move off the ledge isn't easy but the gear is there. The top is run-out but easy.
John_Hat - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Senility at Heptonstall. I was recommended it as a "good first lead" by my (much older and more experienced) climbing partner at the time...

So yes, my first ever lead, and my third outside route ever, was HVS.

I fell off. Got up it eventually though.

First clean HVS lead several four months later was Peg Crack at Ilkely.
Trangia - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Don't climb much on grit, but I remember doing something caled Peapod which was a lot harder than it looked! My first HVS ever was Meshach at Tremadog, and I have to admit that I did use the peg!
David Kay - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Probably portfolio at Windgather, which isn't too hard.

Also try Lancashire Wall at Stanage which is a bit soft for HVS too.
Jon Stewart - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Unimaginatively, mine was Knight's Move, which should be VS anyway.

I think Croton Oil and Chequers buttress would both make great first HVSs: low in the grade but not actually VS (like Lancashire Wall), great routes with good holds and gear, cool moves and great exposure. Both a real buzz to break into the grade on.

Stuff like Bond Street is OK if you learnt to climb on cracks (not many people do), but for most people those routes feel desperate compared to stuff with holds. My experience is that after a few years they start to feel technically easy but still strenuous - compared to routes like Chequers Buttress that feel really fun. And as for Goliath's Groove, it's probably the worst route on grit I've done. Exhausting, uncomfortale graunching up a hideously polished offwidth with really awkward to place gear, followed by a big ledge and a boring corner. Not my idea of fun, but some people love that kind of thing.
mcdougal - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to David Kirsfelds:
> (In reply to Paul Hy) Probably portfolio at Windgather, which isn't too hard.
>
> Also try Lancashire Wall at Stanage which is a bit soft for HVS too.

Oh no! I fell off Portfolio (in good company, I hear!) twice before I did it and backed off Lancashire wall.
Mine was Greg's Retreat at Stanage which is steady at 5a but a bit bold at the top.
Goucho on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: I think mine was either Helsinki Wall at Tremadog, or Brant Direct - I know I chose well protected, and I know it wasn't on Grit!
victim of mathematics - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to Paul Hy)
>
> Unimaginatively, mine was Knight's Move, which should be VS anyway.
>
> I think Croton Oil and Chequers buttress would both make great first HVSs: low in the grade but not actually VS (like Lancashire Wall), great routes with good holds and gear, cool moves and great exposure. Both a real buzz to break into the grade on.

This is all dangerously sensible advice.

> Stuff like Bond Street is OK if you learnt to climb on cracks (not many people do), but for most people those routes feel desperate compared to stuff with holds. My experience is that after a few years they start to feel technically easy but still strenuous - compared to routes like Chequers Buttress that feel really fun. And as for Goliath's Groove, it's probably the worst route on grit I've done. Exhausting, uncomfortale graunching up a hideously polished offwidth with really awkward to place gear, followed by a big ledge and a boring corner. Not my idea of fun, but some people love that kind of thing.

This, however, is cobblers. Bond Street always gets mentioned as a soft HVS when this sort of topic comes up, which would suggest that either more people understand how to climb cracks, or, that you can't. As evidenced by your ongoing insistence that Goliath's Groove is a) rubbish b) polished or c) hard.

I put it to you that you too are a crackophobic ponce :p
victim of mathematics - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Goucho:

Isn't Helsinki Wall E1 these days?
charley - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Think mine was Tody's Wall. As mentioned Croton Oil is a great climb.

I'm relatively new to HVS and so far have found there are a few real nice ones at Stanage, all next to each other. Some of the well protected ones that I've done recently are;

Paucity
Robin Hood Cave Innominate/Harding's Finish
Cave Arete
Mississippi Variant

All of them have good gear...
sjminfife - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Avalanche Wall at Curbar.I remember it being well protected and steady. sjm
wilkie14c - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
Some of the routes at the HVS dream crag of Millstone may suit, longer than normal but if chosen right there are a few with good rests and great gear, Great North Road or Lyons Corner House Direct spring to mind. I guess you need to decide what your strengths are, bold and run out but not too hard or powerful but well protected? The stuff in the middle sould help you decide! The two I mentioned would come in the middle whereas Bond Street would be powerful and well protected and something like Queersville on the bold side. As ever though, thats just one blokes opinion!
My first? Can't even remember
wilkie14c - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to sjminfife:
+1
Good choice
Double Knee Bar - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Ross.Cooper:
> (In reply to Paul Hy) I did Libra (HVS 4c) at Roaches Upper Tier

Same here.
Goucho on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics: I don't know, but I think I chose it because it was considered to be quite a soft touch for HVS!
pebblespanker - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Mort Wall at Chatsworth I think (dim distant and hazy very early 80's) and around the same time Knights Move, Sunset Slab, Three Pebble Slab in the Peak and Erasor Slab at Earl
pebblespanker - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to pebblespanker:

I am also aware the last two now get E1 :)
RockSteady on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

I've led about 5 trad climbs - I led Rugosity Crack at Stanage. I thought it was a good climb and well protected.
pebblespanker - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to pebblespanker:

Just had a moment of clarity in the usual fog of old age - pretty sure it was Jimmies Crack at Cratcliffe as I did that before going to Uni in 82 and as I am short (ish) it was worth the HVS rating :)
Dave Garnett - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to Paul Hy)
>
> Kneewrecker Chimney at Belmont Hall in the Churnet.
>
> If you like chimneys it's not too bad.
>

Apart from reaching the chimney. And getting out of it at the top. I can think of easier ones.

I'm with you on Goliath's Groove though, stiff VS 4c.

My first HVS lead was Original Route at High Tor, I think.
Bulls Crack - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Tody's Wall I hink was an earlt HVS and my first on grit but since I didn't tend to climb on it I was more focussed on other HVS's!
robal - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:

>
> I think Croton Oil and Chequers buttress would both make great first HVSs: low in the grade but not actually VS (like Lancashire Wall), great routes with good holds and gear, cool moves and great exposure. Both a real buzz to break into the grade on.


I agree, croton oil was my first HVS and it is an absolute blast and an amazing route to break into the grade!
nniff - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
The Fang, with a woefully inadequate rack. The top pitch was insanely run out as a result.
David Rose - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: I would recommend Great North Road. Not because it is easy (I would say it is about the middle of the grade) but because the protection is good, the rests are excellent, and the climbing is always magnificent. If you get up it, you really have led HVS, and the buzz will be immense, and if you don't, you won't get hurt.

Goliath's Groove is rubbish.
In reply to Bulls Crack: I have a feeling mine was Bulls Crack
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GrahamD - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Mine was April Arete, but I wouldn't reccomend it. Its either a solo if you are entirely blinkered or more akin to VS if you reach across to place some gear.

On grit, Avalanche wall and bond st are both good calls as the gear is good and they are not reach dependant. Limestone is also worth considering at the grade. Willersley and Wild Cat have some great butch but well protected corners which are fair for the grade.
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack) I have a feeling mine was Bulls Crack

I had forgotten about that one, it's a cracker as I remember. Is Heptonstall grit though? I remember it looking more like what I call sandstone - although I s'pose gritstone is a type of sandstone...

In reply to TobyA: Don't ask me Toby. Far as I'm concerned it's in Yorkshire and it's not limestone, ergo grit, innit. Brilliant wee route, whatever it's made of.
antdav - on 20 Apr 2012
Diamond Wednesday. My notes say i didnt find it too tough and if i remember it correctly it had decent gear and had slabby parts for rests.
Bulls Crack - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack) I have a feeling mine was Bulls Crack

Fine choice!


Bulls Crack - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com:


And the sun is shinig on it - almost -as we speak
999thAndy on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:

The earliest HVS I remember doing was right next door to you - Senility. I say 'doing' rather than 'leading' because I spent more time than enough 'testing' the runners.
Enty - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Wiley Coyote:
> (In reply to Paul Hy)
>
> Bond St at Millstone.

Mine too.

E

Bulls Crack - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to 999thAndy:

Senility - hard work at HVS!

Bob Hassall - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Enty: Ozymandias at Stanage, a route from the Gary Gibson pamphlet of the time (82ish), Gibson claimed it, and I recall someone having a prior claim.........and seems to have disappeared.... but now there are two Scoops on Martello Buttress, weird!
Exile - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Mine was Red Rose Speedway at Symonds Yat, (i know it's not grit, but it's a great route.)
Bob Hassall - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Exile: Red Rose Speedway, good route!
Goucho on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Miss read your post, and the 'grit' ref.

Therefore my first 'grit' HVS was Black Hawk Bastion, followed by Paucity, followed by Congo Corner, followed by Kelly's Overhang - all at Stanage, and all on the same glorious sunny day :-)
999thAndy on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to 999thAndy)
>
> Senility - hard work at HVS!

Yes, hence the extensive runner "testing"

<coughs>
gazfellows on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Right unconc Stanage, top hvs and bomber gear all the way ... :)
Hat Dude on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Scratch Arete
Jon Stewart - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
>
> Bond Street always gets mentioned as a soft HVS when this sort of topic comes up, which would suggest that either more people understand how to climb cracks, or, that you can't.

I think it suggests that people remember stuff as "easy" when they got to the top and didn't have to move more than 10cm before placing more gear.

As for whether or not I can climb cracks, well no not very well (but I have onsighted loads up to E2, and even enjoyed some), but the point is that it's normal for people who aren't very experienced to find pulling on holds much easier than jamming cracks. My experience is that when I was climbing VS, the ones with holds were piss and stuff like The File, Hawk's Nest Crack etc were nails. Now they all feel like VS, but that's after a few years of climbing cracks.

Many moons ago, before indoor climbing and the expansion of bouldering, Bond Street would have felt easy for people breaking into the HVS as they'd have done loads of well protected VS, and not much on small holds or overhangs (which people now do loads of before they've done their first lead). But now, it's more likely to feel quite a struggle.

> As evidenced by your ongoing insistence that Goliath's Groove is a) rubbish

It is, but that's subjective.

b) polished

It is and that's objective.

c) hard.

It's a graunchy HVS, probably harder than Kremlin Krack, but easier than Hen Cloud Eliminate - so just a hassle to climb.

> I put it to you that you too are a crackophobic ponce :p

Offwidths: guilty as charged, they're revolting.
Hand cracks: Love'em, so long as they're not too hard, thanks.
Finger cracks: Lots of the routes I've done at the top of my grade.

But give me cool moves above a run-out any day - a buzz rather than a hassle!
Jon Stewart - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Goucho:
> (In reply to Paul Hy) Miss read your post, and the 'grit' ref.
>
> Therefore my first 'grit' HVS was Black Hawk Bastion

Classic!
Darron - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
Mine was maupassant on Curber.
Of the above I reckon Parkers Eliminate at Hobby is the best suggestion for a first.
Goucho on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: I've just noticed it's now given E2 5c - well it was HVS in the guidebook when I did it (I think Nunn still gave it HVS 5b in his later guide) :-)
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Jon Stewart - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Goucho: Or even E3.
Goucho on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: That's just silly!
Simon Caldwell - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
Mine was Zapple Left Hand at Yarncliffe. Still not convinced it isn't VS 4c really, but I seem to be in a minority so happy to take the tick.

Haven't done that many others. Goliath's Groove is soft for the grade if you can thrutch. Laughing Gas at Rylstone is mildly terrifying but not too hard (I thought Whaup Edge at Eastby was both harder and bolder and that gets VS 4b).
In reply to Toreador:

> Mine was Zapple Left Hand at Yarncliffe. Still not convinced it isn't VS 4c really, but I seem to be in a minority so happy to take the tick.

I would be happy with having found it OK as I remember falling of the 'proper' start and then really having to battle up the route after using the slightly easier start. I remember things like Parker's Eliminate, Saul's Crack, Bulls Crack, Tody's, and Croton Oil that I all did that same year all feeling easier.

As to Bond Street and Jon's discussion - I thought it was a breeze which I rarely do at that grade. But I did that more recently and I have climbed loads more cracks in recent years living where I do. Did Crew Cut later that day, and had done the File in the morning and both of the those VSs made me work harder!
Blue Straggler - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Tinner at Bamford
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=9783

It is short yet manages to feel somewhat runout in the whole top half. To be honest I wanted to back off it but didn't trust my last gear placement to even hold me on gentle static loading, so I decided that my best bet was to run it out to the finish! It was fine, felt like a proper step-up from VS (unlike, say, Knight's Move might) and quite satisfying. I then did the very similar neighbouring route Right Hand Twin.

I deliberatly chose "non-classic" routes because I felt that if I tried to break into a harder grade on a classic I would be a) more disappointed to fail and/or b) more inclined to run it out into a dangerous position due to wanting to onsight the famous classic.

I think that's a sensible approach. Get some genuine mileage in whilst learning to get more solid at the grade, so you can later enjoy the real classics. Doesn't mean you won't end up dogging those too (see: Blue Straggler on Suicide Wall a few weeks ago :-) )

Good luck
Blue Straggler - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to TobyA:

EVERYONE I have spoke too says Crew Cut is solid HVS :-)
I get scared just looking at it. Wouldn't touch it!
djelkin1992 - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Sunset Slab at froggat. Amazing run out to the finish. well worth the journey
popebenedictus - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Saltheart Foamfollower at Birchen

Great name but not a great route. More of a boulder problem really
victim of mathematics - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Toreador:
> (In reply to Paul Hy)
> Mine was Zapple Left Hand at Yarncliffe. Still not convinced it isn't VS 4c really, but I seem to be in a minority so happy to take the tick.

I'm with you on that one. Seemed like a very responable proposition at VS, no idea what everybody else finds hard about it climbed that way. Great Crack is very similar, but harder and longer, and some argue that that should be VS if the start's dry.

(I thought Whaup Edge at Eastby was both harder and bolder and that gets VS 4b).

I thought Whaup Edge was obviously a massive sandbag even from the ground (so I let my partner gibber up it on lead, graciously). I was under the impression that nobody else agreed.
Dave Garnett - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:

Whaup Edge... I didn't find much difference in grade between that and the Padder. Proper Yorkshire VS!
CurlyStevo - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
suspense on avon gorge a great route.
n-stacey - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Peapod on Curbar.
In reply to n-stacey: Crikey, that's a bit hard for your first... or even your 100th at the grade
Alan100 - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

my first was Tower Face at stanage - great fun :) fairly soon after was Kinght's Move..

+1 for Great North Road and Chequers Buttress tho - both great value climbing with consistent gear. Tody's is a bit of an odd route but in a good way! it's also got overhead gear for the crux so feels nice and safe..

Monk - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

I'm not sure I can really remember my first HVS - it was probably one of the Dover's Wall routes at Stanage. It wasn't a particularly memorable leap for me as I climbed my first E1 (Strapiombante) a couple of weeks before I had climbed HVS. The Dover's wall routes are quite nice though. I remember that the HVS I did had a spicy top move.
Gordon Stainforth - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Erosion Groove on Carreg Wastad. Hard Very Exciting!
sims - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
Tower Face Stanage-good gear and didn't feel too hard at the time
Goucho on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth: Not to mention Hard Very Scrappy :-)
Somerset swede basher - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Thrug at the roaches, also my first leader fall I think!
Simon Caldwell - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> I thought Whaup Edge was obviously a massive sandbag even from the ground

I naively assumed there must be a hidden hold to get the grade :-)
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climbingpixie - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

My first was Meringue at Lawrencefield, followed by other similar soft touches like Tharf Cake and Knight's Move at Burbage North. I naively assumed I could climb HVS based on that and threw myself at Valkyrie Direct and The Mincer at The Roaches a couple of weeks later...

I reckon Chequer's Buttress (if you're not a shorty), Croton Oil, Tower Face, Lyon's Corner House Direct or Avalanche Wall are all good bets for a first HVS. They're all pretty safe, not too hard but shouldn't be downgraded.
Dino Dave - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Bull's Crack was my first 'proper' HVS that I can remember doing
Pagan - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to TobyA:

> Is Heptonstall grit though? I remember it looking more like what I call sandstone

You're not confusing it with Hetchell are you? That's quite sandstone-y. Heptonstall is more or less typical quarried grit.

To the rest of the thread: I've no idea what my first HVS on grit was but Bond Street is one of the easiest HVSs I've ever done (and I'm a crackophobic ponce).
Jamie B - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Another unimaginative ascent of Knight's Move at Burbage for me. I knew it was bottom of the grade, which is why I did it. I dont think it's VS though.
In reply to Pagan: No, I think I've been to Hetchell too... Perhaps it was just afternoon light but I just have this memory of Heptonstall being really reddish. But the mind plays tricks on you and its over a decade since I visited.
Madden - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: My first HVS was Main Wall Eliminate at Bowden Doors... It was my second lead. 5th trad climb over all. That said, I have bouldered for a while, so it was technically pretty easy. Just a case of putting gear in and not getting pumped.

I remember, I did have to stop at one point, as I couldn't feel my hands for cold. Got a good 1 hand rest that I could swap around on, and had to warm my hands in my armpits. Was fine after that.
wilkie14c - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to Paul Hy)
>
> Erosion Groove on Carreg Wastad. Hard Very Exciting!

If we are going on a road trip to Wales after the Peak then I'll thrown Sectre on the Grochan in the ring, a long route where you don't need the grunt of the grit HVS's, 4 lovely pitches with good belays and good gear.
Wilbur - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to nniff:
> (In reply to Paul Hy)
> The Fang, with a woefully inadequate rack. The top pitch was insanely run out as a result.

It's insanely run out even with modern gear. That was my lead and it started spitting half way up the second pitch and roughly 20 ft or so above the last runner. I literally panic padded to the top in about 10 seconds...!
Wilbur - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Oh, and my first HVS (which was on the grit as it happens) was Greydon Boddington at Bamford.

Total bag.

If you want a very safe, short YET proper HVS then try Butcher Crack on Stanage - really really good. 2 hard moves and brilliant gear (take a hex 7)
Gordon Stainforth - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to blanchie14c:
> (In reply to Gordon Stainforth)
> [...]
>
> If we are going on a road trip to Wales after the Peak then I'll thrown Sectre on the Grochan in the ring, a long route where you don't need the grunt of the grit HVS's, 4 lovely pitches with good belays and good gear.

I don't get this - this thread is meant to be about one's first HVS, and EG on the Wastad was my first. Actually, I had never been to the Peak District at that point. Even to walk. First trip to the Peak was in spring 1969, and my first leading was in N Wales in the wonderful summer of 68.

That top chimney-crack on Spectre (which we also did in the summer of 68) was not easy to protect. There was just one chockstone that was so deep and big that I had to unknot and reknot a tape sling round it, and then just go for the top, with no jamming skills whatever. Desperate.
Simon Caldwell - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Wilbur:
> It's insanely run out even with modern gear

No it's not!
Si dH - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Toreador:
I agree with Wilbur. I found one small, pretty poor micro in about 10-15 metres of climbing after joining it from Extraction. My mate found the same when he led it as the Fang an hour earlier. If its not insanely run-out, then its certainly hard to find the gear even for experienced E2 leaders. Either that, or we went the wrong way to get the gear - I seem to remember thinking there was more than one line you could take.
Pierre Maxted - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
Bengal Buttress at the Roaches after doing the direct start to Tennis Shoe (VS-ish) the weekend before as a warm-up - easy moves, no gear.
John_Hat - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to djelkin1992:
> (In reply to Paul Hy) Sunset Slab at froggat. Amazing run out to the finish. well worth the journey

A female friend of mine did that as her first ever lead outdoors. It was kind of my fault, but in my defence I thought she was an experienced leader when she asked for a suggestion of a good lead.

Luckily she waltzed up it... otherwise I could have been feeling somewhat guilty.
wilkie14c - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Ah cross wires Gordon, that was your first HVS then. Spectre's jamming style crack is easy enough with modern hexes and cams now, it was my first mountain/mulit pitch HVS but not my first HVS, I can't remember what that was, something minor on grit probably
climbingpixie - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to John_Hat:

> A female friend of mine did that as her first ever lead outdoors. It was kind of my fault, but in my defence I thought she was an experienced leader when she asked for a suggestion of a good lead.

Why would you suggest it as a good lead though? It's a great solo but I can't for the life of me understand why anyone would take gear and a rope on it.
harold walmsley - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
My first current HVS was Monolith Crack at Shepherds Crag. At the time it was my 1st VS. My first current grit HVS was Sunset Slab, again at the time it was my 1st grit VS. Sadly I can't remember what was my 1st limestone VS although Central Buttress at Avon was a very early one and might have been the 1st. If so I think it completes the set.

I think the common factor is that I wasn't very strong so the first routes of a grade had to be the bold ones and these are the ones that have now been upgraded.
harold walmsley - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
Strangely the first route I led that was graded HVS at the time of the ascent was Yellow Slab on Scafell East. Possibly easier than some of the previous, albeit bigger.
Bulls Crack - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to n-stacey:
> (In reply to Paul Hy) Peapod on Curbar.

Respect
Gordon Stainforth - on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to n-stacey)
> [...]
>
> Respect

My feelings exactly. Mind you it's got a little bit harder with wear, but not much. Fantastic pitch.

ads.ukclimbing.com
Simon Caldwell - on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to Si dH:
Well when I led it years ago I thought it was reasonably protected, certaqinly better than MVS 4a implies. I climbed itb again lasdt month (seconding) and again there was sufficient gear - bold but no more than a 2 or 3 metres between placements.
A load of photos starting at
http://climbing.me.uk/Patterdale0312/Sunday/slides/P1040019.html
you can make out the gear in many of them. Only shows the first few metres of pitch 2, but 3 placements within about 4 metres.
Paul Hy - on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Well guys, thanks for all your replys and suggestions. I've got 30 of your suggested routes on my list, so it looks like i've a very busy year!! all i need now is a bit of dry weather.
riff156 - on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
Hi ya my first hvs was knights move at burbage north,

worth checking out well protected and good holds
good luck dude
Duncan Bourne - on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
My first HVS was "Libra" HVS 4c at the Roaches not big on gear at the top but reasonably safe.
Blue Straggler - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
> (In reply to blanchie14c)
> [...]
>
> I don't get this - this thread is meant to be about one's first HVS

From the OP: "what was your first grit HVS"
teflonden - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Zapple 1991 ( direct 5b ) Happy days.Scared the crap out of me! Spent the next 10 or so years leading as my first in the year just to see if I was still fit.....Havent climbed in several years,cant do it now, fat unfit and knackered.....must get back up there though!
teflonpete - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Right Hand Twin at Bamford was my first. A bit of well protected grunting then a delicate traverse with bugger all gear and groundfall potential.
The following day I led 3PS, Tody's and soloed Sunset slab. All soft routes at the grade, if not particularly safe. I'm crap at climbing proper well protected grit HVS though, being a crackophobic ponce. :0)
Dave 88 - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

My first on grit was Lyons Corner House Direct at Millstone. I'd recommend it to anyone as a first HVS; you won't pump out, there's good gear, great situation, long enough to really get into it and fair at the grade without being soft or a horror show! Unfortunately, one of the starting golds has come off making the start feel tough and run-out, but just press on, it comes together soon enough. Stick to the arÍte as much as possible for the best experience, but you can deviate right slightly and still claim the route, if the arete gets too tough.

Don't do Chequers Crack at Froggatt!

Great North Road would be amazing, but personally I would be way too intimidated as my first HVS. You'd be on top of the world if you got it though.
Dave 88 - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to Dave 88:

*starting HOLDS. No gold on it unfortunately, although there was a DMM wire out right that you might be able to grab!
valentinesbabe - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
> all i need now is a bit of dry weather.

Amen for that! Roaches looks good this morning!
oooeese - on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Tody's wall at Froggatt. Not too bad at all.

First and only, soon afterwards I took a whipper off Chequers.. if that counts
Offwidth - on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to oooeese:

Queersville...I'd led quite a few before but to me the 'HVS' bit was only meaningful if you onsighted the route. I'd only met the guy belaying me that day and never seen him belay before so I was oddly very confident.

In those days our club had a rule that significant ascents (including winter) required stripping off and having a photo taken from behind with biceps flexed. Hence I apologise again to the hundreds of climbers and ramblers on top of Stanage who had to view such a thing.
lummox - on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: hmm, August Arete at Stanage I think. Felt quite hard because it was warm and I didn't fancy falling off much...
Jon Stewart - on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to lummox:
> (In reply to Paul Hy) hmm, August Arete at Stanage I think. Felt quite hard because it was warm and I didn't fancy falling off much...

It is hard if you can't reach the break. I can though, it's piss!
staceyjg - on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:

Tower Face at Stanage! Nice route!
Cake - on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
Rusty Wall and Rugosity Wall at Stanage. Both have hard starts and get lots easier. One of them has a scary top - Rusty Wall I think. Supposedly 5c starts. I still haven't led above 5c!

To help consolidate at VS, The File, Higgar is highly recommended, as are Hawks Nest, Froggat and Obscenity, Burbage. Wonderful and difficult routes
ElvisLeg - on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: I have never managed to conquer any of the following but tried and failed very safely so would recommend;

1. Toady's Wall (You just kind of get tired and come down)
2. Avalanche Wall (Search for 'Blood on the Rocks Climbing' on YouTube to see what happens)
3. Red Rose Speedway at SY - not grit but akin to 1.

Until then, VS it is for me...!
JimboWizbo - on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy:
First was Llech (HVS 5b) by accident.
First intentional lead was Portfolio (HVS 5b) at Windgather (one move wonder with good gear)
Then the sloth (HVS 5a) at the roaches which was fantastic. Got it second go due to fail.
drewish on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to Paul Hy: Tody's Wall - Froggat. Insecure move protected by huge cam at neck height... brilliant

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