/ Civetta. Have I missed something?
I have also wondered that. I have an Italian friend who climbs on Civetta every year and has a project there with a stack of 7b ish pitches on top of each other. Perhaps the routes are too hard for 99% but not hard enough for the 1%. On a separate note, my friend recently told me that he is writing a guidebook so perhaps it will get more attention in near future.
The Philip-Flamm used to be one of the must do routes in the Alps. Four of us from Aberdeen went out specifically to do it in 1984, but it had lots of British ascents before that. I've done several other routes on the Civetta in the early 80s. Trouble is, the routes have loose sections and seem to have gone out of fashion. I think it's a great mountain.
I agree with Andy and it has some great southfacing routes,too. E.g. the Tissi Route - superb day out. Just not that popular (at least with Brits)
The climbing looked absolutely quality and hard as nails, and from what I can remember you're looking at a 2h hard walk in uphill to the NW face where Marmolada you can get climbing pretty quickly...
Andy's right, anyone 40 or over who has/had ambitions would know of the wall and it's routes. Many of the biographies from the 70/80s have an account of something, usually the Phillip/Flamm
The late Paul Nunn's account is 'interesting'
It's just not fashionable nowadays, and most Brit climbing focus lies elswhere.
What, you mean Chamonix?
> The Philip-Flamm used to be one of the must do routes in the Alps. Four of us from Aberdeen went out specifically to do it in 1984, but it had lots of British ascents before that. I've done several other routes on the Civetta in the early 80s. Trouble is, the routes have loose sections and seem to have gone out of fashion. I think it's a great mountain.
When I was out in Chamonix in 1969, Paul Nunn and Jack Street drove to the Civetta just for a few days to do the Phillipe Flamme and suceeded on an early UK ascent, then came back to Chamonix. It was certainly one of the sought sfter routes at the time.
Maybe 'cos that's what they do over there? It's easier to dip your bread into.
To be honest, I can't really remember. But I'm sure there's quite a bit of of British 5a. We aided one pitch which has been done free at a high grade. I may have pulled on the odd peg. I wrote the description down on paper to save the weight of a book. Only snag is that I forgot to write down where the route started, and the cliff is several km long. We went to the hut and asked the guardian where the Philip-Flamm was. He refused to tell us! Then I saw a postcard with the line drawn on. So I went up to the guardian and asked to buy a postcard. His face was a picture when he realised which one I wanted.
> What, you mean Chamonix?
i was thinking more of Spain ;-)
Joking aside I think for the huge majority of folks climbing now, doing something like the Phillip Flamm, or any other route on the Civetta, is so beyond their horizon that at best it would be esoteric.
Many would think it an odd name for a boulder problem.....
BITD, it would feature in magazines, was written up as a right of passage in bios from the 60/70s, and quite right. There was the standard Dollies tick list, The Pilastro, The Comici, The Cassins,
The Yellow Edge, etc, pretty much up at the top was the PF. It had real - deserved kudos.
It's a funny thing that while standards have nominally gone up, British ascents of something like this have probably gone down, which is a real shame. But, I guess that's just a reflection of climbing now. Who knows it may change..........
It would be a stunning trip.
I don't think so. But we did do some lovely slightly shorter routes, but still long
After a quick search it turns out that my friend has been busy indeed:
What a modest guy, he never mentioned any of that. Anyway, interesting thread and makes me even more excited about my trip this summer.
Has anyone here done the Cassin on Torre Trieste? Got recommended by a friend as an outstanding route.
This is a reasonably useful site...
You don't need to be strong (I never have been), just fit.
the cassin on torre trieste is very good route indeed, the hardest part is the start, it's the same as the carlesso. apart from the first 3-4 pitches, route finding isn't too difficult. the rock is good, in situ equipment ok. 2 ledges offer the possibility to bail.
the descent is quite long, the first abseils are easy to find, the last part is a bit tricky to reach the couloir taken on the approach.
Thanks for the information. All I got to do now is convince my partner this is a good idea:)
Elsewhere on the site
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
A fantastically versatile little pack; whether out running in the hills, hitting the trails on the bike or just running for the... Read more
Last year, Finn McCann wrote an article about climbing El Capitan with his terminally ill father Seamus, who had been... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more