/ Cams, which make/model & from which store for best bang for

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mikehike on 28 Apr 2012
Im considering getting 6 cams. DMM 4CU'S
Should I get one of each size or double up on some sizes that may be required more often on a route.

JB seems to be best price
http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/special-offers/climbing-equipment/rock-protection.html

Routes would be low grade Northumberland Yorkshire Lakes crags and some multipitch classics in the lakes.

CurlyStevo - on 29 Apr 2012
In reply to mikehike:
> Im considering getting 6 cams. DMM 4CU'S
> Should I get one of each size or double up on some sizes that may be required more often on a route.
>
> JB seems to be best price
> http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/special-offers/climbing-equipment/rock-protection.html
>
> Routes would be low grade Northumberland Yorkshire Lakes crags and some multipitch classics in the lakes.

don't double up on sizes, the few times I've needed this I've borrowed a few spares off a mate before starting the climb. better to cover more range.
Theeni - on 29 Apr 2012
In reply to mikehike:

There is loads of information on this forum about people's differing opinions on cams. Personally I have a set of 4CUs up to 3.5 and they work for me. Like any thing else you need a spread, don't double up on any sizes yet, wait until you have a full set and then I wouldn't double up in that same style rather I would look at buying a different set instead. So to the point. If you are buying 6 in total then buy 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3 and 3.5. These will give you the greatest range and later you can look down into the smaller sizes.

As for where to buy, you clearly have the Internet so look for some deals!
CurlyStevo - on 29 Apr 2012
In reply to mikehike:
> Im considering getting 6 cams. DMM 4CU'S
> Should I get one of each size or double up on some sizes that may be required more often on a route.
>
> JB seems to be best price
> http://www.joe-brown.com/outdoor-equipment/special-offers/climbing-equipment/rock-protection.html
>
> Routes would be low grade Northumberland Yorkshire Lakes crags and some multipitch classics in the lakes.

id probably get half sizes starting at 0.5 in the long run you'll prolly want a 0 and a 3.5. for easy to intermediate grit routes you may find a 3.5 more usefully than a 0.5 whilst lakes will likely be the reverse. normally a hex will go in where a 3.5 cam will anyway.
54ms - on 29 Apr 2012
In reply to mikehike:

3 for 80 on V12 at the moment

www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1115
Merlin - on 29 Apr 2012
In reply to mikehike:

When friends were fusion welding my WC Friends to crags at a horrifyingly expensive rate of routes, I replaced them all with a set of 4CUs for the very reason that they are cheap to replace if lost again. However, the reduced price compared with other units can be directly attributed to their lack in quality (smoothness of the cramming action, they tend to be a snappy), although they are quite light so if mtn routes are you thing they should do the trick.
54ms - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to mikehike:

Out of interest has anyone used the Climbing Technology ones on the Jo Brown link?
The Ex-Engineer - on 30 Apr 2012
In reply to mikehike: In sizes 1 through to 3, DMM 4CUs are absolutely excellent and offer superb value.

The twin stem design is at its best in this size range, making 4CUs in these sizes pretty much the lightest cams available and still easily some of the best. As such, provided you generally get on with the trigger mechanism (some people don't) then the 4CU offer you link to definitely provide the most 'bang for your buck'. Also 4CUs offer sizes 1.25 and 1.75 which are great as it means you can buy them rather than needing to 'double up'.

However, in the smallest and largest sizes, the intrinsic limitations of the twin stem design mean that dedicated micro-cams are MUCH better at size 0.5 and below and at 3.5 & 4, single stems designs are more 'solid', flexing less whilst you place them and can be lighter as well. The issue with smaller cams is vastly more important - I very rapidly sold my small 4CUs and switched to Wild Country Zero cams but I happily kept hold of my larger 4CUs for many year as the better (and lighter) alternative of DMM Dragons then didn't exist.

HTH
mikehike on 01 May 2012
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Cheers guys for the advice.

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