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Topic - 2 person glacier travel ropework

RyanOsborne - on 24 Apr 2012
Apologies if this has been covered before, I can't find a definitive answer anywhere.

I'm heading to the Alps this summer as a two person team. I've been reading up on glacier rope work and crevasse rescue for two people, and there seems to be a consensus that with only one person catching a crevasse fall, it is a good idea to knot the rope. I've seen diagrams stipulating that for a team of two, spaced 15-20m apart, about 5-8 knots is about right.

It seems that traditional methods of getting someone out of a crevasse (prussiking up the rope or a z-haul system) become very cumbersome when you introduce knots tied in the rope.

Would a better option be to tie the knots at a closer distance (say 1-1.5m) so that the person in the crevasse could use them to climb back out to the surface, instead of using prussiks? i.e. clip a sling to the knot tied above you, step up into the sling, clip your harness to the knot, then repeat.

This is just an idea, and I'm happy to be shot down if it's unsafe.

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