UKC

UKC fit club week 267

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 Keendan 29 Apr 2012
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (266) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=502905&v=1#x6845823

Posters (30):

AJM – Good work on the 7b. It must have been refreshing to laugh at your old beta and apply some more experience this time round. Your pyramid is looking great.
Grubes – Don’t worry too much. I’ve gone to comps and felt like I’ve forgotten how to climb. Doesn’t mean you’ve got any worse. Have a great time in Font.
Andy – Quiet week but sounds more than enough for maintenance.
Richardh – Shame about the weather. Hope your back recovers.
Sankey – Fitness must be hard with so much travelling. Anyway Turkey should be awesome.
NMN – Solid week mate
Ian Bell – Good week. Julie Ocean will still be there next time! Enjoy Font
Biscuit – First confirmed 7b, nice! Be careful about shifting fat in “4 days”. It’s got to be a sustainable goal over time.
Leon – That’s a good lot of training. Don’t be afraid to take another rest day if your body needs it.
GordyB – Nice mix with the intervals in there as well. Good luck in your race!
Mattrm – Good that you’re getting back into it. Hopefully the start of some big things, (like HVS/E1)
Joughton – Fantastic work on the comp! You do lose a lot of recruitment of strength doing routes, but I’m sure you’ll get it back when you need to.
IainRUK – Well done gain on the Marathon. 800m swim in North Wales sounds gopping!
Mrchewey – I think slate is really cool. If you can get your foot really high and crimp really hard you’re sorted. Hope you some fitness in again.
Si_dH – Good week and I’m sure you can build on the confidence of skipping the last clip (as long as the staff don’t mind)
Eagle River – Sounds good despite the weather. Well done on Tomahawk.
Chris05 – Your BM session sounds really strong. 1.5kg assistance is not far off!
Nomics4Sale – Nice week. Hope the weather allows you to do the C Ridge as that would be awesome.
Ali – Great week for fitness. Good effort getting out running the day after MTBing
Hokkyokusei – Solid week
Kevster – Great work on 7b. Also surprised by how many 7s you get on in a session.
Seankenny – Shame about the weather, still well done on 6b+ OS
Liam M – Good mileage. Sounds like you’re well capable of 90min
Richard Popp – Great variety. How was the check up?
Mark Torrance - Strong Performance on Wed
Ayuplas – You got a lot done, good work. Just keep climbing.
Jgustafsson – Well done on the race, that’s a good time
Quiddity – Hope you get an 8a soon ...and get a video of the process? :P
Stone_Donkey – The weather had a big effect on UKC fit club this week!
Murd – Sounds like a good trip in general. Hope you secure some strength gains in the next couple of weeks.
 
OP Keendan 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

UKC Fit Club motivation

If you've been to the Tower in Leicester, you've probably met Rich Winters.

And you may or may not know quite how strong this man is.

Here is one of his training videos that I'm amazed aren't posted as frequently as Dan Osman's speed climb.

Enjoy (and if you're not suitably impressed, search for his other videos too)

vimeo.com/22333696
 Kevster 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan,
Yeah, had a bash at quite a few routes at the reach the other week, I don't usually go so mad, but wanted to try for the onsight on each. Working them comes next time. Though I bet I could get them all clean in on go if i got motivated and felt fresh.

This week though, what a disaster!

Did maybe 5 routes all week, no bouldering and no outside. Motivational depression with the local wall, just to often there on the same routes and nothing I haven't done before.
Need to up the game, as I'm off to france in a few weeks time clipping bolts. Excitement there!!


Cheers, kev
 AJM 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan.

First week in the new job done. More hours, so less time/inclination to get stuff done (longer commute and more hours means more time out of the home in general) - a readjustment phase I guess. Mutterings about weekend working are in the air too, so it's possible I'll not have as much time for climbing as I ad hoped, still, it gives me the option for more holidays later on in the year, and the weather doesn't make me feel like I'm missing so much right now!

Anyway, Tuesday I did a fingerboard session. Good session, good finger workout. Still can't quite hang those middle 2 pockets since the injury - I've been doing back 3 left and middle 2 right combo instead.

Wednesday I went to TCA. Fingers took a while to warm up, but in the end I did a bunch of reds and oranges. Felt a bit low on power, managed some good fingery stuff though and plugged away at the steep stuff.

Saturday I went to Brean. Cold and windy. Still, did the 6c twice (albeit with a rest first go to rewarm fingers) to warm up. Put the clips into Tide Rising (7b+), climbed like a donkey first go. Second go I worked out the easy way of doing a move I'd been struggling on through incompetence, and found a far better way of doing the top section, avoiding the dynamic-when-tired move into a mono. Linked the crux section too. Got on redpoint, but my skin was really really sore - I don't think it deals so well with the cold/damp, I think it's a bit less pliable and so becomes more tender on sharp holds. Linked to the bottom of the crux but had to dog the top - too much pain. Dd manage to get the move into the sidepull pretty much static, which is the first of the two hard moves. Will have to go back on a slightly warmer day and see whether it feels as sharp, and also see whether the rest is actually much use - I seemed to find it fiddly to get out of, so by the time I was back on sequence I'm not sure it had given me much benefit. Still, good progress, felt stronger on the crux than I did when I tried it briefly in Jan/Feb.

Going to try a fingerboard session later - the weather outside is horrible and so grand plans for lots of organising/shopping/etc and a wall trip have gradually shrunk to "leave the house as little as possible"

Not a bad week really. Hopefully as I get more used to the work routine I'll be able to do more after work, and if the weather ever gets better I might be able to get some evenings in too....
 JayK 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

M- A rare monday night chilled bouldering session.
T- Nothing
W- 200core/100antaganist
T- Nothing
F- Nothing
S- Intense trainig session. Boulder warm up. Campus rungs/lock off training/antaganist/200core.
S- Rest
 JayK 29 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:

Have you done Chulilla AJM?
 Sankey 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Yep, travelling plays havoc with any fitness plan.

Tried to have a busy week to shock the system back into life ahead of Turkey (Depart on Tuesday). Managed to run my standard 4.5 mile route for the first time this year too, knee was a little painful afterwards, but is nearly there...

M: 30 mins exercise bike
T: Bell Hagg
W: Foundry (most level 1 problems)
T: 30 mins exercise bike
F:
S: Ran 4.5 miles
S: Climbing Works


STG: Sport climbing Turkey (no goal set due to injury, mileage + fun!)
MTG: Miles in legs + easy trad ahead of attempt on Skye Ridge + Dolomites/Alps trip
LTG: Sport 6c, boulder V5 + < 50 min 10 k
 Ian Bell 29 Apr 2012
Hi all

Quick one from me this time. Nothing this week - in San Francisco for work but sadly too busy to get in any climbing. Next week maybe get in one wall session then Font Sat - Tues.
 AJM 29 Apr 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

No - tried it in Jan, made ok progress, but I injured the exact fingers (left hand middle 2) that I was putting in both the pockets so haven't been back on it.....
 JayK 29 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:

Balls. What about El Chocco? I found that went pretty easily with some good beta. No nasty pockets on that as far as I can remember. Just a boulder problem crux.

Prisoner of Conscience is another 7b+ I think. Start of that was pretty stiff I can remember when I was trying MBK.
 AJM 29 Apr 2012
In reply to JimmyKay:

Not tried - should do some point. Brean's one of those places I go to intermittently, especially over the summer, so I've never got into that many projects there - I've completed remarkably few routes at the crag!

PoC i've not tried - not that psyched, looks very thin crux then very easy, quite unbalanced, but I could be more tempted by the prisoner of bullworker link which probably makes it a bit more balanced by throwing in a harder top............
 biscuit 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan.

Fat loss plan was built in to work. I knew they would be hard, long days out so i just took a normal amount of food and i've dropped from 13% body fat to 12%, which is nice. I aim to stabilise this though and maybe leave it there for the foreseeable.

M- Work with an after work climb
T - Work with no after work climb :0(
W - Work with no after work climb :0( and 3 hrs of dancing :0)
T - Early start after late night dancing :0( Via ferrata and home to bed
F - Nothing - elbows and rain :0(
S - Nothing - elbows and rain :0(
S - Elbow rehab and stretching

Lots of easy climbing with work during the week. 10 routes up to grade 5 soloed. About the same number up to 6b lead normally for clients to top rope. Elbows sore due to lots of belaying, rope coiling and particularly jumaring next to clients learning to lead. Need to practise my technique again i think, too much pulling and not enough stepping up.

After work climbing was good. Seconded a 2 pitch 6c that Silvi ran together into 60 m of awesomness. We were strapped for time and she was shouting at me to get a move on on 'such an easy climb'. It was quite surprising how fast you can get up routes even when you are making slight mistakes and still not fall off. Anyway they felt easy and i learnt more abut the go for it attitude and what it can get you.

I then on-sighted a technical 6c+ and top roped a 7b with the most footless and fingery sequence i have ever come across at the top. I swear the wall was blank. One rest but got it done with lots of beta. The wall was vertical grey limestone with intrusions of sandstone in it. It looks the most crumbly friable stuff from the bottom but was providing the majority of the decent holds and was very positive and grippy. Very cool stuff.

Silvi is not telling me the grades of these routes before i do them which is proving quite interesting - in a good way. I guessed the 6c+ was a hard 6b+ so that's got to be good.

Goals re jigged:

New pyramid for 7b+

7b+ 0/1
7b 1/2
7a+ 3/4
7a 12/8

STG - 4 weeks

On-sight 7a
RP 7a+ 2nd go -Commando Julay @ Cauche. Had 1 TR on it so i'm going to ab down and put clips in and then lead it.

MTG - 8 weeks

Onsight another 7a - i want to keep my on-sighting up
RP another 2 or 3 7a+'s. This will take me over my pyramid amount but i feel i need more experience at this level.
RP 7b - busy few weeks ?

LTG - 16 weeks

Try to consolidate 7a on-sighting.
RP another 7b - again i want a more broad base to my pyramid.
RP 7b+ I have chosen Rasca y Pica at Cauche. Powerful start into a crap rest then funky technical fingery moves to the top. It's local i've been on it and it's a line i loved as soon as i saw it. I had to rest 4 times on TR though so it'll be hard work.

RP Cenizo (7c) in 2012

So i need to sort my elbows out and get some pump training in.

On a personal note it's been said before but it's been really great to see people at all levels of climbing and running really putting it in of late. Keep it up people !
 JayK 29 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:

I found the hardest move on that link the boulder problem actually linking the two together. Pretty awesome climb that though. I like the Bullworker crux. The actual Bullworker route is a bit crap as well though being 1 move wonder.
 hokkyokusei 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

m: Cycling 5.67 km, 5.56 km
t: Cycling 5.58 km, 3.37 km
Trail running 5.45 km, 5.24 km
w: Road Running 5.17 km
t: Cycling 5.58 km, 5.49 km
Trail running 5.04 km
f: Cycling 5.57 km, 6.42 km
s: Road Running 5km (23:48 new PB celebrated)
s:

Really pleased that I kept my motivation up this week despite getting soaked several times cyclin/running this week. The icing on the cake was a new PB at the parkrun on Saturday morning. Celebrated with a pub crawl around Skipton that probably undid much of this week's good work!
 seankenny 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan, sterling work.

STG: Rehab finger.
M/LTGs: 7a+, E3, El Cap.

M: Rest
T: 2.15m run but with some hill reps.
W: Wall, 8 routes up to 6b, some back-to-back. Approx 75m climbing.
T: Nothing.
F: Nothing.
S: 5 routes up to 6b. Laps on autobelay: two sets of 6a+ up, 5 down x 3. Approx 180m climbing.
S: Rain, felt really tired, stayed at home.

Funny week this week. I started a new job/contract on Tuesday so that's been extremely tiring - lots of new names to remember, new jargon and procedures to learn, new office routine to get my head around. So quite chuffed to get some stuff done and not surprised I feel a bit wrecked today.

My number one priority at the moment is to fix my tweaky finger (big one, left hand). So trying to get lots of mileage on relatively easy stuff and do plenty of ice treatment. Hopefully I'll be better in a few weeks and have built up some good fitness for the summer trad climbing (this is made easier by the total non-appearance of summer so far). I'm also aware of the need to get some running and basic fitness to help me with big walling in Yosemite in the autumn, so I'm trying to get as many runs in as possible.


 Si dH 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Cheers Dan. Quiet week this week, I've been on a course and needed to be in the office in the evenings afterwards, so not had much time outside work. Also they gave us lunch every day so Ive been eating far too much.

Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 3**
- Tick off a good list of E2s including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon and Scoop Wall**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others on limestone **none yet**
- A goal to be set for summer trad trip - not sure where it'll be yet (I'd love to have a crack at Foil)
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (8*7a, 4*7a+, 2*7b, 1*7b+) **if I take the lower grades that some controversial routes get, this means I need 1*7b and 1*7b+**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - see below

Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **need 4*7a+, 3*7b, 2*7b+ and 1*7c**

Long term goals (2013):
- Tick 7c in France or Spain
- Multiple grit and limestone E3s


M: nothing
T: Alter Rock half bouldering / half routes. Quite a good session. Managed to tick the 7a I had been struggling on last week - pleased as it's really hard (ie, not 7a).
W: nothing
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Poor session, did all but two of the new problems but they weren't very good (or numerous) and I wasn't very psyched.
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: Routes at Alter Rock. Fairly short session before closing but was ok, got some good exercise in. Some good new routes. Onsighted a 6c+ and fell from the last move twice on another (the second time my fingers were on the finishing jug when my foot went, grr)

Hoping the weather improves next week!
 NMN 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Daniel.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time.
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt.
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).

MTG: Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time.
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
High Peak Marathon

It was difficult to get out this week due to working away.

M - 4.35m treadmill, 0ft.
T - 6.44m treadmill, 0ft (working away).
W - working away.
T - working away.
F - working away.
S - 8.31m hill walk, 1,076ft (arranged ages ago with a mate who doesn't run or climb).
S - 8.01m trail run, 338ft.
 mattrm 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for doing the stats Dan.

Continuous - Shoulder rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 11st 12lbs, 6a onsight
MTG - Lead HVS, 11st 9lbs
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 7lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 12lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - Still no idea (seriously considering buying some new scales)

M - Rest
T - 2 mile run
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Core workout

Shockingly, I spent most of the week doing DIY. However the front room and guest room are now painted fully. Some more building work needs doing and then we're having a mate who's a decorator to do the hallway. I'll really have to get the fingerboard sorted out. 12 days to the ultra. I'm gonna die on it, however I've recced sections of the course and I know about 2/3rds of the course very well anyway. Which is good, but also means I know how awful the final climb up Cribyn (my favourite local hill) is going to be. Got the racing weight quick start book and I'll be getting on that once I get home, ready for the alps in July.

I guess the recommendation for a fingerboard is to buy a beastmaker right?

I'm hoping to do a few more VS after the ultra and then, yeah, I'll be getting on some HVS for sure. Doubt I'll see E1 this year, but never say never.
 AJM 29 Apr 2012
In reply to mattrm:

> I guess the recommendation for a fingerboard is to buy a beastmaker right?

It's a common recommendation these days - wooden finger boards are nice and finger friendly which means you can train on them more regularly without shredding your tips.

> I'm hoping to do a few more VS after the ultra and then, yeah, I'll be getting on some HVS for sure. Doubt I'll see E1 this year, but never say never.

Thats the kind of negative self-talk we don't want on Fit Club - aim high
 andy 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: As expected, not much this week (but this should change this week as i've finished work for a bit).

M: nothing
T: lumpy ride into work, flat way home
W: spin class
T: beer
F: hangover
S: nothing
S: rather breezy, rather damp 6.5m fell run

 leon 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
STG(current week): Another 25 falls(failed)
MTG(current phasee): Get on a 6c or e2 even if I fail(tick(ish))
LTG(2012): 1*V8, 2*V7, 4*V6, 8*V5(1). Something on the main cliff @ Gogarth. Lead a 6c
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls: 20(45)
Fat %: 11.0
Focus: LE (3/3)

Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Weights (half session). Core.
Wed: Falling practice(15). Bouldering (~17 problems to V7).
Thu: Arc(30 mins). Repeaters.
Fri: Out drinking.
Sat: Horseshoe(routes to 6a+ & 5 falls). Core
Sun: ARC. 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V2). Repeaters.

Quite a poor week from a training perspectice. My fault for not keeping an eye on what I had done & what I needed to do which meant I ended-up just doing what I wanted.

Falling practice on Wed was pretty good. Didn't get the volume of falls in I wanted to but was happy with the size of some of them. The bouldering was more of a fun session.

Horseshoe was kind of good. I intended getting on a 7a lead as second route of the day and surprised myself by actually doing this. It was a route I TRd twice last year. Got to the crux & managed what I think is the hardest move but could not remember the rest of the sequence so fell (tiny fall but at least I didn't say "take"). Tried to suss the sequence a few times but ended up moving to top rope as I was scared of making the move & winding up with a bigger fall. Realize now I should have delibarately taken larger falls, might be in the bag now if I'd done that. On TR I figured out the sequence but I think it could be improved, no further RP attemp. Later in the day I tried to onsight a 6b but failed after the 1st bolt, on some hard, steep bridging moves (real weakness of mine). Fell again on the same moves on top-rope. Got told exactly what to do & managed it (still v hard) & finished without falling. Down side of today was low volume & not getting up the 6b(I see 6b as being my onsight level). Good point was trying to lead my first 7a on which I noticed significant improvements in finger strength and foot precision compared to last years attempts.

Would really like to continue sport climbing but I rekon as the weather improves my partners are going to insist on trad.

STG: Get-up a 6c or e2 (even dogged).
MTG: Get-up a 6c or e2 (even dogged).
 Mark Torrance 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

S: [29.5]
M: [26] 4.5 miles road run, easy
T: [26]
W: [20.2] 4.2 miles road run with 2 at 7:00/m
T: [20.2]
F: [20.2] 3.5 miles road run, easy
S: [14.2]
S: [40.4] Greater Manchester Marathon: wet, cold, strong headwinds in some of the second half. 10k, 42mins; 1/2 1:31; 20 miles, 1:2?; then it all went very, very badly wrong. Initial pace was quite quick (for me) but felt comfortable. There was a nasty short section of muddy track with deep puddles (!) at 14 or 15 miles which froze my legs and with that and the headwinds I couldn't generate any warmth after that - it took me 3 hours to stop shivering afterwards. However that isn't really an excuse - the 300 or so people that passed me in the last six miles seemed to cope ok.

Ho hum. I don't think I like marathons.
 AJM 29 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:

> Going to try a fingerboard session later

Turned out not too bad:
- Some weights complex and light weights and core to warm up, plus a few easy hangs.
- Then pullups on the large pockets 3x6x+5kg
- Then tried some hangs on some freshly chalked 35s - getting closer!
- 3 finger open handed max hangs on the little rails.
- Front 2 max hangs on the middle rung pockets.
- Middle 2 - definitely getting better, can hang for about 5 secs without pain now. But I'm sticking mainly to back 3 on the left and middle 2 on the right for the mean time.

Anyone got views on comparative effectiveness of weighted pullups vs offset pullups for boosting pullup (and lockoff, although they won't be trained as effectively by straight pullup exercises I appreciate) strength?
OP Keendan 29 Apr 2012

>
> Anyone got views on comparative effectiveness of weighted pullups vs offset pullups for boosting pullup (and lockoff, although they won't be trained as effectively by straight pullup exercises I appreciate) strength?

I prefer offset pull ups personally, maybe due to their convenience. They really work the "pushing down" strength as well which is often neglected in training.

Maybe Chris05 will have something to say as he seems pretty close to a one armer (and of course Jimmykay who can already do one)

 mattrm 29 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:

I think it'd have to be a wooden board, as I can't see the missus allowing a plastic board. Still not quite decided where to put it. The kitchen, porch and utility room are all possibilities.

As for E1, well maybe. There's a nice E1 on Lewes Castle on the Gower, Seth, which is a lovely crack line. It's apparently a (very) safe route but a bit of a sandbag, so I'm rather tempted to try that. I'll have to see if I can find someone who leads E1/2 so I can second them a bit to get some miles on harder climbs. I still wouldn't say I'm a VS leader really, just not confident at the grade. However despite having took a few trad lead falls, I'm still not keen to seek them out. Especially after I decked out on a Severe last year.

If you want to hear some negative self talk, you should listen to me about the Ultra. Still I found out that the cutoff is 14 hours, I'm sure I could even walk 40 miles in 14 hours.
 AJM 29 Apr 2012
In reply to mattrm:

Put the board where you'll enjoy using it. Seriously - I used to have to hang my rock rings outside off a fire escape and never used the damned things - walking round the car park between sets is no fun. Somewhere a decent temperature where you can do it without shutting yourself off completely from the rest of the house/family will make you a lot more keen to use it. If it were me I'd press hard for kitchen out of those choices.

If I ever get free time I'm keen on a revisit to the Gower some point, Pembroke too, and I've got tons to do in the Wye so I'll try and give you a shout sometime if you want peoplemtomtry Es with.

In reply to Daniel Heath:

Fair point about the Push down stuff. I might throw some offset stuff in next session, try and work on it. I find campus boards nails for the pulling through once you are offset (ie 1-3 or 1-4 is no problem, but then going on from 3-4 feels desperate), and steep bouldering in that style the same, so writing this does make me think I should hit the beast straight on and start doing offset work in earnest, aim for the greater specificity.
OP Keendan 29 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:

Yeah it's nice to do a few (3 sets of 6-8 each arm for me) at the end of the session to squeeze some strength out.

My friend did quite well by doing offset pull ups on the campus board holding 1 and 3 or 1 and 4. Admittedly with a tiny range of motion but he did improve.
 Steve John B 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan. Returning to Fit Club after a few weeks off.

M - 30 min run & weights session
T
W
T - 4.5 mile run (forgot watch!) and weights
F
S
S

"Rest" on the other days.
 J B Oughton 29 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan, was happy enough with second I guess, try for first next year! and you're spot on about my strength at the moment, which is why I've spent all this week bouldering without doing any routes whatsoever... took some advice from a Ste Mac article saying something along the lines of 'power can be better than endurance because when you're a beast moves feel so easy you don't get pumped - plus some extra power always come in handy'. Been working too hard on route endurance recently so I plan to do another week of power then some P.E for a couple of weeks followded by routes again.

Mon - Revision
Tue - Bouldering - odd session, felt really weak but really good at the same time - I'd arrive at the top hold pumped out my mind but very smoothly...
Wed - Circuits of five problems above V5 without rest inbetween problems, followed by a rest of 3 mins, and repeat ten times. Then just general bouldering.
Thurs - rest
Fri - attended a wedding
Sat - recovered from wedding
Sun - bouldering at the Hangar - stuff there is hard! I think I wasn't used to the style of the setters so found myself struggling on the easier problems at the start of the session but improved later on - very tired now!

Cheers, Jake
 Eagle River 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Daniel.

STG (May 2012): Climb at Kilnsey and tick 1x7b+
MTG (end of 2012): Get on a 7c, (Tremelo, New Dawn or something at Kilnsey)

Bit of a quiet week for me as I was really busy at work.

Wed: Indoor routes, they've not changed the steep walls at stockport for a while now so there are only 3 routes I've not done. An absolutely nails 7c that I really didn't get on with, struggled with individual moves. Another 7c that might go with a bit of work and a really hard 7b+ that feels harder than the 7c. So I got on the "possibly do-able" 7c on wed but was going backwards on it pretty quick as it is really really crimpy.

Sat: Really lethargic routes session indoors. Gave blood on friday night and ended up not sleeping properly (as I drank too much water following giving blood) and just felt weak all day.

We're off to a different wall this week (MCC) so that should mix things up a bit. Gutted that the yorks limestone is wet again which might ruin the chances for my STG especially as I'm away on non-climbing business two weekends in May. We'll see how it goes.
 GordyB 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Mon: rest
Tuesday: Local 5K race - 21.57 ( course was apparently 5.2k so about an extra 30-40seconds, so delighted with time, 1 min up on last years best)
Wednesday: rest
Thursday: monster hill reps 4x1.3k 120m ascent. Total 9 miles/500m
Fri/sat: rest & family stuff
Sun: Ben Cruachan circuit, 6.5miles/1300m (first 1100 in 1h 14min)

Taper this week towards Stuc a Chroin (14mile/5000'1) hill race on Saturday
 Nomics4sale 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan, morning all.

STG (summer): onsight 6c+, lead HVS, boulder V5 x 4 in a session at boulderUK
MTG (autumn): RP 7a+ or 7B, lead E1, boulder V6 at boulderUK


Mon: 5 mile local trail/road run
Tues: BoulderUK, flashed up to V4, one worked V5
Wed: 10 mile walk up and around St Sunday Crag, including Pinnacle Ridge scramble
Thurs: Clitheroe bouldering, 13 problems
Fri: nowt
Sat: Giggleswick South, onsight up to 6b+, RP 6c.
Sun: Short bouldering session at boulderUK, repeating problems from Tuesday. Then 7.5 mile road run.

The 6c on Saturday was a bit of a debacle. At the crux I went up direct from an undercut to a small crimp, then from that to an even smaller crimp. Used that to clip the bolt but was too wasted to put the rope in so grabbed the quickdraw. Then I had a 2 more goes using the direct sequence but kept failing at the same place. Finally got the tick using a big hold far right from the undercut, to another big hold even further right. This sequence was much easier (maybe 6b?) and felt completely off route. Not convinced I did the route at the grade but hey life's too short to get too upset about it (although clearly I am a *bit* miffed!).

My partner and I decided to sack off the Cuillin Ridge attempt for May. Long story.

New goals now, thought I'd try and up my game at BoulderUK as i've been trucking along at the same level there now for a while. I'm a bit unfit at the moment but it shouldn't take too long to get back up to ticking a new V5 every session, hopefully flashing the odd one. And if I can flash a V5 then I should be able to work a V6? Would be ace if I can manage that as I've never even got off the ground on one before now.

And I've put in anouther 7a+ or 7b RP goal for sport climbing. I'd go for a 7b, but I'm not sure I can manage it quickly enough. A 7b would probably take me at least 5 or 6 sessions (maybe more!?!) and as I rarely go to the same crag frequently enough to be able to sort out and remember a decent sequence I'm thinking I'll probably be more likely to succeed on a hopefully quicker RP of a 7a+.





chris05 30 Apr 2012
> I prefer offset pull ups personally, maybe due to their convenience. They really work the "pushing down" strength as well which is often neglected in training.
>
> Maybe Chris05 will have something to say as he seems pretty close to a one armer (and of course Jimmykay who can already do one)

My aim of a one-armer is not something I am focusing on too much as I don't think it will do much for my climbing. Its really a bit of a party trick! I avoid doing many pull-ups as they aggravate my elbows, although I have a feeling that one-ermer's (especially the eccentric part) may help elbow problems. I am hoping it will come through doing assisted one-armers and one arm locks with added weight.
chris05 30 Apr 2012
Many thanks again Daniel.

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: BM: max hangs (Front 2 +11kg and one arm hangs with added weight. F.L progs (improving, can now manage one leg fully straight), theraband & eccentric curls
T: Bouldering at the Churnet, managed a new 6C but nothing harder
W: rest
T: BM: max hangs (Front 2 slopey pockets with one arm and the mid pockets with the other, one arm hangs with added weight, one arm pull-ups & managed to hang the lower monos with middle fingers), theraband, eccentric curls & 4m run
F: 4.8m run
S: Bouldering at the Churnet - made some progress on a couple of 7's but not a great session
S: rest - at work

Training is going well. Elbows have been doing quite well recently but right ring finger is still not good. Still need to actually climb a few things to have any chance of meeting my goals.
 Quiddity 30 Apr 2012
In reply to AJM:

> Fair point about the Push down stuff. I might throw some offset stuff in next session, try and work on it.

I agree with Dan, offsets FTW. Much more specific than weighted pull ups and in my experience transfer quite directly into better lock off strength and range. The 'push down' aspect of them with the trailing arm also transfers quite directly into the pull-through aspect of campussing (ie. from 1-3 to -5)

harsh on the shoulders and elbows though - ease in slowly.

> I find campus boards nails for the pulling through once you are offset (ie 1-3 or 1-4 is no problem, but then going on from 3-4 feels desperate),

I found there is definitely a trick to this. It's all in the trailing arm - the intuitive thing to do is to focus on the upper arm as that is the one that is doing the pulling - but actually if you focus your attention on really creating a powerful dynamic flick down with the trailing arm, the upper arm mostly looks after itself. As above, I found offsets good for building strength in the relevant ranges of the movement.
chris05 30 Apr 2012
> [...]
>
> My aim of a one-armer is not something I am focusing on too much as I don't think it will do much for my climbing. Its really a bit of a party trick! I avoid doing many pull-ups as they aggravate my elbows, although I have a feeling that one-ermer's (especially the eccentric part) may help elbow problems. I am hoping it will come through doing assisted one-armers and one arm locks with added weight.

I meant to add that I'm sure offset pull-ups may be more relevant for climbing but I haven't found them so useful for the OAP as I can easily do one with only the little finger of one hand as assistance. Irrelevant to anyone who is trying to actually improve their climbing...
 Quiddity 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Cheers Dan. I am psyched to get on it, just need to wait for it to stop raining!

To reply to AJM from last week - I think the most important factors in the decision to go for FT over anything in Yorkshire is it brings more factors within my control. It's easier for us to get to, the crag has more routes that partners are psyched to do and it is less at the mercy of the weather/conditions. I still massively want to do Raindogs but it'll keep until the autumn. And I'm no Kilnsey expert but it surely would be a bold move to commit to a siege there given the state of April and the long term forecast...?

STG
8a Redpoint

Goals for 2012
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:26
Complete 8a Pyramid (done: 4x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+ need: 1x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Raindogs

M:
T: Castle, bouldering. Ticked pink V5 on mezz and grey and orange V4s in pen.
W: Castle, bouldering. beige V5 on mezz, red v5 in pen. working on beige (v6) and blue (v7)
T: Castle, leading. Working on yellow 7b+.
F:
S: Biscuit Factory. Bouldering, cleaned up most of the low hanging fruit on the comp wall. Offset pull ups on beastmakers. Threshold bouldering, mostly working one or two move power problems - sort of thing I usually avoid like the plague.
S: Castle - strength/power session. Warmed up to V5. Campus - first session for a while, quite promising. XL (stuck 1-L4-6 but not quite 1-R4-6) L (1-3-5 both sides, 1-3-5-6 ok, getting back towards 1-3-5-7) and M (close to 1-3-5 both sides). Threshold boulder on wave. Weights (shoulder rehab) and fingerboard - 1 arm hangs - am now able to hang a 2nd joint edge with F3 on RH (but not LH).
 AJM 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Quiddity:

Cheers for thoughts on pullups (Dan and Chris too!) - will give myself a beasting some time this week see how I get on.

Fair point on weather comments - gambling for a cool dry summer for FT VS a nice hot one for Kilnsey. Sadly I think it'll be cool and wet based on current performance!
 Liam M 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers, I'm hoping so.

4 days cycle commute, plus
Mon: Steady 18k mixed terrain run with 40min swim in the middle.
Tue: Easy 9k run
Wed: Easy 21k run
Thu: Track session, 2x8x400m @c91s per lap, 45s rest. Pissing it down, and tough session.
Fri: Rest
Sat: Hawkshead Trail Race. c17k and quite a bit of climb. 1.27.
Sun: 15k wander around Grasmere/Rydal. Meant to be Fairfield Horseshoe, but got part way up toward Heron Crag and couldn't keep feet on ground!

Good week, with some decent distance and good fast sessions. I ran well at Hawkshead, especially on the descents where I managed to find an often unknown confidence in my footing.

I expect much the same this week coming up. I'm just hoping the weather is a bit less soggy - it's sufferable but not pleasant to train in.
 Liam M 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Mark Torrance: Well done on sticking Manchester out. Quite a few friends did it and the conditions seem to be the main talking point. One 'hundred marathon club' friend was recalling it as some of the worst conditions she's raced in, so I think if you try another one you'd be unlucky to hit another day like yesterday.
 Mark Torrance 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Liam M:

I don't think I really did stick it out, though. The only reason I kept going (in the "moving forward" sense) for the last six miles is that I had to get back to the start. If I could have avoided the finishing funnel I would have done.
 Ali 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers Dan.

M – nothing (work)
T – cycled into work and home (5.5miles each way) + session at the Biscuit Factory. Warmed up then mainly focused on Blues (V2-V3, but some hard ones!) and Greens (V3-V5?). Finished trying to do circuits on the less steep circuit board, but think it still may be too steep for me – shooting pains in forearms made me stop!
W – nothing (work)
T – nothing (work)
F – nothing
S – long session at Biscuit Factory – did some good Greens, Reds which I might not have tried otherwise and had a go at a couple of the easier problems on the competition wall. Was great to have Quiddity/Curious Yellow there which def helped with motivation!
S – stretching + half hour walk to get some fresh air once it finally stopped raining…

Big exercise at work during the week largely scuppered training plans, but feel like I might be getting back on track on the climbing training – just need to keep it up now!
 mrchewy 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Daniel.

Led my first HS 4c! Didn't read the guidebook or watch anyone on it and had to ponder the crux a while but it felt okay, especially in my head. Happy days!

Taken to running to the shops, up hills and any chance I get, so there's a lot of 'un-focused' training going on.

M - Arse whupped by a 5 that I really don't like, left arm got pumped too easily on it and couldn't work out why. Led everything else easily before that, so left the wall pretty grumpy.
T - 2 mile run plus some other stuff inc 60 burpees. Calves were very tight.
W - Psyched myself for 'that' 5 again, breezed up to the crux and then had to wait whilst some guy was bashing around on the route next to it. Should of lowered off, as he was there a while. Left arm pumped again and stuffed me up. Angry with myself, dogged the route.
T - Finished work gone midnight, so nowt done properly.
F - Early start as gotta work on club hut in Wales. Must have ran up the steep hill to it 15 times or so and down numerous times.
S - Holyhead Mountain for the new members meet. Felt odd to not be the newbie but had a good days climbing and happy with the HS onsight. Stiff as a board later.
S - Went for a stroll round the Carnedd and up some little hill. Was grim weather.

Sacked off the burpee challenge as pretty sure it was pumping my calves and triceps, to point of not letting me train how I wanted. 7 weeks to ultra, so stupid challenges are out the window. All in all, ended the week's climbing feeling like I made progress, even tho most of the week I was frustrated.
Making the effort to run when I can and walk quick if not, is getting me into a better frame of mind as regards the ultra and must be adding up to a fair few miles. Almost over the aductor injury, still tight at times, however gotta push on now.
 Cyan 30 Apr 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for taking over Daniel

Goal Updates
Onsight 7a - tick
4x 7a+ O/S attempts - done (2x fail, 2x tick)

I've not posted for about a month - 2 and a bit weeks of Kalymnos and the surrounding work stress and tiredness. The slackness stops here! Kalymnos amazing, got a lot of great routes done despite some pretty mixed weather. RPing wasn't really working for me though and is going to be my main focus for a while now.

Mon - Rest.
Tues - Castle. Up to V4.
Wedns - Castle. Up to black.
Thurs - Castle. Up to black.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Biscuit Factory. Long session. 4x pink/green, lots of greens.
Sun - Castle. Short campus. Wave. Short fingerboard.

 jgustafsson 01 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Daniel,

Mon: Boulder. Working V7 and V9 without ticking. Laddering towards the end
Tue: Running: First track session. 4x800 (~2:50-3:00) w/ 400 rest + 4x400 (1:20-1:30) w/ 200 rest. 12km in total including run home.
Wed: 6km run to the wall. Went slow but a mistake -- legs completely shot after prev day. Some bouldering but bonked completely towards the end.
Thu: Bouldering, campusing
Fri: --
Sat: Running: first long run. 19km in 1:31:20. Did not mean to go quite as fast or as far, but I got excited. Felt surprisingly good. Boulder in the afternoon. Some progress on V7 on 45 board.
Sun: Boulder and some leading, but felt quite tired. Did one new V6. 8km slow run in the evening. HR never above 140, but still felt like I was going to pass out half-way through! Had a massive dinner.

Good volume week, though my climbing is probably suffering a bit at the hands of running. Did my first ever track session and really enjoyed the structured pain it offered. In anticipation of Brooklyn HM in three weeks I did my first long run. Felt easier than I thought, and made me somewhat ambitiously revise downwards my goal-time... sub 1:40 possible?

Goals:
Short-term: sub 43 min 10k in two weeks; sub 1:40 at Brooklyn HM in three weeks.
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (4/4); 7b+ (8/8).
 ayuplass 01 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Cheers to you and everyone else for the encouragement and support
Mon - gym. Kettle abs class and Kube class (functional circuits type stuff) 1 hr
Tues - rest, really feeling yesterday's classes
Weds - gym x-trainer, squat/curl/press combos, then intervals on rower
Thurs - leeds wall. Led - 4+, 5 OH, hard 5 that I dogged last week. Worked 5+ x2 that will go next time. 2nd 5+ OH. really good session again, my leading head seems to be coming back. It's good to have more routes that I'm able to lead instead of just one or two! Also noticed that my harness is getting much looser and a bit too big all of a sudden, yay
Fri - gym abs and Vipr classes 1 hr total
Sat - rest
Sun - kettle bells and abs at home

Another good week, feeling much fitter and stronger, noticing the difference in how I look too. I have lost a couple of pounds but it looks much more due to everything being redistributed and tightened up!
I have a 4 day weekend in Wales this weekend so I'm hoping to get lots of easy leading
milage in and get a good start to what is hopefully going to be a good season, weather gods permitting.
I'm also revisiting my trip diary as I now have the time to fit more climbing trips in due to being newly single. Is it bad that this makes me very happy? I definitely need to go out
with a climber next time
 Banned User 77 01 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thought I posted..

Anyway should have been a steady week.. but got carried away as just love being back..

m: 5.5 mile trail run. pm 9 mile road run.
t: 9 mile road run. 30 minute swim llyn padarn
w: 11.5 mile road run
t: 5.5 mile trail run. pm: 10 mile fell run glyders
f: 7.5 mile trail run cwm bychan
s: 15 mile fell run hebog > nantlle ridge from beddgel
s: 11.5 mile trail run gwydyr forest
OP Keendan 01 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Had a couple of colds this week, but recovered just enough for a couple of hard sessions.

M-
T-
W-AW Stoke Flashed a 7b, 7b+ and 7c in the cave
okay, so the grades are soft, but still the moves of the 7c were at my limit and it was very rewarding to pull it off. Exhausting session getting on every route in the cave.
T-Press ups
F-Woodie session but still sore
S-Milton Keynes. Somehow wrecked before I started (poor recovery from previous sessions due to cold). Onsighted 7a and got pumped doing lots of autobelays.
S-

Pembroke at the weekend. So psyched
 Tom Hutton 01 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: I'm back after all kinds of problems (as well as being away!)

Last week was a mixed bag - not worth reporting really. And have gained a few pounds as a result of forced rest...

So for this week

2 x 1/2 day hillwalks
2 x bike rides - mtb or road
1 x TT
2 x FB
1 x swim/short run (run together with swimming as use the Uni running track!)
1 x core/weights

Will obviously have to put some of them together to get through them all but will do best.

Weight - would like to see settle below 86kg this week (again!)

 mattrm 01 May 2012
In reply to AJM:

Solid advice. Thanks. I'm thinking of campaigning to have the porch as a mini gym. Otherwise, I'm putting it in the kitchen. I do all the cooking, so it's my kitchen basically

It'd be great to climb with you, so if you're over here, just let me know. Dunno if you've climbed there but Juniper Wall would be right up your alley I reckon.

If you want a bunch of wild 'psyche' predictions then the following are mine for the year:

Actually finish 40 mile ultra
Get a place for the OMM and finish in the top 50%
Do 85 mile ridgeway ultra in August
6c/7a redpoint (7a isn't that hard is it?)
6b onsight
Have fun in the alps!
 richardh 01 May 2012
In reply to mattrm:

ahem,

and now on the right week...

cheers Daniel,

the inundation continues, May can't be any worse can it?

Sunday: Wall, good session, not feeling particularly week for best part of 2/3 weeks off. decent range of 6c to 7b stuff.

was buoyed yesterday by the sight of some blue sky, but now raining again.
 AJM 01 May 2012
In reply to mattrm:
> It'd be great to climb with you, so if you're over here, just let me know. Dunno if you've climbed there but Juniper Wall would be right up your alley I reckon.

I'll do my best - I've got stuff I want to do, I just need to program my brain to think "Gower" when it comes to considering weekends away...!

> 6c/7a redpoint (7a isn't that hard is it?)

Depends how strong and fit you are I seem to remember you do a bit of bouldering outdoors, which gives you a good start!
 Stone_donkey 03 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Bit of Man-Flu this week so little expectations down at wall but actually went OK, a few 6as including one I hadn't tried before, then a 6a+ which stumped me a bit. Couldn't make much more progress on TR (so pleased it wasn't just head) til belay buddy showed me how to do move then all seemed more straightforward - one to go back to . Finished off on 6b that partner used to fly up - this time he couldn't even on TR but I managed clean after a couple of go's. Amazing what difference zero expectation can make. Stanage trip tomorrow cancelled - looks a bit damp and cold to be standing around feeling a bit sh*tty, so a bit grumpy
 Solsbury 04 May 2012
In reply to Daniel Heathifficult to focus last week, dont like not being able to get out on the rock, we had the foster children till friday which was exhausting, cancer cehck up clear-hooray big relief.

STG (April)-repeat/red-point 6c (tick) lead HVS
MTG (October) red-point 7a, lead E2 (would love to do Ahimsa but not sure how realistic that is)
7A 0/1, 6c+ 0/2, 6c 1/4, 6b+ 5/8
E3 0/1, E2 0/2, E1 0/4, HVS 0/8
LTG (April 2013) On-sight 7a, lead E4.

Need to sort my goals out, new short term goal is a "proper" 7a by the summer close of play at Cheddar-Shakin' like a leaf, Pirates of lamb leer or Chepito.

Almost a repeat of previous week-
M-Repeaters, Run.
T-Stretch, swim
W-TCA, circuits
T-Stretch, run
F-TCA, circuits, poor session.
S-Rest
Su-TCA, circuits.

Cheers Daniel

Rich

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