/ Placing climbing gear in an artificial environment.

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Ben0591 - on 24 Apr 2012
I am currently studying at Bangor university and am proposing a study examining the effects o cold on climbing specific dexterity. However i need a test that involves placing gear or another fiddly climbing action that can be performed in a laboratory.

Is there anything out there for gear placing practice or something similar?

Thanks
Mr Fuller on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to cosworth: Is climbing-specific dexterity any different to any other type of dexterity? Could you not just test participant's doing fiddly tasks like making a mechano model? Alternatively, you could get them to tie knots with differing thicknesses of cord, from say 10 mm to 2 mm. That any good, or does it have to be to do with placing gear and the effect of gloves on this?
davidbeynon - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to cosworth:

I know The Edge in Sheffield had a wall that was set up for placing trad gear. Not been there for a while though, so I have no idea if it is still there.

Scarab9 - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to cosworth:

there's some walls that have bits you can place gear in, but don't know how you'd then control the temperature. You'll probably have to construct something simple in a room which you can control temp in...which will be easier than constructing temp regulation around something to place gear in!
Ben0591 - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to Mr Fuller: i have several dexterity tests to perform already, but need a climbing specific test to make the study relevant to climbing. The knot tying idea could work.
Jenny C on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to cosworth: You can buy holds specifically designed to hold trad gear - perhaps buy a few and stick them in your lab at different heights/angles.
jkarran - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to cosworth:

Smash a couple of paving slabs up then glue/screw them to a sheet of plywood. Have your participants place gear in it.

jk
Ben0591 - on 24 Apr 2012
In reply to Jenny C: Would you know of any sites i could buy these from?

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