/ NEWS: FRI NIGHT VID: Michele Caminati on Gritstone

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UKC News - on 04 May 2012
Michele Caminati on Master's Edge, 4 kbThis week's Friday Nighter is a couple of videos of Italian climber Michele Caminati.

Michele has been visiting the gritstone, and has repeated many hard routes and boulder problems...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67104

simes303 - on 05 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort on Master's Edge
nigel pearson - on 05 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:
Well done. Braille Trail always looks such an amazing route. Interestingly he did not seem to have to dyno the final move on Master's Edge like other climbers have. Is he taller or just has a different technique?
Si dH - on 05 May 2012
In reply to nigel pearson:
I think he does it the same way as others (certainly very similar to Richard Ekehead in Hard Grit) but just had more left in the tank and kept his feet on so pulled through virtually statically.
205Chris - on 05 May 2012
In reply to nigel pearson:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Interestingly he did not seem to have to dyno the final move on Master's Edge like other climbers have. Is he taller or just has a different technique?

I imagine it's more likely that Font 7A moves aren't going to feel hard when you're an 8C climbing wad.

Furanco C - on 06 May 2012
In reply to 205Chris: What insightful logic- Perhaps Kaluza Klein needs an upgrade to font 8c then?
JH74 - on 06 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Crap belaying at 4.25. Great climbing though...
Roy on 06 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Nice work
But what are the crash mats doing ( I know), get rid.

Appalling music on both vids. Whatís wrong with the natural sound as recorded on the day
Laurie Rogerson - on 06 May 2012
In reply to Roy:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>

>
> Appalling music on both vids. Whatís wrong with the natural sound as recorded on the day

I know, had to turn the sound off to watch it.

Great climbing though.
Paul B - on 06 May 2012
In reply to Roy: Maybe you want to read up on auto gain control and on board microphones for DSLRs, especially in wind. It'll make for some (fun) light reading.

All you'd hear is wind or hiss, and every now and again if you're lucky, really loud wind.
tspoon1981 on 06 May 2012
In reply to Paul B:
>
> All you'd hear is wind or hiss, and every now and again if you're lucky, really loud wind.

Sounds like you're describing the nocturnal noises of Ms Spoon.
Calder - on 07 May 2012
In reply to Roy:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Nice work
> But what are the crash mats doing ( I know), get rid.

Maybe the mats are because he's on holiday, and doesn't need to feel the need to prove anything to the likes of you. Come back when you've done it without.
Calder - on 07 May 2012
In reply to UKC News: Two really good, little vids these. Cheers.
Calder - on 07 May 2012
In reply to JH74:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Crap belaying at 4.25.

Eh? What do you expect him to do - catch him in his arms?
morpcat - on 07 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Yeah that's great but... What's he done on grit?
JH74 - on 07 May 2012
In reply to Calder:

That's funny. You must be switched on. Watch it again and answer your own question..
Roy on 07 May 2012
In reply to Calder:

It's a trad climb and should be done as such.
If you can't climb the lower section without the protection of mats then don't climb it.
No need to for the pre climb trip to Bensonís for Beds.

What's next. a bouncy castle over at Widdup Wall ?
Jon Read - on 07 May 2012
In reply to morpcat:
New here, huh?
Calder - on 07 May 2012
In reply to Roy: Sorry, didn't realise you made the rules.
Andrew Barker - on 07 May 2012
In reply to Roy:

Woop, woop, it's the sound of the pad police.

I usually leave the pads at home when I'm tradding but I'm not about to go preaching to other people about their climbing style.

It's all good fun as long as we remember to bow to the ethical purity and hardness of climbers past :)
ads.ukclimbing.com
Morgan P - on 07 May 2012
In reply to Roy: Doing a route well isn't proportional to how unsafe you are climbing. If he wants to climb with a pad at the bottom then go him, it doesn't detract from the climb it only means he'd rather not be out of action for a few months with a broken ankle.

Don't see the fuss about it. Why doesn't everyone solo everything if being unsafe is the only proper way to climb?
Simon - on 08 May 2012
In reply to UKC News:


Not really a tick for End of The Affair, the start is a little lower, but good effort on the ground ups...
JimboWizbo - on 08 May 2012
In reply to Roy: I'm guessing boulderers that use mats don't get the ticks either?
Toby Dunn - on 08 May 2012
In reply to Roy:
> It's a trad climb and should be done as such.
> If you can't climb the lower section without the protection of mats then don't climb it.
> No need to for the pre climb trip to Bensonís for Beds.
> What's next. a bouncy castle over at Widdup Wall ?

I would be interested to know how your frankly agressive cyber-attiude translates into your personal ethics at the crag.

Are you really the bastion of ethics which you'd like to impose on those more able and dedicated than yourself? If you are genuinely climbing in better style then Michele, and really challenging what you are capable of physically and mentally then I apologise and have some respect for you. If not, please keep your frankly unpleasant attitude to yourself.
Calder - on 08 May 2012
In reply to JH74:
> (In reply to Calder)
>
> That's funny. You must be switched on. Watch it again and answer your own question..

Well Michele's obviously unhurt, and happy enough with the guy that he's still belaying on his next go.
Peter Walker on 08 May 2012
In reply to Roy: Somebody more knowledgeable may correct me, but I suspect it might be the case that the only person to have done New Statesman without ANY sort of mattage is the first ascentionist. Does that render it unrepeated?
JH74 - on 08 May 2012
In reply to Calder:

Good on you. You're absolutely right, everything's great.
jacobjlloyd - on 08 May 2012
In reply to UKC News: Nobody cares what a load of bumbling scared pathetic climbers on a forum have to say about going trad climbing without pads. He is honest, in keeping with local ethics, not damaging anything... excellent form! Really enjoyed Michel's blog during his visit. Brilliant climber, having loads of fun!

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