/ NEW ARTICLE: Destination Guide: Saint Leger, France

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UKC Articles - on 21 Apr 2012
Dougal Taverner all guns blazing on the shortish, but power-endurance 8a of Hilti Blues, 4 kbThe wonderful limestone valley of Saint Léger is home to hundreds of quality sport routes.

This article gives us more information on when to go and where to stay on our visit to this classic French venue.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4574

Twigger on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

How about taking this article down too?
Robbie_Phillips - on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: I love St Leger! Went there for a few days last September, really amazing!
jon on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to Twigger:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> How about taking this article down too?

What does that mean?
AJM - on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

Surprised (or not I suppose, depending on my cynicism) that the nice new photo topo local guide (with the updated supplement for the new sector, plus a lot more info than Haute Provence on what the routes are like ie "bouldery into a resistance section" etc which is a feature I quite like in helping pick routes) didn't get a mention - if nothing else it would add to the info to detail the easiest place to pick it up in the near vicinity. It will contribute towards the crag development as well, and make you less unpopular with the locals who put up the "topo vampire" sign (is that still there?) at the start of the walkin.

Ace crag, can't wait to go back!
abarro81 - on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> photo topo local guide (with the updated supplement for the new sector, plus a lot more info than Haute Provence on what the routes are like ie "bouldery into a resistance section" etc which is a feature I quite like in helping pick routes)

I really liked that about the local guide - good for picking routes of your desired style. Not climbed at the new sector but it looks totally amazing!
Frogger - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:


Does anyone have a link to somewhere you can get hold of the local guide?
jon on 24 Apr 2012
Climbapedia - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to Frogger:

Or here: http://www.topostation.com/fr/d/escalades-autour-du-ventoux_298.html

And if you go the the gite near the parking area (La Bergerie des Salamandres) and show you have a copy of the local guide they will give you the updates for the new sectors.

http://www.climbapedia.com/en/business/la-bergerie-des-salamandres/
Climbapedia - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:

'Topo Varpire' signs have all gone! Shame really as the picture of the man legging it with bags of cash always made me laugh.
Twigger on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to jon:

There was a photo about topo vampires (as mentioned) that I commented on as it mentioned Rockfax. It was then removed and I though UKC were responsible, but that wasn't the case, and I posted in protest.

Anyway, I shall make my point here instead. AJM, funny you say that about the local guide. The topo vampire sign moaned about the fact that funding for equipping the crags comes from the sale of local guide books, and that books by Rockfax, Jingo Shitly and other tourists reduce this fund - rightly so. I found the timing of this article very poignant as there was also a front page article on how the UK Bolt Fund was doing, and drumming up support of this.

I would like to know if Rockfax donate any of the sales of their foreign guidebooks to local drillers?

Don't get me wrong, I love Rockfax guides (I own several) but if I ever get the urge to clip bolts abroad, I might consider buying the local guide instead. I also understand that making these guidebooks is a labour of love, but poking your finger in other people's pies just seems rude...even if it is a Tarte Tatin!
In reply to Twigger:

Without wishing to open a whole can of worms again, can I refer you to this thread - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=431533

There is a piece written by Adrian linked to at the top which has now gone since we changed the web site. I will try and find it and repost it on the Rockfax site.

Alan
jon on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to Twigger:

Your sentence made no sense without that explanation.

Since you mention the local guide...

Half the year I live about 40 minutes from St Léger and climb there quite a lot and use both the local guide and the RockFax. I bought the local one mainly to support that bolt fund - please note, it's not a 'local' fund - the money goes to the FFME and is used for a variety of things, only one of which is supplying equipment to equippers. I certainly didn't buy it to find my way around the crag as it unfortunately falls short of this basic requirement due to its bizarre layout.

It's been said above that the local guide includes << a lot more info than Haute Provence on what the routes are like ie "bouldery into a resistance section" >> 'A lot more' is an exageration. At most there are half a dozen words or so, sometimes accurate, sometimes not - for example, there's one 6c that is apparently 'très agréable pour la chauffe', but which had Twid grabbing quickdraws - even when warmed up - last year. Local knowledge at its best, eh?

Climbapedia - on 25 Apr 2012
In reply to Twigger:

I also live nearby and feel there is a place for both guidebooks and the whole 'funds for bolting' over here can be very misleading.

Last time I was down there I had a local ask me where he could buy a copy of the Rockfax as he was so impressed with it!

My advice would be for people to use the Rockfax to plan their trip then buy the local guidebook when they get to a region (if it is of decent quality and you want to personally contribute to the bolting).

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