/ NEWS: LIVE VIDEO: Shauna Coxsey In World Cup Final - Tonight

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UKC News - on 22 Apr 2012
Shauna Coxsey competing in the Chongqing round of the Bouldering World Cup 2012, 3 kbBritish climber Shauna Coxsey has qualified for the finals at the Bouldering World Cup in Slovenia today.
Shauna has qualified in second place with only Austrian Anna Stoehr scoring higher than her. In the men's comp, the highest placed Brit was Dave Barrans in 17th place.
Full qualifying results...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67066
becauseitsthere - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Anyone got the feed ?
j_duds - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to becauseitsthere:
no, seems not to connect :(
jackappleby - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News: nope, cut out as soon as climbing was about to happen.
loundsy - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to jackappleby:
not working for us either :(
puppythedog on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News: Ditto
andy farnell - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News: Same here. Gutted.

Andy F
pffft - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News: I have been watching for the last 20 minutes or so. Does work
cha1n on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to pffft:

Can you paste the link in from the mini window that opens please?
becauseitsthere - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to becauseitsthere:

Kept refreshing and eventually got it.
siwid - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News: working for me too now, keep trying folks!
siwid - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News: Shauna hasn't climbed yet, the link that worked for me was just www.ifsc.tv
Mick r - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News:

What's the score?
cha1n on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Yes, they're having database issues though. The recommendation to constantly refresh worked! Cheers.
siwid - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to UKC News: Shauna just flashed her first problem
Rich D - on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to siwid: working now
In reply to prinkipas:

Shauna flashed problem 2 and is now in the lead with Anna Stohr.

Connection keeps dropping though.

Alan

Now finished.

Shauna was second to Mina Marokvic. Anna Stohr third.

Brilliant effort!

Alan
Graeme Alderson on 22 Apr 2012
In reply to Alan James - UKC and UKH: Awesome effort by Shauna today (and also last week in China). But I must ask the question of how much support she is given by our National Federation ie the BMC.

We had 9 climbers representing GBR in this event, how much support did they recieve from the BMC?
switch - on 23 Apr 2012
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

Awesome performance Shauna!


Graeme, if you must ask the question, it would be better to start a separate thread (although you probably already know the answer anyway). Which budget would you like to be reduced, in order to put more into supporting competitors? Who do you feel is currently being unfairly lavished with cash?
john arran - on 23 Apr 2012
In reply to switch:

First of all that was yet another fantastic result by Shauna, who seems to have stepped up several levels in a very short time and who must be a genuine inspiration to all of the other young competitors who may be struggling to believe that international success is genuinely achievable.

On the support issue, it's a long time since I was involved with competition administration so I have no idea of the current situation details, but...

The logic which says that gaining increased funding for one thing means taking funding away from another is often a long way from the actual reality. There usually isn't a fixed-size funding pot, but rather a variable potential amount depending on the arguments, the petitioning and the nous of those seeking government funds.

Of course virtually none of us would like to see inspiring competition climbers like Shauna better supported at the expense of other vital work the BMC does, but that doesn't necessarily mean there may not be ways to achieve both.
BMC Office - on 23 Apr 2012 - www.thebmc.co.uk
In reply to john arran:

Congratualtions to Shauna for an amazing result this weekend - I have never seen anyone read problems as well as she does first time - phenomenal!

On the subject of funding, unfortunately the GB Climbing Team recieve absolutely no funding from the government, as all of the BMC's current government funding comes from Sport England who support grass roots, mass participation sport and do not support elite level team sport. This area is covered by UK Sport and in the current run up to London 2012, they will not support any non-Olympic sport.

So currently all of the teams funding comes from the BMC budget and sponsors which I have been working my backside off in the last couple of months to try and increase with quite good success so far. In the next month or so, I hope to have confirmed that the teams budget has been more than doubled for 2012 with some exciting sponsorship partnerships. So watch this space for more info. on the teams new sponsors in the near future. This extra funding will hopefully give the teams an added boost to do well this year and in the furture.

Hopefully in Sept. 2013 we will find out whether competition climbing will become an Olympic sport, and if successful this will open doors to UK Sport funding and bigger potential sponsors that will help the teams in their Olympic dreams.

If anyone else has any questions on this subject I would be happy to answer either on this thread or rob@thebmc.co.uk

Cheers

Rob
Comps & Walls Officer
joe_alexander - on 23 Apr 2012
In reply to BMC Office: As an aside, was there any issue raise with the use of the holds out right on M1 whilst climbing W3 (I think) by Mina Markovic. She was look strong and climbing really well but I was unsure of the problem had been set with this in mind.

What would be the normal process if it was felt she gained an unfair advantage from using this hold?

Well done to all the climbers
In reply to joe_alexander:

The taping was a little ambiguous on that problem but she would have still won without that top counting.
BMC Office - on 23 Apr 2012 - www.thebmc.co.uk
In reply to joe_alexander: I think if there was any issue with illegal holds being used then there would have been appeals from all the teams involved, so I dont think there was any issue there.
Iain McKenzie - on 23 Apr 2012
In reply to joe_alexander:
> (In reply to BMC Office) As an aside, was there any issue raise with the use of the holds out right on M1 whilst climbing W3 (I think) by Mina Markovic. She was look strong and climbing really well but I was unsure of the problem had been set with this in mind.
>

I was sent 3 messages on Twitter regarding this and spoke directly to a IFSC Official who confirmed that "it was not out of bounds and the Black line was not continuous" so it was raised..

It wouldn't have made any change to the final result which was and is excellent!

joe_alexander - on 23 Apr 2012
In reply to Iain McKenzie: Thats what I though, I was unsure of the ruling. Great result, good comp, just a little disapointed we wont get a uk round this year (feel spoilt having been to the last 2 at cliffhanger)

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