/ NEW ARTICLE: Movement Improvement
"For many the greatest satisfaction in their climbing comes from that elusive feeling of moving smoothly and lightly across difficult terrain. But when searching for improvement, it is all too easy to focus on the task of increasing strength and fitness and hope that good technique will somehow happen unprompted given sufficient mileage..."
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4383
Thanks for the that. One of the most useful articles I've read. Never thought of it like that before.
That's definitely not the crux of Bloodhound!!
Good to see you're getting the message out there John.
John really knows his theory ( as you can see from the article ) but is also a very good practical coach with an excellent manner and coaching style. If you're anywhere near the Lakes book him and improve your climbing.
I am glad things are going well and i hope to have a session with you at Kendal around the end of June when i'm back from Spain. I am sure bad habits have crept back in.
Very interesting, thank you! My movement is probably rubbish and blighted by a lof those problems you mention. Will think of some the tips you mention more often (e.g. the overgripping, openhanding etc)
Just got one question, how is it that the best I have usually climbed is after some long sustained, e,g 6 weeks trips where I was climbing constantly and at the end it just felt effortless? I never thought of movement or anything (I am not the most nimble), but the best I have always climbed is when I am very fit and strong. Surely that must count for something? Just wondering...
As the climber pictured on Bloodhound, I can tell you that I deffinatly found that section to be the crux. Thanks again for the great photo John.
I went to John for some coaching earlier this year, I have been climbing for nearly 30 years and have a recurrent dodgy elbow (only ever left, never right) which I suspected may be caused by bad technique / movement patterns.
Physio would sort the flareups but did nothing to address the underlying cause, so it would go away for a while and then return.
The session with John was really useful, he's an excellent coach, and gave me loads of useful pointers to improve my technique and avoid further injury.
In my situation I now have 30 years worth of bad engrams to unlearn, which is really hard work. So I would say to younger climbers who are thinking of getting some coaching "do it now, don't leave it as long as I did" It's much easier to develop good habits in the first place, than to un-learn bad ones!
It was the crux for me too!
Also the closer you get to your 'fitness ceiling', the greater the risk of injuries, so you can end up with the injuries of pro's but without the impressive grades if you train hard but climb inefficiently.
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