/ Downturn Shoes

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
rockclick - on 01 May 2012
Looking to buy a more aggressive pair of shoes. Primarily for bouldering with a pretty hard sole and big downturn. Any suggestions? Looking to spend around 100. Climb around V5 if that helps with the suggestions.
Cheers
bouldery bits - on 01 May 2012
In reply to charliegarner:

5.10 Dragon.
highclimber - on 01 May 2012
In reply to charliegarner: ones that fit your feet
Jackwd - on 01 May 2012
In reply to charliegarner: Spend an extra 10 and get a pair of Solutions, go a fullsize down, can't go wrong. Almost.... but seriously good shoes!
Wide_Mouth_Frog - on 01 May 2012
In reply to bouldery bits:
> (In reply to charliegarner)
>
> 5.10 Dragon.

Not 5.10 Dragon
bouldery bits - on 01 May 2012
In reply to Wide_Mouth_Frog:
> (In reply to bouldery bits)
> [...]
>
> Not 5.10 Dragon

Hehehe.

On a serious note - get something that fits.
Have fun!
rockclick - on 01 May 2012
In reply to charliegarner: What about Shaman's?
Madden - on 01 May 2012
In reply to charliegarner: I personally have scarpa instincts. They're quite sensitive once they're worn in, and fit my feet like a glove. I've tried solutions (they feel amazing), but if you want something stiff, that's not the one to go for. Go for something that fits. Try shamans, i never have. I can confirm that anything that fits you well is probably quite good though.
Paul Twomey - on 02 May 2012
In reply to charliegarner:
The fit is more important than the brand or colour. Got to a specialist retailer and try on as many different types as possible.
jkarran - on 02 May 2012
In reply to charliegarner:

First and foremost you want shoes that fit. Secondly, do you actually need them? It's not a shoe style I've ever really got on with.

jk
mkean - on 02 May 2012
In reply to Madden:
I personally have scarpa instincts. They're quite sensitive once they're worn in, and fit my feet like a glove.

I've just tried to fit my feet into a glove, it wasn't easy. Maybe you need different rockshoes :-)

mandy - on 02 May 2012
In reply to mkean:
When I saw the title of this thread I thought it was going to be about appropriate footwear for the recession
Eagle River - on 02 May 2012
In reply to charliegarner:

Dragons are the original uber-downturned shoe and some argue the best. They fit the description you gave.

I can't get on with them as they give me a really painful hotspot in my big toe knuckle, as do the Evolv optimus prime.

For that reason I went with the Scarpa Instincts and really like them as they're quite comfortable, I belive the Evolv Shaman's are meant to be similarly comfortable.

So, to summarise, try on as many as possible as the fit is really subjective.
Madden - on 02 May 2012
In reply to mkean: I'm afraid to say, my dad was in fact a chimp, so gloves really are an option for my feet... :-|
CharlieMack - on 02 May 2012
In reply to charliegarner:

As many have said, get the one that fits best. I've finally got round to buying some Dragons, and well, they are amazing! Though i think that they, and the solutions are aimed at really small holds on really steep ground. Which is why i have waited until now to get some.

Up until now i have used Red Chilli Matadors, and they are pretty stiff, and fit my feet amazingly. I would highly recommend them. The rubber isn't the best. But until you are climbing like V10+ how much is a modicum more friction realistically going to make...

So in summary, get what fits best. I don't fit solutions at all sadly, but they look pretty decent!
Fraser on 03 May 2012
In reply to Jackwd:
> (In reply to charliegarner) Spend an extra 10 and get a pair of Solutions, go a fullsize down, can't go wrong. Almost.... but seriously good shoes!

Agree 100%. Best fitting shoes I've ever had.

Quiddity - on 03 May 2012
In reply to CharlieMack:

> As many have said, get the one that fits best. I've finally got round to buying some Dragons, and well, they are amazing! Though i think that they, and the solutions are aimed at really small holds on really steep ground. Which is why i have waited until now to get some.

Yep I also used to think Dragons were only for the steep stuff, but increasingly whenever I find myself needing to stand on something really really rubbish I keep coming back to them because of how much power they enable you to put through your big toe. IMHO When they wear in they soften up and become much more of a general purpose shoe.

For instance I was doing a route (limestone sport, natch) with a technical crux that was a dynamic cross-through and flicky unwind on a steep slab with crozzly flatties for hands and really polished smears for feet - ie. body position was really important to being able to stay on. I was trying and repeatedly failing wearing Anasazis. I tried it with Dragons, and I was amazed that the move felt so much better in them - smearing wasn't compromised nearly as much as I expected, and being able to pull with the toes made a huge amount of difference.

Downturned shoes just require a different technique or climbing style from flat shoes. Once you get used to applying it to vertical or less steep ground, the shoes become much more versatile.


As always, Dave Mac explains:

http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/review-vapour-velcros-and-how-to-use.html
unknownclimber6 - on 07 May 2012
i have seena lot of people asking do you really need them, in my opinion yes because i find althought you are climbing V5's this is a turning point where holds turn to smudges of paint and pinches are like plastered on pebbles also even juggier routes have a high incline and gettin the foot in a hold first time while hanging on upside down makes all the difference!

i done a V7 roof boulder at the weekend with a pair of shamans on and found my feet jus stuck to anything i touched and i could effortlessy place my toe in anything first time, which ment i wasnt thrashing around wasting all my energy then ...... later on i went back with my pontas and what a difference!!! first of all i didnt finish, i got too gassed :/ my feet kept slipping from roughly placed toe hooks because i was taking 3 and 4 attempts to place each time which was just sapping my energy! :(

if you want tech shoes go for it! they will help maybe not sooo much jus now but definetly later when you progress to harder problems! i suggest shamans because i have used them and they are an amazingly comfy tech shoe :O much comfier than my pontas, vantage and spirits and they are all - all rounders, also i just seen such a performance improvement!!

i have heard people raving about and a lot of people wearing dragons. i havent wore any so i cant comment but all i would say is get the best fit for your feet, get them as comfortable as they can be for tech shoes and dont go for looks or bright colours ( its also just embarassing when you have super cool looking shoes and cant get a V4 they some old dude comes over with his smshed up mythos and flashes it, effortlessly! lol).

good luck shoe hunting :)
HAPPY CLIMBING!

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.